REPORTS ON A 1914 HUMBERETTE RESTORATION

[JV Puleo]

I'd say that is just about a perfect rise in compression. It's enough to take advantage of better fuels and not enough to over stress the internal parts. Combined with lighter pistons it should make a marked improvement in performance although we have no idea how it performed new.

[mike6024]

Wow, I thought a reduction of 21 cc was a lot, but when you are starting from a compression ratio of only 3.8 the increase is not so much.

[John_Mereness]

You are about to hit page 50 - should be a prize or something related to such !

[Mike "Hubbie" Stearns]

Mike, Hope you get feeling better soon so you can get back to playing with the engine

[Mike Macartney]

14 hours ago, Roger Zimmermann said:

Then, I could be able to help you more than with your present project!

 

Roger, I think with model making I would need more than just help.

 

I, some how, always have problems with small bits and pieces. Before Christmas I decided to fit some label plates to the draws of the 30-draw cabinet I bought.

 

 

I made a jig to drill the holes for the screws. That work OK.

 

 

Trying to pick up the screws to attach the label plates was the problem - lots of the screws ended up on the workshop floor! It may have helped if I had thought a bit more about what I had! I think these are wood screws and not self tapping screws - it needed super glue to hold them in place!

 

 

 

Edited January 6, 2020 by Mike Macartney (see edit history)

[Mike Macartney]

14 hours ago, JV Puleo said:

although we have no idea how it performed new.

 

I don't think the Humberette held the land speed record in 1914!

 

11 hours ago, mike6024 said:

when you are starting from a compression ratio of only 3.8 the increase is not so much.

 

Hopefully, it will at least help. I had hoped it may increase the CR a little higher, every little helps.

 

11 hours ago, John_Mereness said:

You are about to hit page 50 - should be a prize or something related to such !

 

I only hit 50 pages as I 'waffle on' too much! I do attempt sometimes to make my posts a little light hearted.

 

5 hours ago, Mike "Hubbie" Stearns said:

Hope you get feeling better soon so you can get back to playing with the engine

 

Thank you Mike. I am now starting to get 'Cabin Fever'. I will have a go this morning and try puffing my way up to the workshop. I really would like to see if I can make a start on machining the pistons. It is also expensive being stuck in the house with the computer - I keep buying 'engineering stuff' on eBay! Just bought a tool post grinder yesterday.

Edited January 6, 2020 by Mike Macartney
change the text (see edit history)

[Mike Macartney]

You maybe pleased to hear that I managed nearly the whole morning in the workshop this morning. I know I was pleased that I could at last do something. Some of the work ended up being a complete waste of time, but never mind. It also had before Christmas when I had decided to modify the crankshaft main shaft holding jig to fit in the lathe tailstock drill chuck. The diameter was too large to fit the chuck so I decided to turn it down to fit.

 

 

What I forgot was, that it had been bored out from the other end and the part I was machining broke off before I got to the correct diameter "D'oh!"

 

I also did manage to make take measurements for doing the drawing work before I was 'confined to barracks'.

 

 

Measuring the overall length of the original piston wrist pin.

 

 

The same without the ends.

 

 

diameter and thickness of the circlips I plan to use.

 

 

A rough idea of the small end diameter of the conrod.

 

 

Joe, maybe the extra hole may have been a method of originally holding the wrist pin in place?

 

I'll try and post what I managed to do this morning, tomorrow, if that makes sense.

 

 

 

[JV Puleo]

Is the hole threaded? I think you are probably right that the hole was for some sort of pin retainer. Conventional wisdom at the time required that the pin be tight in the rod and swivel on the piston only so if there was a retainer there it would have to have been one that allowed the pin to move radially.

[Mike Macartney]

I forgot to have a look this morning to see if the small hole in the side of the original piston was threaded, although, I am fairly sure it isn't, I will check the next time I go in the workshop.

 

 

At least, not being able to work in the workshop, made me make notes and drawings of what I was going to do to the Ford Zetec pistons to make them fit the Humber engine.

 

Yesterday, I decided to make a long bar that would fit snuggly in the gudgeon pin holes of the piston.

 

 

This was so that I could accurately line up the inside faces of the pin holes at right angles to the gudgeon pin.

 

 

I then I thought - "There's a hole through the Ford gudgeon pin. I wonder if I have some straight rod that will fit that hole?" Luck was on my side, I found an ideal length of rod of the correct diameter.

