Kenneth Carr Posted July 16, 2018 Share Posted July 16, 2018 (edited) I am at the point where I need to remove the Temperature / Ammeter gauge cluster so I can replace both of them. How do I remove the temperature sensor cable without breaking anything? It looks like I can pull back the protective fabric sleeve by expanding the split collar. What's next? The replacement unit I have seems to have the end of the cable crimped onto the back of the meter. I'd hate to pull on that and destroy the capillary tube and let out the gas it is filled with. Am I supposed to remove the sensor from the block first, then remove those two screws and thread it all through the exit hole in the meter? Photo below. Thanks! Edited July 16, 2018 by Roadmaster71 typo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted July 16, 2018 Share Posted July 16, 2018 The gage, bulb and tube cannot be separated. You are right, you have to remove the bulb from the block and thread it out that way. If you have trouble getting the temp. bulb from the block, you can get at it by removing the rear rocker arm stanchion stud under the valve cover. You can nudge the bulb out with a screwdriver. Obviously, you have to drain the cooling system first. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenneth Carr Posted July 17, 2018 Author Share Posted July 17, 2018 Don, Thanks so much. Before I read your post that is what I started doing. I'll be removing the vacuum hose to make room for the sensor to easily fit through the hole in the firewall. I need to replace that hose anyway. I'd be done by now except I was called away and am just back now. Too tired. 90 degrees and 100% humidity here. No problem pulling the sensor since it is already broken off. But I will need to get it out eventually. I was not aware of the method you mentioned so you just solved another problem I had! I assume that the gauge opens by prying off the bezel at the crimped areas? I don't see another good way to get at it.. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 While I am not familiar wth the 41's , from your photo, it looks like you will have to remove the bezel. Just uncrimp the couple of places that hold it on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenneth Carr Posted August 8, 2018 Author Share Posted August 8, 2018 (edited) I finally extracted that pesky water temperature sensor from my 1941 Buick. It took days. I squirted it many times with PB Blaster and wiggled the center pin that protrudes from the piece. It would not budge. I was using long nose pliers. Next I bought needle nose locking pliers (like vise grip). These allowed me to yank the center pin in all directions. I had to be careful with all this because I did not want to ruin the threads of the cavity. Then I drilled two small holes in it and blasted more. No movement. Then I stuck a nail (about 6 d) in one of the holes and moved it from side to side. No movement of the sensor, so I thought. I also heated the base of the sensor with a 30 watt soldering iron (the biggest one that could fit in the 1/2" diameter space). I followed this by packing it with ice and tugging some more. No dice. What I neglected to notice was that for some reason it was now easier to see that center pin. More PB Blaster was applied (drenched). Finally today went to tug on that pin again and noticed that it was actually sticking out of the well. Movement? I tugged again with the pliers and it began to move. Then out it popped with about 2 cups of antifreeze. I would celebrate with several beers except that I would get sick ... on some nasty antibiotics now. I am so relieved! PS: while trying to explain the problem to some friends I made a drawing to illustrate the bind I was in. That is attached below too. Edited August 8, 2018 by Roadmaster71 Changed and added imagges and text (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted August 8, 2018 Share Posted August 8, 2018 Excellent! As you know, I will be doing the same job on my '41, and I'm hoping my old sensor comes out more easily! I had somehow missed this thread when you started it. I assume you got the gauge housing apart okay? You were correct that you can easily remove the bezel, as Don also said, by just uncrimping the places where the bezel is crimped. You then remove the bezel and the glass, pull the whole temperature gauge out through the front, and feed the new one back in the same way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenneth Carr Posted August 8, 2018 Author Share Posted August 8, 2018 (edited) Neil .... Yes it was easy to disassemble the gauge exactly as described. These are things that I have to be told are possible before I attempt them. I'll do almost anything if someone says "it worked for me". I did not want to remove the rocker cover and go that route except as a last resort. I have a habit of getting myself in trouble. Those holes I drilled in the sensor never really penetrated the inside of it. They essentially scraped the inside and cut through the rim of the sensor (just like the rim of a rifle cartridge). I think that allowed the PB blaster to get underneath everything and help out. I may have chipped the shelf it was pressed against but a little sealer of some kind should take care of that. Edited August 8, 2018 by Roadmaster71 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenneth Carr Posted August 30, 2018 Author Share Posted August 30, 2018 A quick update on my replacing of the water temperature sensor ... I threaded the new sensor in tightly and made sure that the cable exited with just enough curve to pass through the undercut in the spark plug cover. Before securing the cover I started the engine to test everything. The temperature rose slowly on the meter and was well stabilized at about 179 degrees after about 7 minutes. I shut down after 10 minutes. The only problem was the heater shutoff valve that leaked. I removed that, wrapped it with pipe tape again, and tightened the valve nut. Now that is good. I also installed a new thermostat housing that I had previously painted. Of course when I was removing the old housing I broke one of the bolts off. My friends Tom and Bob (our AACA club Gaslighters patrol) drilled out the old bolt and retapped the hole. All is secure now with a new radiator hose thrown in for good measure. I developed other problems but I will leave those for a blog post when I finally get beyond this instrument panel job. It never ends! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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