ADade Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 I'm starting a project to get my father-in-law's '18 Buick back on the road. The engine hasn't run in at least 50 years, but the car generally is in good shape having been stored in climate controlled, clean garages over the years. My father-in-law was a perfectionist restorer and this was his first project, followed by the following cars: '14 Buick, '31 Ford, '34 Packard twelve, '31 Packard, '08 Cadillac. The engine turns over smoothly with the plugs removed using the crank. I think I'll start in the back of the car with the fuel tank -- this will have to be cleaned out and I'll probably replace the fuel line, as it's most probably fouled from fuel sitting in it for so long. I'm also going to plan to get the radiator re-cored (any recommendation on somebody to do that?). The wood wheels seem to be in pretty good shape, but the tires are from the 1950, so they have to go. If anyone has interest in or experience with '18 Buicks, I'd love to hear from you -- I'll be looking for resources from engine to body etc. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Wiegand Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 I am curious as to why you would want to replace the radiator? Is it choked up to that point? I would think that a competent radiator shop should be able to flush and back-flush it out for you. Of course we don't know how the cooling system was stored all those years. This is a very nice looking Buick you have here. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADade Posted August 5, 2018 Author Share Posted August 5, 2018 I don't know it's choked up, but I have no idea what mixture of coolant was put in 50 years ago, but wanted to be ultra cautious. I guess it would be a good move to remove it and have it flushed and pressure tested, then decide on a course of action. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 I have had an '18 E-45 for over 50 years. Before anything I'd drop the pan and clean it out. The old oil may well be gunk and will not just flush out. . Clean the oil pump too. Since the engine will crank, that mmeans the water pump is free - which is good. Check to see if the valves open and close. I wouldnt worry about the radiator until after you give it a test start. You might check the radiator by just removing the hoses and see just how well the water will flow through it. The last thing I'd want to do is recore it if it is original. DO NOT pressure test it. Since it is a zero pressure system the pressure could well create leaks. Since the gas line is brass, there is a good chance that it is OK. Disconnect it and blow it out. If you are lucky, the tank is OK. Obviously, you'll have to clean out the carb and vacuum tank too. Good luck and keep us posted. These are easy cars to work on for the most part. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Wiegand Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 Don gave you about $3,000.00 worth of good advice about the radiator. When the radiator shop checked out the radiator on my 1916, he flushed it and back-flushed it twice and carefully checked it at about 1/4 pound. He told me that a non-pressurized system like these are should never be tested at more than about 4 ounces of pressure. The water just fell through it and he told me that it was solid and good to go. My car had sat for almost 40 years at the time I had this done. It shouldn't take a whole lot to get this car back on the road. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carmover Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 (edited) I don't know about the 1918 Buick radiator but my radiator on my 1925 Buick had to be recored and cost me $3000.00 and they had a 1 year waiting list so mine was out of the car for an entire year. That is a beautiful Roadster that you have there! Edited August 5, 2018 by carmover (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 If your father in law restored it in the 1950's I'd say his restoration job held up really well. It looks great! I have a 1918 but it's a rust bucket. This is how it looked when I got it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADade Posted August 6, 2018 Author Share Posted August 6, 2018 Boy you guys are terrific! Thanks for all the valuable advice and encouragement. I'm feeling very optimistic about this project. Don - I was planning to drain the oil and replace it, but your suggestion to drop the pan and physically clean it out makes a ton of sense. When I rotate the engine the valves appear to open and close appropriately, so I don't think there's anything to worry about there. Glad you told me about the unpressurized cooling system too -- I'd have screwed that up for sure. I've ordered a publications from BHA that I hope can help me avoid some of the potholes: Reference Book - Buick 1918 Four Cylinder Series - E-4-34, E-4-35, E-4-37, E-4 Delivery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 https://www.ebay.com/itm/192619488294?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 I'm selling a picture parts price guide for this car if you want one. They are awesome. Click above. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 (edited) Here is a link to some more options on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=1918+buick+manual&_sacat=0 If you want to talk, call me and I have a lot of information as I have a D-35 & an E-4 truck which has the same chassis. PM me with your information. If you have a particular literature question, I can scan it and email it to you. I can also talk to you about the other manuals for your car. Where are you located? Edited August 6, 2018 by Larry Schramm (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADade Posted August 6, 2018 Author Share Posted August 6, 2018 Boy you guys are terrific! Thanks for all the valuable advice and encouragement. I'm feeling very optimistic about this project. Don - I was planning to drain the oil and replace it, but your suggestion to drop the pan and physically clean it out makes a ton of sense. When I rotate the engine the valves appear to open and close appropriately, so I don't think there's anything to worry about there. Glad you told me about the unpressurized cooling system too -- I'd have screwed