Fleetwood Meadow

1952 Cadillac Series 75

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We do but they are very limited around me. The radio is pretty far down on my things to fix. When I’m comfortable enough with the car I’ll take it 30 minutes to a radio station I know of. Last night I took out the window pump and freed it. It spins with power connected to it but the lines are all gone because of the brake fluid they used in them so I will have to replace them. It’s getting cold and my garage doesn’t have heat so working time is limited. 

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Well I wanted to include some videos but it won’t let me do it. I got the wipers working today. I used an old trick of putting brake fluid into the wiper motor and moving it back and forth to lubricate and soften the rubber inside. They say ATF is better but I didn’t have any. I got the rear defroster motor and underwear heater working but not the two motors under the rear seat. I also added some fluid to the window motor which GM creatively named MOTOVATOR and bench tested it. The fluid shot out of the open line I had attached. It appears to be ready to go back in, except one of the rubber mounts is broken. I’m going to try to get one from the parts car I have. My intention was to get some lights working but I have no power going to the rear half of the cabin. The book wiring diagram says it shows for all Cadillacs but must only show stuff that all of the cars share so I will have to either try to trace wires or find a diagram that shows the schematics. 

Edited by Fleet Meadow
Misspelled name of pump (see edit history)

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The windows all go up and down now. I believe the motor needs to be rebuilt though because once one window goes up I have to wait about 3-5 minutes before putting another one up. If I don’t the motor cuts out. I found my short that was plaguing me. When the rear doors would open the power to the rear controls would stop working. All of the wires seemed to be intact. I couldn’t turn on the dome light by the switches at the B pillar and at the rear seats. After some testing I found that the current was backfeeding into the dashboard. I replaced all of the wires leading under the carpet from the rear to the dashboard. One of the wires was snapped inside the harness. Once I replaced those the rear had power whether the door was opened or closed. The passenger side door light turned on when the door was opened. The driver’s side door doesn’t turn on but I am thinking that it is a bulb that needs to be replaced. And I can turn the dome light on by the B pillar switch. I broke the rear seat switch so I can’t test that. I started working on the underseat heaters. The front heater works great, the rear blower turns on. The rear underseat heaters are frozen so I need to take them out and clean them. I killed the battery so I had to call it a day. The car looks like a mess right now with the wires and tools everywhere and the seats out. ?

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Edited by Fleet Meadow
Added picture (see edit history)
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The next day, after I wrote that the motor might need to be rebuilt I remembered that I had alcohol in the line instead of brake fluid, per shop manual instructions to flush the lines. I drained it and put brake fluid in the reservior. Now the windows went up and down repeatedly with no problems. I hadn’t thought about how the alcohol was going to have no lubricity and was going to cause so much friction in the motor. So in my pleasure of having windows I all of a sudden heard this hissing when the motor was working. I looked around and found brake fluid all over passengers side floor. Apparently one of the lines split and sprayed fluid everywhere when the pump is running. Unfortunately for me it’s the line running from the back to the front and is hiding in the wood area on the side of the seat and i can’t see the pipe where it is leaking. 

 

On a good note, I installed 30’ of heater hose from the firewall to the front underseat heat to the rear underseat heater, to the other rear underseat heater to the firewall again and now have heat. The bad side is one of the rear underseat heaters is frozen and smoking. 

 

While on a roll I decided to finally open the 6 month old box of exhaust I had custom made from a company that advertises on eBay. I specified what car it was going on and they said they could do it. I got the big mufflers and the resonators like I wanted. I put the first pipe from the header on and went to install the muffler except the pipe doesn’t reach where the muffler has to sit. It’s about 8” short. So I went to the store and got a pipe and clamps since the box came without clamps and instructions. I put it on and tried to get the muffler on. It won’t go on because the first pipe is bent too much and angled out towards the frame. So I uncoupled everything and decided to try to dry fit things. Not one pipe is angled right. And nowhere is there a place for the resonators. The last pipe makes a sharp turn at the end towards the fender. Unfortunately it’s supposed to lead out the rear bumper. So now I have pipes that do nothing and no mufflers on the car. I don’t have any tube benders so I called a couple garages and they “don’t want to make an exhaust from scratch.” So that was $550 well spent.. At least I now have the mufflers and resonators, I just need to get someone to connect them to the car. One thing that puzzles me is, shouldn’t there be some sort of flexible pipe connecting the slightly moving engine to the rigid tail pipes connected to the non-moving body?

