David_Leech

Flooring pictures please

Recommended Posts

Flooring in my standard six isn't the best. Floor is painted plywood (black) with a ribbed rubber mat in the front. The rubber mat has just about had it but is good for a pattern. The rear is just plywood and it's cracked pretty bad, so it needs to be replaced. What does everyone else use?

 

Looking for ideas, authentic or not. I do want to stay period correct though. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The original floor in my '29 DA 6 was pine boards w/corrugated fasteners connecting them...front rubber mat was gone, but rear carpet still there....boards were in bad shape as roof had leaked, so replaced w/ rift cut oak boards, glued up together.

DSCN6093.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

My original 32 floors were plywood.  I used marine plywood of the same thickness, as marine plywood uses waterproof glue in its construction and will not delaminate when it gets wet.  My floorboards were painted black, with a rubber mat up front and carpet in back.

Edited by Taylormade (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1930 DC-8 floor boards are plywood too. Painted black now, probably c/o of a PO. I believe they were unfinished: not varnished or with other visible treatment.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Started pulling the floorboards out. I thought it was plywood, but is Infact T&G subfloor glued along its edges. Settled on the ¾ 6" boards as the replacement. I like all the metal plates on the floor that were hidden by the floor mat. I am going to repaint them black and secure them in with brass screws.

 

Should I just go with the natural Tung oil finish or should I stain them first? I am considering burning the pine first before oiling (testing on scrap). Maybe setting the first coat of Tung oil on fire? (Yes, out of the car?)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you want to avoid scuffing the wood, you’re going to have to go with carpet or a rubber pad.  My floorboards have wood extensions on the bottom outside edges to get them up to the correct height, and felt strips along the edges for sealing.  Just bare wood floors will turn the inside of your car into a giant sounding board.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My floorboards were never out of the car before I took it apart for restoration.  Areas covered by upholstery and seat sliders since new were painted black, so I think the factory painted them, at least on the 32 models.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Seat sliders? What luxury! My standard six front bench is fixed to the floor about 4" too close to the steering wheel.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have started fabrication with 3/4" glued pine panels. Actually slightly thicker than what came out. Fits perfectly. Will update with pictures once I have them roughed in

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, David_Leech said:

Have started fabrication with 3/4" glued pine panels. Actually slightly thicker than what came out. Fits perfectly. Will update with pictures once I have them roughed in

I have a heap of 5”x1”1/2 Oregon that I was thinking of using for my 27 floor. I was going to thickness it to the correct size and put a rebate on the edge and overlap it like that. Do you guys think that would be ok to use. I have about a 150 4foot lengths of it. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Matt 

         When I made the new floor boards for my Senior I used Kapur that I purchased from Bunnings The Toe board was originally ply wood so I reproduced it in 3/4 marine ply

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ron

The floor of my Senior is all pine boards, no plywood, and they are original. Your toe board of plywood must have been an Australian change in design.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you want to do it once use coated form plywood ( used in the concrete business,) has a moisture resistant coating as long as you paint the edges, with a good epoxy paint. dampness will not penetrate this plywood, and if you want to paint it that helps as well, it’s not cheap 4x8 sheet is around 80-100$ but it lasts, 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The touring body on my 2249 Senior was made in Adelaide by the Holden Body Building Co.From the looks of the old toe board that I replaced I am sure that it was original

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, Ron Lawson said:

Matt 

         When I made the new floor boards for my Senior I used Kapur that I purchased from Bunnings The Toe board was originally ply wood so I reproduced it in 3/4 marine ply

Thanks Ron I’ll check that out. 

My toe board in the 27 is definitely plywood and it’s from the states. It’s all delaminating. I’ll use ply on that for sure. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Ron Lawson said:

The touring body on my 2249 Senior was made in Adelaide by the Holden Body Building Co.From the looks of the old toe board that I replaced I am sure that it was original

 

My Oz boddied Tourer also had plywood toe board, I thought it was a dodgy replacement but maybe it was on from the start.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Just pulled the carpet up on mine and it looks to be 2 pieces of Oregon to me. One is 14” and the other is 6”. There is a quarter inch gap to the ground between them I can see. Would be hard pressed to get timber like that anymore. 

85EEBBA9-FB16-468E-87E0-1558752D220F.jpeg

Edited by Mattml430 (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
53 minutes ago, David_Leech said:

That vent is neat. Mine only has a metal cover over that cutout

That’s the rear heater I have to run some hose from the radiator to it. 

I think?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Mattml430 said:

Just pulled the carpet up on mine and it looks to be 2 pieces of Oregon to me. One is 14” and the other is 6”. There is a quarter inch gap to the ground between them I can see. Would be hard pressed to get timber like that anymore. 

85EEBBA9-FB16-468E-87E0-1558752D220F.jpeg

That floor looks to be in great shape!...and like you said where are you going to get solid wood in that width?...I'd just clean up, maybe repaint and reuse....I wish my floors had been that nice! The heater looks to be something that conected around the exhaust pipe rather than radiator's hot water for warmth. Probably an accessory, not sure that it came from factory...anyway, exhaust pipes rusted through and carbon monoxide entered car and you can imagine why they went out of style...that said, it's very cool and hard to find!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On mine, that heater is a solid cover over a humped crossmember.

 

Between rain and work, I haven't had a chance to work on my new floor. I'm now thinking of a dark stain. I still want to see the wood, so stain instead of paint

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Bob Zetnick said:

That floor looks to be in great shape!...and like you said where are you going to get solid wood in that width?...I'd just clean up, maybe repaint and reuse....I wish my floors had been that nice! The heater looks to be something that conected around the exhaust pipe rather than radiator's hot water for warmth. Probably an accessory, not sure that it came from factory...anyway, exhaust pipes rusted through and carbon monoxide entered car and you can imagine why they went out of style...that said, it's very cool and hard to find!

That makes more sense with the heater and would be easier to get it working. Could get ordinary though with an exhaust leak in the cabin. 

EF11530E-D03C-4AE7-8E38-54672E4129BE.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Change of direction on this project. What I thought was plywood is tongue and groove board and is likely original. I'm not happy with how my new floor is turning out. I'm going to restore the original floor. If I glue up the cracks and trim the rough edges I will be happy with it. I also keep flipping between putting carpet in or not

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

And this is why nothing ever gets finished and costs 4x what you anticipated. I'm likely going to change my mind on this again. I've made too many changes and compromises to what I wanted that it just isn't worth the effort anymore. Different species of wood, diffent joining, wrong tools, vision vs reality isn't coming true. I'm finding myself now wanting to paint the new floor black, so why not just repair the original one? 

Edited by David_Leech (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now