 

I checked that the gudgeon pin was at 90 degrees and clamped the piston to the milling table.

 

 

I milled out 0.163" from each side. Which is enough room for the conrod and bronze bushes. I am modifying the first two pistons for Kevin, in Australia, as he is in more of a rush than I am. It also gives me a chance to practise on his piston before I do mine, but don't tell him that!

 

 

Being a complete amateur at this machining, with the mill, I took my time and only machined off 0.010" at a time. I was concerned that the piston may move in it's clamps if I took too bigger cut.

 

 

The first piston machined out and ready for the bushes to be fitted. I managed to machine both the pistons for Kevin this morning.

 

Both the drill rod for the gudgeon pins and the bronze material arrived this morning. So when I find out from Kevin the diameter of his gudgeon pins I can start making the bushes.

 

 

 

 

 

[JV Puleo]

Nice!

[alsfarms]

Good Work Mike........With that success you probably slept well last night!

Al

[Mike Macartney]

Thanks guys.

 

I have decided that I am going to 'thin' the width of the small end of my conrods down to the width that Kevin's conrods are.

 

 

If I cut too much material from the inside of the piston it might weaken the piston just too much.

 

 

Both pairs of pistons are now machined and are ready for the bushes to be fitted.

 

 

I started on the bushes by facing off the Colphos 90 bronze and decided I was too tired to do anymore. Although I did measure and write down the width of the parting tool. Machining the other two pistons, this morning, was more tiring than I thought. I am still having to really concentrate with machining, it doesn't seem to be second nature yet. I will spend the afternoon thinking about the machining operations and the best sequence then make a start on the bushes tomorrow. I bought enough material to make extra, just in case I make a couple of mistakes. I want to try and do nearly all the machining from this end, then part off a bush. When all 8 bushes are made I can then face off the flange end to have a 1/16" thick flange.

 

Tonight is going to be my first night out, since the week before Christmas, I am going down to the local village pub, with Robert, to meet up with the other old boys, and put the world to rights!

[JV Puleo]

The right choice Mike. I've learned more than once that 99% of the errors happen when you are tired. I doubt that most of the people reading this forum realize how much tension us amateurs suffer from when doing this and how exhausting that is. It's quite different from general mechanical work in that sense. I get tired doing the brakes on my truck but there is very little tension involved.

 

I also find that I have my best ideas in the morning when I'm rested.

 

 

Edited January 8, 2020 by JV Puleo (see edit history)

[alsfarms]

Mike, I am curious, did you and your buddies solve any serious world crisis during your gathering at the pub?  If you didn't you missed a good opportunity.  I agree with your thinking on narrowing the small end of the rod to fit your modern pistons, in lieu of modifying the piston.  You are also taking some of the rotating weight away.  

 

Joe, I sure agree about the "potential tension" of doing machine work.  The end results and personal satisfaction can't be measured when a project is brought to a good completion!   I bet all of us have had one of those epiphany moments when a suitable solution to an issue that is confronting us while eating or sleeping and we immediately make some notes!  What is even more satisfying is when it appears that our idea is ultimately better than what the original engineer came up with many years ago.  

Al 

[JV Puleo]

The saving grace is that the original makers, unless they were one of the "best" - i.e. Pierce-Arrow, Packard, Locomobile, RR, Delauny-Bellville etc. – were all working to a budget. They may well have known, and I suspect most did know, that there were better ways of doing things but the cost involved was prohibitive. Even on something as simple as my project it is clear that many of my solutions would have been prohibitive at the time. They would be even more prohibitive now were I not doing it myself and even then I have not kept track of what I've spent on tools and materials. Nevertheless, I am certain it is far less than it would be if were paying $100 per hour for specialty machine work.

 

I suspect that between the reduction in reciprocating weight and the slightly improved compression ratio Mike's engine will produce 10% to 15% more power than it did new.

[Mike Macartney]

22 hours ago, alsfarms said:

Mike, I am curious, did you and your buddies solve any serious world crisis during your gathering at the pub?

 

The answer is definitely NO. None of us can understand WHY anybody would want to be the President or Prime Minister of a country. Maybe, we just went to the wrong schools! When we arrived at the pub yesterday evening, there were only two other people in the bar, I suppose it is just after New Year and Christmas. I am pretty sure that not everybody in the village has given up drink for the New Year! As we left the pup at about 9pm the pub started to fill up with the Roadrunners for their monthly meeting, it's a local motorcycle club, whose members are mostly getting on towards our age.