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Years ago, I ordered an exhaust system from a company in Florida (they may be out of business now) for a '48 or '49 Buick. By chance, I had access to a metal construction shop and I could correct the many bents which were wrong.

For what I heard, Waldron exhaust is more reliable You may ask them for the pipes.

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I think the flexible mountings for the exhaust obviate the need for a flexible pipe?

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So after finally getting in touch with the exhaust guy he explained some of the pipes so I could put them together. The bends aren’t 100% but I got them all in. It’s amaxing how quiet the car is now. If I could put a video here I would. But I’m sure everyone knows what a quiet car sounds like. Next on the agenda will be to adjust the engine with the new exhaust in, as well as a new pipe for the vacuum advance. I heard this ticking that got worse as I drove faster and I got terrified that the engine had a tick and I just hadn’t heard it before because the engine was so loud. Then it finally dawned on me when I stopped at a stop sign and the ticking stopped, it’s the speedometer cable spinning. The speedometer stopped working the last time I drove it and the cable must have broken just enough to not spin the speedometer but still tap the back of it. There is an interesting noise in the engine but I can’t determine what it is. And I have no idea how to describe it at the moment. It’s not a ticking, it’s more of a hissing but it’s not coming from the radiator and nothing is pouring out. It sounds like it’s inside the block. 

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Hissing might be the carburettor. Take the air cleaner off and it will get worse. Mine sounds like an old cistern valve closing when I lift off.

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Normal. The first "air cleaners" were actually called carburettor silencers. They hid the hissing and also the roar from the carburettor when you open the throttle = the "power roar"

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I decided the other week to take out the wife and a friend of mine on a nice rainy night to show them how cool the car is. We are driving all over and then I take off and the car stumbles and stalls. I stop and it starts back up. At the end of the road it does it again. The next road it stalls and won’t start again. So in the rain we pushed the car to a parking lot. I opened the hood and looked in the fuel bowl and it’s empty. So even though my gauge was reading full it was empty. I had been playing with the sending unit because it was reading a quarter of a tank when it was empty. After i got gas it started right up and I went home. Upon further investigation I discovered that the sending unit had lost ground. In the parking lot I put 5 gallons in the tank. I then drove the 4-5 miles home. When I applied ground it showed empty. I put another 5 gallons and it went up to just above the empty line. I have no idea where it will show when it is full but at least I will know I have at least 5 gallons of gas when the tank is at empty. 

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Aha! I found the leak in the tube. I decided in the my last warm day before the snow to tackle the window problem. I tried to move the front seat forward to get access behind it but it didn’t move. So I removed the cylinder/spring mechanism from the seat and tried to move it but it didn’t let me see behind it. So that’s when the bolts came off and the seat was removed from the floor. But Cadillac put this cute little piece of fabric from the back of the seat to the partition behind it so i couldn’t move it away from the area I was working. I ended up taking off the top trim on the partition and removing the nails holding the fabric on. Then it was time to take what someone else on this forum called a “fender” which covered the space between the partition and the back of the seat. I lowered a window to see exactly where it leaks and it’s about an inch from the bend. I’m not sure why they bent it to run towards the middle of the car to bend back to the same place it would have been if it had stated straight. I had to notch out the wood to get to the coupling. I haven’t decided if I want to go further with the disassembly and try to find the rest of the pipes and replace them or just replace this one and be able to use the car with it’s windows working. The other pipe goes up into the wood and then into the B pillar before turning and going into the rear door. While I was in there I cleaned the 50 year old mess that the mice made and out popped the mummied mouse in the picture. 

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The new window pipe is in. I hooked up the battery and pushed the switch. The window motor spun a very small amount and now the relay clicks like a starter with a dead battery. So now I have to determine what the problem is, whether it is a connection issue or inside the motor. It worked in November when I parked the car and the motor spins by hand but it wont spin on its own. Taking it out of the car is a hassle so I'm trying to explore options to fix it without taking it out. If the snow would stop I could take it out of the garage and get the windows operating then fill it with gas and see if the gas tank gasket that I fixed sealed the tank. Then it is on the brakes to adjust them properly so I don't need to pump the pedal twice to get brake pressure.

