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radiator 1940 super series 56


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On 7/20/2018 at 12:03 AM, -morten- said:

Have not removed mine yet, but here is how i am told by the helpfull Daves1940Buick56S:

 

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If you want to pull the radiator the hood has to come off. The hood's a little dynamic once loose so it's best to do with 3 people, one on the front. The grille does not have to come off. The top piece over the radiator is part of the shell and front clip and does not come off. To remove the radiator, pull the water pump and remove the hood. Then take out the bolts holding the radiator on to the shell and lift up and back towards the top of the engine. It takes 2 people although I have been told that back in the day 1 mechanic with a strong back could do it standing on the front bumper.

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Bars Leak radiator fix!

Put heavy cardboard on engine side of radiator first. If removing pump, leave fan attached. Fan bolts are a pain to remove in place.

 

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I replaced the water pump on my '39 ........the pump is not bad but getting the bolts started in the fan gave me fits.

Then I discovered that someone had stripped one of the bolts in the old fan and replaced it with a different bolt

Of course, when I tried to start that bolt in the new water pump it would not start....finally I discovered the difference and

found the correct bolt.

I did make a tool to help....since you must get the pulley and fan holes aligned,  I made a bullet nose pin soldered to a flat piece of stock

that allowed me to align the fan, pulley and water pump holes....with that in place I could start the other three.

Edited by Barney Eaton (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

Yesterday with the radiator and water pump still out, I poured 2 quarts muriatic acid into the water jacket to remove the rust. Boy that is some serious stuff. I removed the petcock during the rinse cycle to get a good rinse. Can't believe how fast muriatic acid removes rust.

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1 hour ago, Morgan Wright said:

I picked up the old radiator yesterday, they boiled it out, flushed it, fixed the leaks, and painted it! The NOS core I got on ebay had crushed corners and couldn't be used, I returned it.

Well, luckly your old one could be reused. Fine that you could return the faulty core. 

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Today I installed the radiator and new water pump, and all the rest, hoses, belt, etc. Car would not start because I had it outside with the hood off 3 days and it rained, and I forgot to cover the friggin carb. Now the engine is "flooded" but a different kind of flooded.

 

I guess take the spark plugs out and spin it and then let it all dry out a few days?

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10 hours ago, Morgan Wright said:

Today I installed the radiator and new water pump, and all the rest, hoses, belt, etc. Car would not start because I had it outside with the hood off 3 days and it rained, and I forgot to cover the friggin carb. Now the engine is "flooded" but a different kind of flooded.

 

I guess take the spark plugs out and spin it and then let it all dry out a few days?

 

 

check your engineoil for water.

Edited by -morten- (see edit history)
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I live on a huge long hill, about 1/4 mile it drops 250 feet elevation. To get the water out of the manifold/engine I rolled the car down the hill in 2nd gear with the ignition off and my foot to the floor. Near the bottom I turned the key on and the car started. This is AFTER I took out the spark plugs and cranked the engine a while, to get most of the water out.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On ‎8‎/‎20‎/‎2018 at 11:03 PM, Morgan Wright said:

I live on a huge long hill, about 1/4 mile it drops 250 feet elevation. To get the water out of the manifold/engine I rolled the car down the hill in 2nd gear with the ignition off and my foot to the floor. Near the bottom I turned the key on and the car started. This is AFTER I took out the spark plugs and cranked the engine a while, to get most of the water out.

 

 

no water in oil?

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