Jump to content

Occasional rattle noise from bell housing area.


Recommended Posts

5 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

Might a compression test be useful?

There is probably too much damage to even attempt to turn it over again with the starter . It really sounds terrible. I have given up on it.

 

Good news is that I will have the new engine before xmas this time....:)

 

The mystery of the clutch assembly solved. Interestingly, the pressure plate that came with the old engine (from sasha39) the inner circumference was taken out by 5 to 10mm (haven't measured it yet) but had the standard rubber style clutch plate, so there were no clearance issues. But the one in the existing engine with the new style of clutch plate (with the springs) and wider centre hub, the pressure plate inner circumference was NOT taken out, hence the contact on the rivets.

 

New clutch plate with large centre hub 

                                                                                                   Rivets overlapping pressure plate

IMAG1084b.thumb.jpg.1c6a5958b0b4593c3c354010624f37b9.jpgIMAG1085b.thumb.jpg.d6a802c3b52486fdb4b3355bf9429087.jpg 

IMAG1087.thumb.jpg.368e380ce231d6e44920b3a1aa2c7f8c.jpgIMAG1071a.thumb.jpg.aa3fd2af4fd06aedfc8f6b1f74a16f25.jpgOld style of pressure plate with small hub.

 

I don't have a pic of the other pressure plate that the inner circumference has been taken out on previously, it is at the machinist to be balanced with crank. So the new clutch plate will go with the old pressure plate with no clearance issues this time.

 

 

IMAG1072a.thumb.jpg.9f08aa89f8779270264fc90f60557a35.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by maok
additional info (see edit history)
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
On 11/26/2018 at 11:02 AM, maok said:

 

Regarding the crank end play, its probably way out of spec. If that was causing this then I would image it would happen on a more regular basis, but stuff do I know .

 

Yes, its 'character building' trying to find where this issue is ...lol

 

Interestingly I measured this the other day and it was only about  0.006" play.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh dear no wonder it was making horrible noises. We had a similar thing happen in a 3208 Cat engine that’s in one of our harvesters a couple of years ago, it got us through with a bit of rattling and extra oil consumption. There were a lot of piston part in the sump when we removed it 😧. Anyway another engine solved the problem. On that note I don’t know if you have read the below line about bearing replacement in your manual but I wish it was this simple. 

2FB509E0-B9DF-4D81-9F7F-CE900AD77496.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Well, a new engine didn't fix the rattle..🙁

 

It seems to happen only when I back off the power, ie, pushing the clutch pedal in or releasing the throttle, regardless of the gear it's in. I can feel the vibration of the rattle via the gear stick and some from the clutch pedal.

 

No rattle  when accellerating or constant cruise.

 

Any ideas?

Edited by maok (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Drum roll..................................

 

Drive shaft had worn inside the pockets of the balls. When I inspected the drive shaft initially, the balls looked GREAT! However, neglected to look inside the cups, which are worn badly. Why do they make the balls from hardened steal and the cups from mild steal? It surely is easier to replace the balls than the cups.

 

New modern drive shaft (almost a hotrod now) and she is less rattly, I can hear the coins rattling in my pockets...lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...