 

Today was another stressful morning in the workshop, on the lathe, hopefully it will get less stressful the more machining work I do. Unfortunately, some of the photos I took did not come out well. It must have been nerves! I'll try and do better tomorrow.

 

I tried to work out how I could machine down the length of the smaller radius of the bush to 0.750" long. I had painted the bronze with marking out blue yesterday so I set my odd leg callipers to 3/4" and rotated the spindle to mark the bar. I then moved the lathe tool to the scribed line and set the magnetic backed dial gauge, I had recently purchased, to zero. I then took a 0.010" cut and set the cross slide dial to zero.

 

 

It is the first time I have used a dial gauge for this purpose before and I was surprised how easy it was to stop just before the zero mark came up on the dial gauge. I kept removing metal and checking the diameter when I was getting near to the 0.812 + 0.001 or 0.002 that I was trying to achieve. Worried that I was going to take too much metal off, I checked the diameter with the micrometer a lot more times than I really needed to. Nerves and lack of experience I suppose.

 

I decide to drill a 1/2" hole a short distance into the end of the bronze, from this end, after first using a centre drill. I wanted to cut the groove for the internal circlip at this end of the bush, before I parted off the bronze and fit it in another size collet, to face and drill the other of the bush.

 

 

The tool did cut a groove, but it was not deep enough. I think the problem was that I did not allow for the flexing of the slender lathe tool when I pulled the tool in for 0.040". When I tried the circlip in the groove I thought it was OK, but after I had parted the bush from the bar I found out that groove for the circlip was not deep enough. By then, it was too late to try and deepen it. We learn from our mistakes!

 

 

Before I parted the bush I did make a chamfer on the end with a fine file. Maybe I should have used a lathe tool? At least I got the bush diameter correct. It measured 0.8135". The gudgeon pin hole in the piston is 0. 812". I measured the length of the bush part, that fits in the piston, with a Vernier caliper. I wanted 0.75", it measured 0.695" - Oooop's, I packed up for the day to 'lick my wounds' and have a think where I went wrong, and scheme some ideas how I can become more accurate. 

 

 

Ready for my second attempt tomorrow.

[mike6024]

I visited England yesterday by having a Samuel Smith's Chocolate Stout.

 

 

[alsfarms]

I bet that brew isn't a milk chocolate variety!  🙂

[JV Puleo]

For anything precise I use a dial indicator fitted to the cross slide. I purposely bought a large 2nd hand Brown & Sharpe for that purpose, first because they only made top flight stuff and also because the large dial allows me to see it better. I can, if need be, get down to .0005 with it. Don't despair. We all make little flubs like that...unfortunately, the tension never goes away when it gets down to the last cut on a really precise part. I know at least one gentleman who, despite being vastly better than I am, still feels it.

[Mike Macartney]

15 hours ago, mike6024 said:

I visited England yesterday by having a Samuel Smith's Chocolate Stout.

 

I hope you didn't get too wet on the outside with our constant rain at the present time!  What's it taste like? At least the name is better than the Old Engine oil beer that I posted about a while back.

 

13 hours ago, JV Puleo said:

Don't despair. We all make little flubs like that...

 

The encouragement from you helps a lot. Thank you. Any tips on cutting circlip grooves?

[JV Puleo]

I've never done it but I have seen an "internal grooving" tool that is what is needed.

[Mike Macartney]

This is the tool I attempted to use to cut the circlip groove.

 

 

I think the 'arm' of the tool is too springy and it did not cut properly.

 

 

I'll try using this one on the groove that I am going to cut under the oil hole in the piston. It should help lubrication.

 

I faced off this end and reduced the thickness of the flange to 1/16". Centre drilled and drilled through at 12.5mm.

 

 

This photo is out of focus but the tool did cut a groove for the oil.

 

 

I reamed the bush. The drill rod I am going to use for the gudgeon pins fitted the bush OK.

 

 

I tried the circlip in the oil groove and it seemed to fit.

 

Now, how am I going to machine a circlip groove in this end?

 

 

It is possible that I can fit the bush in a collet and machine the groove from the other end if I am careful with my measurement's.

 

I bush nearly done - only another 7 bushes to make. At my present rate of progress that will take nearly two weeks?!? I'm sure I will get better with more practise.

