Fleetwood Meadow

1952 Cadillac Series 75

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9 hours ago, Janousek said:

 

You might want to install a bypass fuel filter near the carb with a return line to the tank.  All the Caddy A/C cars of this era ran a return off the fuel bowl.  Really helps eliminate vapor lock.   

1957 was the first year for the return line, for cars with A/C. The specific fuel filter body with the return line provision is not easy to find

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1 hour ago, Fleetwood Meadow said:

 The oil is full. Is this an oil pump issue or a bearing issue or something else? I don’t want to tear down that engine if I don’t have to. It runs so smoothly and sounds so good. 

The oil pump is seldom the reason for a low oil pressure. Before undertaking anything, you should let measure the oil pressure when warm. The oil pressure switch is not always a good indicator because they can fail and close the circuit for the lamp too early. However, if you are hearing some unusual noise when the lamp is on, there is some pressure loss. It's hard to tell where without opening the engine.

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5 hours ago, Fleetwood Meadow said:

So would the racing fuel, which I think is something like 110 octane lower the temperature 25 degrees to get the engine to 180?

That is very high octane so slower burning again. You want a low octane fuel. What was available when it was made? 73 RON?

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Posted (edited)

What oil are you using?... OK 10W-30. You could try a 5W-40 or ?W-50, but it sounds like you might have to look at the clearances in those bearings you put in and plasti-gauge them.

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

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Put a small pressure gage on the engine and check what the oil pressure really is.  You could have plasti-gaged the engine when it was apart as a cheap way to measure the clearances.  But.. if you have to pull the engine then just get the crank ground and put new bearings in it.   I also run straight 40w in a car like this unless it's driven in winter.  Might help your oil pressure for a while until you rebuild it again.  And recore the radiator while your rebuilding the engine.  I know I'm a broken record on the subject but it's from experience.  

 

The fuel filters with return line are readilly available from 5th avenue garage and I usually put a fitting in the sending unit for the return fuel.  You usually get by without the return if you have an electric backup pump like you have.  Run the filter if you really don't want to think about it.  

 

Roger is right the original fuel bowl with return is hard to find.  The filter will work or you can make make a fitting the top of your bowl.  The hole diameter is .50" or .90" for the restriction.  Not for sure which one.  

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I've enjoyed reading about your project, but it seems like you're jumping from job to job and never really finishing any of them. If the car runs right for 10 minutes, you seem to be assuming that all is good, take it for a drive, then something else goes wrong so you start working on the radio or the gas gauge. Getting it running properly should be your #1 priority. Gauges and radios can wait. Fixing bodywork can wait. If it doesn't run, those things are worthless anyway.

 

It seems to me you're having several problems at once with the engine. The most important thing is oil pressure, so you should have a gauge to verify what the pressure actually is rather than relying on an idiot light whose sending unit can go bad. If you don't have oil pressure, then fixing the carburetor won't matter.

 

Second, if it's making black smoke that's a carburetor problem--it's too rich. Blue smoke is oil, white smoke is coolant. White vapor is normal until the car is completely warmed up. Your plugs being fouled like that suggest either it's running pig rich or an oil leak, and my suspicion would be valve guides, not rings (did you do the valve guides when you rebuilt the engine?). If you had a ring problem, you'd have fuel in your oil pan as well as saturation in the cylinders. If the plugs were merely wet, not black and wet, then I'd think carburetor. It might be both--a small oil leak combined with a very rich condition that fouls the plugs. You may also have a weak ignition system--another piece of the puzzle. It is likely a combination of all of these things which you'll have to address one by one. You'll find that as you solve them, it gradually runs better and runs better for longer periods of time.

 

Third, if it's running hot, it may still be a timing or carburetor problem, but your radiator may also be struggling, your water pump may not be doing its job properly, or several other things up to and including the block is still full of gunk (most likely unless you had it hot tanked). The hot running can also affect both your ignition and carburetor, so you can see how randomly spot-fixing individual things isn't going to give you any real progress.

 

Focus on one issue at a time, get it completely resolved, then move on. Otherwise you're just spinning your wheels in the mud because each solution leads to solutions of the other problems. You can't really know if you have cooling system problems unless you have the engine running right. You can't get the engine running right if you don't have oil pressure. Etc.

 

Good luck, I'll keep watching!

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I tackled the speedometer cable today, it is essentially the wrong cable. I didn’t know that the cables inside the cable housing were different sizes. I took the gear out and checked it thinking it was broken or that some of the old cable was broken off in it but it wasn’t. So I put the old cable in it and tried to spin it without spinning the gear and it wouldn’t because it was the right size. I put the new cable in it and the cable spun inside the gear housing. So that means the cable I bought has a smaller diameter than the original and that was the problem. I checked the speedometer to make sure it will function and I checked that the gear was locked into place properly so when my new cable comes in everything should work properly. 