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Posted (edited)

I took the pump out of the car. With it all apart I didn’t see much of anything jumping out so I cleaned the metal between the windings, the armature, and the metal where the brushes rise (the name of that area escapes me.) I took the brushes off and cleaned them along with the area that they sit. I also retwisted the wire connected to the brushes. I tested the continuity and things seemed different than I had expected so I took the housing from the parts car and tested it and it seemed right. I cleaned that and put it on and tested it and sure enough it worked. So I went to put it in and when loosening the nut on the relay it snapped the stud. Since the original relay worked I started taking off the broken relay only to snap the bolt in the housing. So it all had to come apart. I put the other housing back on and closed it all up. When I tested it the pump ran very quickly and shot fluid out of it. So back in the car it went. 

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Edited by Meadowfleet
Added pictures. (see edit history)
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I turned on the pump and found a broken line right at the firewall so I replaced that and turned put every window up. They went up very quickly. The driver’s rear window stays open 1/2” though. The underseat cylinder sprays fluid when it’s fully extended. 2 of the other cylinders leak slightly down themselves also. I’m hoping that if I use them a little the rubber will swell inside and they won’t leak. 

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I took the firewall heater out of the parts car and took the heater core out of it. It’s a rear hassle to get at, I’m assuming these were an early-days throw away and replace part based on how it is constructed. The whole thing is plug and play. The heater in my green car leaks as soon as the system builds up pressure. So I figured that since I have another one I can explore the options or replacing the core. Every screw had to come out in order to allow clearance of the heater core to come out. I took it to the sink and flushed the pipes. That’s when I noticed this one leaks too. There are 4 holes at the bottom of it opposite the inlets. I am going to send it out and get it repaired then I will attempt to replace it in the green car heater box. In the pictures it is wet from me washing off the dirt and it leaking. 

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These are pictures of the parts car heater including the heater core that is shown in the previous post. 

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Posted (edited)

I went out to move the windows up and down to see how they handled. The seat cylinder didn’t leak anymore. The front windows went up and down perfectly. The front passenger cylinder still leaks as it is going up though. The rear windows don’t have the large spring to move them down and the switches don’t work back there so I could only pull the drivers rear down. It worked great but leaks. And then I saw the big puddle under the door. The line in the door has let go. So it is another line to replace. I think I’m going to buy a roll of tubing and make as many new lines as I can access. The. I will know the lines are good. 

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Edited by Meadowfleet
Added pictures (see edit history)
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I have finally figured out the shorting issue in the rear of the car. Whenever I would open the rear doors the interior light would turn on but the window switches would no longer work. With the doors closed I would press a switch and nothing would work in regards to the windows but the interior light and light under the door would turn on very dim. I spent the last 3 hours tracing wires and using different lead wires to pinpoint the problem. It turned out to be the hot wire coming from the front of the car. It was broken in half. Somehow it was grabbing power from the dome light, I’m assuming, because when I took wires off and tested them individually they would all turn on the dome light. I am going to replace as much of the wire as I can access because the harness is covered in brake fluid from when the window line broke. With that being figured out, and I found the driver’s side door light wire, the puzzle is complete and I should have a fully functioning electrical system. I do not know if the brake fluid is what ate through the wire or helped corrode it or if it was coincidence. In the pictures I have the broken wires tied together to confirm that I figured out the problem. I also found the tag for the rear seat when I flipped it over. I thought that was pretty cool. The circle says Dennison Mfg Co USA. The numbers say 52 81, which is a commercial chassis isn’t it?

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The radio works! Well sort of. I wish I could add video so it could be heard. The radio has a Selector bar so it scans for the signal. I can hear random voice and music sounds but it doesn’t stop of any of the stations. The car is in the garage so that might be why but I’m excited; it’s the first time I’ve heard sound come out of it. I’ve had it one several times before but never with any sound. 

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My heater core came in. It looks like he replaced the whole core and kept the housing and outlet tubes. He must have even found a hole in one of them! Not looking forward to putting it back in. 

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