 

 

[Mike Macartney]

3 minutes ago, JV Puleo said:

I've never done it but I have seen an "internal grooving" tool that is what is needed.

 

Just looked up 'internal grooving tool'.

 

 

A bit similar to the HSS one I used.

[JV Puleo]

I'd use an expanding arbor, placing it so there was about .125 free space at the end. I'm not sure of the ID so if that isn't practical I'd consider making an arbor. A simple one would be a piece of 1" rod turned down to the ID of the bushing. Drill through and threaded for a tapered pipe thread. Then slit the end so it can expand and screw in a pipe plug. I used the kind with a hex socket in them. This doesn't work as well as the "factory" version but should be fine for something like a circlip groove.

[JV Puleo]

I like that one.

[Mike Macartney]

Thanks again for your help Joe. I'll kook up pipe plug and see what I can find.

[JV Puleo]

You can make the arbor out of aluminum...easier to work and it is a one-time tool so making it suitable for handling by shop gorillas isn't needed. I've done it a couple of times when nothing else would work. Another solution is to buy an "expanding 5C collet". Those are made with machinable ends so you can turn it to exactly the dimension you need. If you buy one that is too big but used and in an odd size, chances are it will be cheap.

 

 

[Mike Macartney]

15 hours ago, JV Puleo said:

Another solution is to buy an "expanding 5C collet".

 

I did buy a set of 4. I thought about machining a larger one down, but as it is brand new, and I have not used it yet, I decided against the idea. Thanks for the idea of the aluminium arbor. After reading your post I was wondering about temporally gluing a bush onto an arbor, as I remember reading that 'old timers' used to use shellac. From looking on the internet; it looks as if it is possible to use super glue, then after machining, use heat or acetone to part the bits.

 

I have just given superglue a try and it works.

 

I made an aluminium spigot to slide the the bronze bush onto. I was going to make the expanding arbor that Joe suggested but then I thought when I had machined it to the correct diameter "I'll just try Superglue".

 

 

Superglued the bronze bush onto the aluminium and machined the circlip groove. The bush did not move at all on the aluminium.

 

 

Heated the bronze bush with a hot air gun and used a screw driver between the bush and the 5c collet and in less than 30 seconds the bronze bush came off.

 

 

Checked that the circlip fitted the groove.

 

 

Then checked that the bushes still fitted the drill rod.

 

Time to make the tool for pressing them into the piston from the inside. I need to sketch out some ideas as I need to spread the load on the outside of the piston as it not a regular shape.

 

 

 

 

[alsfarms]

Hello Mike,

You are back and heading in a good direction for sure.  This aspect of your engine rebuild certainly has my interest as I need to complete a similar task on a future Harley Davidson project.  On that project, several Harley guys have suggested using aircraft grade aluminum for the bushings as the heat expansion rate will be very close to the same.  I actually suspect that with your bushings locked in place from the inside and clipped from the outside you will have a very substantial improvement.  I may have missed, but what is the difference in weight between the original cast iron pistons and your new aluminum pistons?

Al

[Mike Macartney]

Hello Al,

I had thought about aluminium. As I had used bronze before in my 1927 Humber 350cc when I replaced the piston with a modern Ford piston I decided to do the same here. I attach the spreadsheet with all the weights of the engine parts. You will see that the Ford piston is roughly 2/3rds the weight of the original cast iron piston. Mike

 

WEIGHTS OF ENGINE PARTS
Parts Weighed	Kg	ounces
Complete Flywheel Assembly	21.800	768.97
Old Rear Flywheel (bare)	9.628	339.62
Old Front Flywheel (bare)	9.884	348.65
The one old main shaft I have	0.482	17.00
The old worn (small) big end	0.044	1.55
Locking clamp, bolt & washer (1-off)	0.026	0.92
Locking clamp, bolt & washer (2-off)	0.052	1.83
Two drilled out flywheel rivets	0.006	0.21
Old big end nut (1-off)	0.040	1.41
Old big end nut (2-off)	0.080	2.82
Original No.2 Piston with rings & pin	0.660	23.28
No.2 Piston Pin	0.066	2.33
Original No.1 Piston with rings & pin	0.704	24.83
No.1 Piston Pin	0.066	2.33
BMW Piston without Pin	0.526	18.55
BMW Piston Pin	0.132	4.66
Circlips?	?	?
Total BMW Piston Weight	0.658	23.21
Ford Piston without Pin	0.338	11.92
Ford Piston Pin	0.106	3.74
Total Ford Piston Weight	0.442	15.59
New Big End Nut	0.044	1.55
Complete Conrod Assembly	1.252	44.16
Conrod Large End (average)	0.813	28.68
Conrod Small End (average)	0.433	15.27
Rear End Flywheel Complete	9.996	352.60
Front End Flywheel Complete (with Big End Pin)	10.460	368.97
Total of the two flywheel parts above	20.456	721.56
The Total above plus the conrod & nut	21.708	765.73
Flywheel Assembly (difference in bits and together)	0.092	3.25