 

With that being all i could do with the speedometer I moved onto the rear door that I lit on fire. I still have some body work to do on it but at 90 degrees I wasn’t feeling it. I prepped the inside of the door to receive some sort of undercoating or bed liner material, something to help it not rust when water sits in it from a rain or washing the car. I left the drain hole alone so the water will exit when the door is opened. I had to weld a little of the bottom of the door to get the hole for the under door light screw to screw into properly. I know we all love pictures but I didn’t take any of it yet because I’ll do a before and after when I finally coat it. I found a replacement rubber boot for the door light too because it melted away when the door was on fire. I’ll put that back in after I coat the door. 

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While on a roll with fixing stuff I decided to replace the destroyed wires in the door. There were three of them: 2 for the in-door light that lights up the ground when you open the door and 1 for the window cylinder. The wire covering was completely gone on 2 of them. I thought they were going to be tricky to get at but I cut the wires at the door and then made new wires and snaked them back through the door. Now I have to find the metal covering that goes on the to protect them when the door is opened and closed. The metal connectors previously used were pretty interesting. I tested the wires and they worked great. I haven’t put the light back in so it is sitting in the door and since I have no cylinder in the door I can’t hook up that wire. And then finally I finished the wiring for the back seat controls by adding a ground wire to the driver’s side passenger cigar lighter. The cigar lighter itself doesn’t work but I tested it with one that does and it worked. It’s a shame that you can’t show videos here or I’d show that. Maybe I will make a YouTube page with links to it so you can see video progress. That may also help with diagnosing issues better than words can. 

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Fleetwood Meadow,  Matt is right about sticking to one  job at a time.Once one job is done and put to bed,, then go on to the next. It just makes things easier. doing great work on a cool Caddy. 

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Posted (edited)

Absolutely not my friends. Sticking to one job until the whole thing pisses you off and you give up is entirely ridiculous. You need to have little wins. I am fixing a door so that I can have windows. That is what I am sticking too. If I decide that that frustrates me I will move onto another thing and have success and feel rejuvenated to go back to finish them further. These cars are meant to be enjoyed and used, not hidden away dismantled for years while we pretend we are making progress. And certainly not sent out to get everything done by someone else then we pretend we did the work. And CERTAINLY not bought to be fixed up and sold again. These are my cars and I am fixing them how I see fit. And if I don’t have the money to play around with that engine I will certainly not stop working on the car until I do. Instead of telling me what I’m doing “wrong” perhaps you should be giving me credit for taking on this project at all. I’m 33 years old. I’m sorry I don’t have thousands of dollars set aside to rebuild an engine. I’m baffled how nobody was talking to me on this until a great guy said he enjoyed reading about my project, at a time when I was writing one last post then stopping the chronicle. It made my day so I continued with the posting. Then Matt comes in and said some great stuff that was positive but added a flawed thought which was don’t bother working on the rest of the car if the engine isn’t 100%. I ignored that part because that car has one hell of a strong engine and even though it has some issues it is still a serviceable engine. Now I’m getting votes to stop ALL other projects on that car because I haven’t stuck to playing with the engine? I’m sorry if this all sounds harsh but imagine being on my side. I am part of only a select amount of young classic car owners and it’s because when we try to reach out to people who have been working on them for years we are met with less than encouragement. I’m disappointed in anyone that does not applaud any little success made in getting these beautiful cars one step closer to being as great as they once were. And think about it, at least I’m not taking that great engine out and swapping it for an LS1..

Edited by Fleetwood Meadow
Spelling error correction. (see edit history)

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Fleetwood, bottom line this is your car, so you choose to work on it the way which is best for you. Everyone attacks a redo on an old car in a different way. Keep plugging away at your Caddy, you are definitely making progress!

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Fleetwood Meadow, I apologize if you had taken my post the wrong way. I was just passing advice that an older mechanic gave me when I started working on old cars as a kid. I have nothing but admiration for what you and everyone else is doing on the forum. Great work as always on both the Caddy and the Dodge. Thanks, John

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I dont mean to be picky but why did you use all red wires? Do you have a wiring diagram? Someone in the future maybe even you is going to be pretty angry when they try to fix those windows again and cant figure out what was done here. That car is worth doing things right. Costs more takes more time but always a better results.

 

You probly shouldn't take others advice as meaning to be mean to you. People here have alot of experience to share. Just because you dont agree does not mean they are wrong. Learning sometimes means setting aside what you already think you know and being openminded. Nobody expects you to need to be rich to do this but you can be poor and smart just as easy. Nobody said stop working if you cant fix one thing. They said chasing 2 or 3 related problems without solving any of them is not the best way to get a win as you say. I agree with that. If you think about it it makes alot of sense. Fixing cars is a process not a win lose thing.

 

You can accept knowledge without worrying about how its delivered. Thats ok. Nobody is insulting you. If they didnt care and didnt want you to succeed they wouldnt say anything or give you any help at all.