that up for sure. I've ordered a publications from BHA that I hope can help me avoid some of the potholes: Reference Book - Buick 1918 Four Cylinder Series - E-4-34, E-4-35, E-4-37, E-4 Delivery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADade Posted August 6, 2018 Author Share Posted August 6, 2018 Boy you guys are terrific! Thanks for all the valuable advice and encouragement. I'm feeling very optimistic about this project. Don - I was planning to drain the oil and replace it, but your suggestion to drop the pan and physically clean it out makes a ton of sense. When I rotate the engine the valves appear to open and close appropriately, so I don't think there's anything to worry about there. Glad you told me about the unpressurized cooling system too -- I'd have screwed that up for sure. I've ordered a publications from BHA that I hope can help me avoid some of the potholes: Reference Book - Buick 1918 Four Cylinder Series - E-4-34, E-4-35, E-4-37, E-4 Delivery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADade Posted August 6, 2018 Author Share Posted August 6, 2018 Got the oil drained and the pan off today. The oil was surprisingly liquid and dark amber color. The pan has about 3/8" of think gunk in the bottom, but again pretty good shape (see pictures) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 Looks good. You probably would have been OK, but it is very cheap insurance. I have seen more than one engine burned up because of gunk plugging the oil pickup screen. Now you know. All sounds OK. Does it still have the "mailbox" coil? If you fill the vacuum tank with gas, it might start. With water in it of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 If your car was restored in the 50s that explains the lack of asphalt in the oil pan. Oil was more highly refined in the 50's. My car sat since the 1920's and looks like they were still using Texas Tea that Uncle Jed got from shooting out some food. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C Carl Posted August 7, 2018 Share Posted August 7, 2018 Looking very good. You can and should use the best multi grade FULLY synthetic oil you can buy.'Could end up being one of the most economical decisions you can make regarding the operation of your car. Such a brash, categorical statement usually triggers contrary recommendations. Some variations include : "You might as well use the cheapest, lousiest oil you can get. Even that miserable non-detergent junk. It will be better than the BEST oil you could get way back when............". Well, O.K. It is indeed. But if the evolution of petrochemical engineering has achieved THAT, just imagine how much better the BEST oil today is than the worst. But, look. I may be preaching to the choir here. I am one of the earliest civilian converts to synthetic lubricants. The use of such saved one of my 500 cu in Cadillac engines at one point decades ago. It still runs fine today. I'll leave it at that for now. You may not need convincing as to the benefits of using the best. At least it is conceeded that FULLY synthetic oil is the best. The argument concerns whether using the best oil is warranted in a slow-reving low compression engine. It IS better, it IS better for your engine, just how MUCH better it is, is the question. I just like to use the very best lubricants. You know. Change oil once a year or so. Add a little here, a little there. One of the cheapest of all operating costs. Might save your engine some day. Might keep valves from sticking. You know. Silly, inconsequential things like that. I was going to write about checking your bearings since the pan is already off. My arthritic thumbs are suffering right now. They have been at it most if the day. Somebody else care to hold forth ? - Carl 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted August 7, 2018 Share Posted August 7, 2018 Very surprised by the lack of mouse nests in this car. What's your secret? Seems all I do is catch mice in my cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADade Posted August 7, 2018 Author Share Posted August 7, 2018 One at a time in reverse order: 1. Mouse nests? Morgan, the secret is a clean garage with frequent Orkin treatments. I'm pretty meticulous with my garage, was was my father-in-law, so the car has never been in a less than clean (some would say "anticeptic") environment. 2. Full synthitic oil? I'm on board with you, Carl. I have three other collector cars and one of the benefits I see is the use of the same oil for all. My big project every Fall is to change oil in all, so I follow your "change oil once a year" philosophy. 3. Don you'll have to excuse me, as I'm new to pre 1930's cars. What's a "mailbox coil"? I agree -- all this work is cheap insurance indeed, not to mention fun. Today my plan is to get the oil pan cleaned out completely, cut a gasket and get it put back on. That'll take most of the day what with running around, grandkids at the house, etc -- even that may be optimistic. I'll keep everyody advised of progress. I really do appreciate all your interest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADade Posted August 7, 2018 Author Share Posted August 7, 2018 Anybody want to debate Carl's "full synthetic" philosophy? Just curious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted August 7, 2018 Share Posted August 7, 2018 I like to Run the car for a few minutes with cheap detergent oil mixed with 1 quart kerosene per 4 quarts oil, and change it, and the filter. Then run it maybe 50 miles with more cheap detergent oil, and then change it again, with the full synthetic this time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted August 7, 2018 Share Posted August 7, 2018 44 minutes ago, ADade said: 1. Mouse nests? Morgan, the secret is a clean garage with frequent Orkin treatments. I'm pretty meticulous with my garage, was was my father-in-law, so the car has never been in a less than clean (some would say "anticeptic") environment. My mice don't live in the garage. I live in the Adirondacks, they all live outdoors and find their way in, especially in the winter. Gotta keep a set mousetrap in every car and check them once a day. Peanut butter is the best bait. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted August 7, 2018 Share Posted August 7, 2018 The original ignition coil on the car was shaped like an old rural mailbox (still used today). They look neat. I'd like to find one...I can afford. My car had a replacement Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADade Posted August 8, 2018 Author Share Posted August 8, 2018 On 8/7/2018 at 10:07 AM, DonMicheletti said: The original ignition coil on the car was shaped like an old rural mailbox (still used today). They look neat. I'd like to find one...I can afford. My car had a replacement Don is this what you mean? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted August 8, 2018 Share Posted August 8, 2018 It looks like there is a modern coil hidden inside the original coil body... nice fake if so. Originally the wire to the distributor cap would have been connected to that terminal on the top. The "rubber boot" coils came sometime later 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADade Posted August 14, 2018 Author Share Posted August 14, 2018 I need spark plugs and plug wires, fan belt ....anybody have a suggestion for those parts? As a matter of fact, what's the best source for parts in general? I can find just about anything I want for my '31 Model A, but this is a very different kettle of fish! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janousek Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 On 8/7/2018 at 8:32 AM, ADade said: Anybody want to debate Carl's "full synthetic" philosophy? Just curious. I wasn't going to say anything but I think it's his strong opinion. I personally prefer to run a quality mineral based oil like Schaffers racing oil in straight 30 or 40 depending the time of year. It's more oil than these cars ever need and have the correct additives for a long life without the seal leakeage that synthetic can cause. I remember in the mid 90's when GM switched to syn gear lube in the front pigs. They started leaking out of the seals and the service bulletin wanted the tech to lower the oil level to prevent this seal weeping. I also ran axle tests back in that time frame and the synthetics wouldn't take the shear metal to metal contact that the mineral oil would. Additives were developed and we moved forward. Without these additives the oil wasn't that good. So in my experience 20 years ago just because it said synthetic didn't mean it was better. A good quality mineral oil that is developed with our cars in mind is what I'm happy with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADade Posted August 16, 2018 Author Share Posted August 16, 2018 I have spark plug wires, but still lookin for the plugs themselves. Anybody have a part number? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted August 16, 2018 Share Posted August 16, 2018 Unless the plugs look really bad or are shot, they should be OK. Just age doesnt hurt them. Just clean them if they are sooty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted August 16, 2018 Share Posted August 16, 2018 See the "Pre War links" at the top of this forum. Some of the items that you mentioned needing are listed there. I just added a few more vendors too. Hugh 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADade Posted August 16, 2018 Author Share Posted August 16, 2018 I badly need new tires. The ones on the car were purchased in the mid-1950s and probably haven't rolled more than 10 revolutions in the past 60 years. I have Lesters on my '31 Model A, but what's the consensus? Lester? Coker? Blockley? The size on the car now is 30 x 3 1/2. Is that correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted August 17, 2018 Share Posted August 17, 2018 3 hours ago, ADade said: I badly need new tires. The ones on the car were purchased in the mid-1950s and probably haven't rolled more than 10 revolutions in the past 60 years. I have Lesters on my '31 Model A, but what's the consensus? Lester? Coker? Blockley? The size on the car now is 30 x 3 1/2. Is that correct? Lester is owner by Coker. I think they all are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADade Posted August 27, 2018 Author Share Posted August 27, 2018 Been doing quite a bit of work lately. Here's what's done: - Removed oil sump, cleaned out, new gasket, reinstalled - New plug wires. Points, rotor cap look great - New fan belt - leather. Had to get the 2 1/2" belt cut down to 2" and I think it's still a tad too wide. May go to a rubber belt - Removed fuel tank, drained and it's out being blasted, lined and primed. Back this week - Haven't figured out yet how to unstick the float on the fuel gauge that screws onto the tank. Cleaned with CLR and soaked in penetrating oil. Still stuck - Blew out fuel line - Removed carb, washed out with carb cleaner and made sure all parts move freely. Reinstalled - Opened and inspected vacuum chamber to insure float not stuck. Interior looks almost new. - Washed out radiator and put in new coolant. - New radiator and water pump hoses - New tires on order - Coker 30 x 3 1/2 black. Backorderdered till Sep 20th - Cleaned up leather with Griot's 3-in-1 leather treatment. That stuff is magic! Still to do: - Open up oil pump and clean - Paint & reinstall fuel tank - Install new battery Anybody have other thoughts? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimy Posted August 27, 2018 Share Posted August 27, 2018 Clean out oil passages and any sludge traps in the crankshaft! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted August 29, 2018 Share Posted August 29, 2018 On 8/27/2018 at 7:45 PM, Grimy said: Clean out oil passages and any sludge traps in the crankshaft! There were no oil passages in the crankshaft in 1918. It was a splash system for all bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted August 29, 2018 Share Posted August 29, 2018 On 8/27/2018 at 3:53 PM, ADade said: Been doing quite a bit of work lately. Here's what's done: - Haven't figured out yet how to unstick the float on the fuel gauge that screws onto the tank. Cleaned with CLR and soaked in penetrating oil. Still stuck. I got mine unstuck with acetone. Pour it on, wait 5 seconds, and it will unstick. I got a new cork from a wine bottle, they are the same size and shape. Drank the wine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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