[Frank Tate]

4 hours ago, Mike Macartney said:

Time to make the tool for pressing them into the piston from the inside. I need to sketch out some ideas as I need to spread the load on the outside of the piston as it not a regular shape.

Couldn't it be something as simple as a C clamp?  Just put a small pad on the outside of the piston where the screw pad would rest.  The bonus is that you can hold the clamp in your vise thus freeing up both hands to position the bushing and tighten the screw to press the bushing in.  Sort of like this: https://duckduckgo.com/l/?kh=-1&uddg=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FHeavy-Joint-Removal-Adapters-Trucks%2Fdp%2FB01N7CO50E%3FSubscriptionId%3DAKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q%26tag%3Dduckduckgo-d-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB01N7CO50E

 

Or a threaded rod with appropriately placed nut and washers.

 

Frank 

[JV Puleo]

A C clamp would probably work but you run the risk of the bushing starting with a slight cant to one side. I'd want to pull them in straight. A bolt through the center, head on the inside with a washer bearing on the flange and something on the outside to distribute the pressure on the entire circumference of the hole...a piece of bar of the right OD with a hole through the center would do it.

 

Or... if there isn't room. head on the outside. Put a nut and washer on the inside. That is actually better. The bushing should have a very slight chamfer on leading edge so it self-centers.

Edited January 11, 2020 by JV Puleo (see edit history)

[Mike Macartney]

13 hours ago, Frank Tate said:

Sort of like this:

 

This link did not work???

 

13 hours ago, Frank Tate said:

Or a threaded rod with appropriately placed nut and washers

 

Yes, that is what I am working on but with some extra bits to pull it in square.

 

10 hours ago, JV Puleo said:

The bushing should have a very slight chamfer on leading edge so it self-centers.

 

I have done that on the bushes I have made so far.

 

I started to make a steel bush that was to go inside the bush from the flange end with a clearance hole down the centre for the threaded rod. By this time I was getting tired from the lathe work on the bushes in the morning. I was parting the extra material off the bush and this happened!

 

 

The parting tool jammed and it broke the collet.

 

I did in fact carry on and made another one. This time in brass, only because I had a suitable bit of scrap brass available.

 

 

This 'extra bush' that fits inside the gudgeon pin bush should help to spread the load and keep the threaded rod in the centre of the hole.

 

At least I finished the day on a high.

 

As you can see from the outer side view of the piston that I posted before, this end needs more thought, especially as the bronze bush protrudes out of the hole to give the gudgeon pin a bit more 'bearing surface'. I will go and have a play in the workshop this morning and see what I can scheme.

[Mike Macartney]

Still not sure what I am quite going to do for the outer part of the tool for pulling in the bronze bushes into the piston, I have sketched out some ideas, but it seems that I am now making it up as I go along!

 

 

I started off with this bit of stainless hexagon scrap and drilled it out to a clearance hole for the threaded studding, that I am going to use to pull the bush into the gudgeon pin hole in the piston.

 

I then counter bored it to a depth of a 1/4" and then bored it out to an internal clearance bore of the diameter of the bronze bush.

 

 

Will it fit?

 

 

Well that's a bonus! I have got to pack up now, as I am being collected at 12.30pm to go for a Sunday lunchtime beer by my pal Robert, it's a hard life being retired!

[Mike Macartney]

On ‎1‎/‎11‎/‎2020 at 10:50 PM, JV Puleo said:

. . . you run the risk of the bushing starting with a slight cant to one side.

 

Yes, even when trying to pull it straight with a threaded rod! I think I need more of a chamfer for the lead in? Read on . . .

 

 

I measured the side of the piston where this part of the tool, for pulling in the bushes fits and I started machining the tool to fit.

 

 

On one side of the tool more metal had to be removed than the other side.