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To answer that question, it’s all I had. Today I decided to start tackling the rust inside the door so I could finish the door and put the new window cylinder in. I wire brushed the inside of the door then sprayed it with a rust reforming/converting spray. I then put the wires in the channel and moved onto the next door to remove the cylinder assembly and rewire it. Now both rear doors are rewired and sprayed with a rust converting agent. My next step is to apply the bed liner stuff to the inside of the door so when it rains or the car is washed the water won’t sit on the metal and the moisture won’t start to rust it. Then I will put the new window cylinders into the assemblies and the new rubber lines to them and move to the front doors and front seat cylinder. I bought a coil of black wire and attempted to make a differentiation between the two wires that go to the light in the door. Now the hot cylinder wire and initial hot wire to the light are red and the tail end wire is black. 

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My experience is that tape like that will come undone. I would use heat shrink to cover that bare wire. The more you stretch the tape, the sooner it comes undone.

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Posted (edited)

Have you considered hooking up a test gage to watch oil pressure. If you could tie near the pump you could check oil pump pressure. If you use a long enough hose you could hold it in a spot you could view while driving.  If you then tap i near a crank gallery you can perhaps see the rod bearing pressure. It may be fluctuating based on a large bearing clearance. Look on youtube for plastigage and how to use it. You can measure you bearing clearances. Cold oil is thicker and can fill the enlarged clearances. As it gets hot it gets thinner. Then oil pressure drops at the enlarged clearances. What oil viscosity are you running? You may get away with 20W50 oil and keep pressures up?

Edited by keithb7 (see edit history)

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Spinneyhill, I agree with you on the heat shrink. I like using it but I didn’t have any. The closest stores to me are 45 minutes away so when I run out of stuff it’s not a quick run to the store I have to improvise on several things. That has been my fear about the tape as well. To combat that I wrap it one way, overlapping, then overlap it wrapping it the opposite way then 3 laps in one place generally to make it harder for it to just untangle. Where these wires are connected they are under a cover that has no clearance so they can’t move and don’t have really any chance for them to unravel. The next time I get to the store I will be getting some heat shrink to go over single wires like this. 

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Keith, I’m using 10w-30 currently in the car. I have an oil pressure gauge that I am going to use to test the engine pressure. I get a little confused on oils because it was my understanding that this oil starts off thin and then gets thicker as it gets warm. Someone suggested using straight 30 weight and it may help. I have added Lucas oil to thicken it but the warning light still comes on when going slow in 4th gear or at idle when the engine warms up. When the engine is cold the light does not come on. 

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Posted (edited)

Oil does not get thicker as it heats up. The exact opposite occurs. Think of cold butter versus warm butter left on the counter in summer.  Oil’s ability to flow in both cold and high temps is measured by a viscosity index.  A multi viscosity oil shows two ratings. For example 10W30. The 10 number would be its ability to flow when cold. For the sake of this discussion lets say the “W” means winter. 10 when cold in the winter! 

 

If you had a 5W30 or a 0W30 it would flow better when cold. The lower the first number, the better the oil flows when very cold. Remember oil is thicker when cold. 

 

The second number in our example, the 10 is the high temperature flow (viscosity) rating. The higher this number, the thicker the oil stays when it get hot. So a 20W50 would be a bad oil in cold weather but a good choice in hot temp conditions. Say, an air cooled engine for example. It gets hot! The 50 weight would stay nice and thick, which we want, when its hot. 

 

Back in the old days, I suspect  chemists had not likely perfected a multi-viscosity oil yet.  Nor a detergent oil. A straight 30W has to try and perform well in all temps. It does not perform as well when compared to a multi-viscosity oil in wide temp ranges. 

 

If you drive your car all summer, I’d certainly consider trying 20W50 in it. Especially if you have incorrect engine bearings installed. 

I would not run this oil into the cooler temps in the fall. Nor winter. At cold winter engine starts, the thick oil cannot moving to important galleries quickly. 

 

Edited by keithb7 (see edit history)

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The book says 20 weight oil in all seasons except under 32 degrees, then use 10 weight so I was wary of going all the way up to 50 weight oil. That won’t cause an issue inside the engine being so much higher than original?

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Posted (edited)

Here is a chart showing various oil viscosity and temp ranges.  It’s in celsius. Not farenheit.  0C cel is 32F if I recall. 

 

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Considering the year of the car, the condition of the engine, the tolerances, and low oil pressure issues, I’d be game to try heavier oil. Not my car tho so you can decide. 

Edited by keithb7 (see edit history)

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Posted (edited)

Jumping the gun a little, I had a couple minutes to do some body work and for the sake of giggles I painted the bare metal with some black lacquer I had in the garage. I can see why they were mainly painted black. However, when I bought the blue parts car, in the trunk there was quart of some old old paint which matched the car. It is a blue that is very pretty in the sun. Way down the road when I paint the car I’m going to get them to try to match the color.

 

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Edited by Fleetwood Meadow
Took closer picture of blue metal. (see edit history)

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