 

 

Checking that the counter bore in the tool will accept the bush by using the Ford gudgeon pin to check it. Why I didn't use the bush, I don't know?

 

 

The tool needs a bit more work to fit snugly into the side of the piston.

 

 

You can see in the above photo I need to remove some more metal from the tool.

 

 

Still needs a bit more taken off the bottom of the tool.

 

 

This shows it a bit more clearly with the threaded rod fitted. I did some more machining and filing until the threaded rod was at right angles to the piston.

 

 

OK here goes.

 

It became a bit tight and I thought it was me loosing my 'puff' and becoming rather worn out. Then Pete came into the workshop to borrow a trolley jack and I asked him to have a go tightening the nuts. Which he did, until he to found it hard to move the spanners.

 

I then removed the threaded rod to have a look to see what the problem was and found this. . . .

 

 

Oooop's!

 

I don't think it is as bad a it looks. The slivers of aluminium piston are very thin and came off easily when I pulled the bush back out.

 

 

I then pushed the drill rod in through the bush to see how far canted over the bush was, by viewing the end of the drill rod on the other side of the piston, the side that did not have a bush fitted. It looks worse than it actually is, I think it is the angle that I took the photo, that makes it look a long way out of true.

 

I retired back to the house to metaphorically lick my wounds!

 

I hope I can save the piston, if not we do have one spare piston between us.

[alsfarms]

Mike, thanks for sharing your bushing process.  Yup, not always do things turn out just as we would like!  You are on the very edge of success however!  Hang in there, the sun is going to shine tomorrow.

Al

[Roger Zimmermann]

Probably the method to pull the bushing was not ideal: the piston is a cast part; the surface on which the special tool rested is not 100% perpendicular to the axle. I would imagine a device to guide the bushing using the free hole from the piston and the inside diameter from the bushing. With that, even if the tool is not perfectly perpendicular, the bushing will not be canted.

If you can guide the bushing the right way into the piston, you will probably be able to save it as the shaving was not on the whole surface.

[r1lark]

Possibly if you heat the piston, and freeze the bushing, and work quickly, that may help the situation. On heating the piston, maybe heating slow in an oven to 200 degrees or so? 

[Mike "Hubbie" Stearns]

Mike, I think I would use an other bushing that is .001" less and stick it in the other side as a guide. Use the same setup as you did on the first try. That way it would hold the rod in the center to help guide it in straight. You may also make a bushing to take up any play in tbetween the rod and bushing. Just a thought. Mike

[Mike Macartney]

Thanks guys. I appreciate your comments. Now I realise I should have jotted down various ideas for pulling or pushing the bushes into the pistons before I blindly went ahead and used the first method I thought of. I used the treaded rod idea because I had used  that method in the past on bushes and it had worked. Lesson learned!

 

22 hours ago, alsfarms said:

Hang in there, the sun is going to shine tomorrow.

 

Al, I wish it would, I'm fed up with all this rain and windy weather that you lot on the other side of the pond are sending us!

 

22 hours ago, Roger Zimmermann said:

If you can guide the bushing the right way into the piston, you will probably be able to save it as the shaving was not on the whole surface.

 

Thank you Roger. After reading your post I used the original Ford gudgeon pin to push the bush in straight and it worked.

 

15 hours ago, Mike "Hubbie" Stearns said:

Mike, I think I would use an other bushing that is .001" less and stick it in the other side as a guide.

 

Mike, I used a slightly smaller bush and pushed it in (see my reply to Roger above).

 

16 hours ago, r1lark said:

Possibly if you heat the piston, and freeze the bushing

 

I may well do this with the other pistons. A heat gun maybe enough to expand the gudgeon pin bore enough? The problem is we don't have a freezer anymore since it packed up and our fridge does not have a freezer compartment. The fridge may at least get the bush reasonably cool.

 

 

By using a slightly smaller diameter bush (0.0005" smaller) and using the original Ford gudgeon pin to push the bush in, it fitted OK.

 

 

Now, to design a method of pushing, pulling or both pushing and pulling to fit this second bush in. 

 

 

I'll make a spigot on this 'lump' of metal bar the internal diameter of the bronze bush. I am now getting used to using the dial gauge to get the machining lengths correct. This spigot is going to be 3/4" long.

 

 

I got close on the correct diameter with the machining. The final sizing I did with emery cloth to get a nice sliding fit. It nearly fits.

 

 

It does now!

 

 

You will have to wait until tomorrow so see what I do next.