IDLE

[B C]

So my 89 with 45xxxmiles is having some issues. Lately while accelerating from a stop its very jerky starting until it gets going. Also, the idle seems all over the places, shakes and fluctuating rpms of about 50~. Im not sure if it has to do with anything but i always notice the OIL PRESSURE reads very high, even sitting at idle it constantly fluctuates around 40 PSI, and rarely reads low, even while cruising. I replaced this part about 3 year ago and its done the same thing the whole time, not sure if that has something to do with the idle or not.

Im wondering if i should spend money on this vehicle... if so, where should I start? 
I know theres a bunch of knowledge in this forum and If someone wants to help out making sure shes running smooth again, id really appreciate it, maybe even a paid phone call?

Thanks so much

[Ronnie]

The car is low mileage so if the body is in good condition it should be worth spending some money to get it fixed. I see you are Canadian so if it's rusted out all bets are off. The oil pressure problem sounds like a bad oil pressure sender. I understood you to say it was replaced a few years ago but it could still be bad. The senders fail frequently.

 

Without knowing the history of the car I would think the problem with accelerating and running is likely to be an ignition system problem from what you describe. A good tuneup with new spark plug wires and a new O2 sensor might help.

[B C]

I guess because I already have 13000 into the car, I'm hesitant to put more in. It's got no rust at all. It's about a 7/10. I have it posted for sale at 4k and I've had no one even come look at it. 

 

I noticed yesterday it was doing it all through first gear.. Like accelerating was jerky all the way til it shifted to second. It was worst at starting and just before the shift. 

Is the pressure sensor giving vital information to the engine or can I leave it? 

 

[Ronnie]

The oil pressure sender shouldn't have any bearing on how the engine runs but it could account for the oil pressure fluctuating.  Basic troubleshooting, done in a logical manner, is needed to determine why the engine is running poorly.  Fuel Pressure Testing  might shed some light on why it isn't running good.

 

You have t keep in mind that no matter what you have spent on a car, it has little impact on what a potential buyer is willing to pay. If the car is running a poorly as what you describe you will have a much harder time selling it. Just my 2 cents.

[DAVES89]

I don't know how mechanical you are but I would try a couple of no/low cost options. As you have a 30 year old car with 45,000 miles you could have old gas that has clogged your fuel injectors and only clear out under full throttle. Around here a professional fuel injection service is around $100.00.

 The other thing that could be your issue is your ignition module/coil pack. Remove the harness to it [7mm] then the three nuts on the underside [11mm] and clean the top of the mounting plate and the bottom of the ignition module [one nut is hard to get to, I leave it off on reassembly].

 One or the other [or both] could clear up your acceleration issue. I'm betting on the injectors. 

[Ronnie]

While you have the ignition module off inspect it for grey/green goo running down the side. That is a sure sign that it is going bad.

 

[padgett]

There is a lot here on maintenance. Personally I always replace the Magnavox ignition with a Delco and erratic idle is typically and IAC that needs cleaning. Oill pressure sender is two part: the gauge sender which really is irrelevant and the switch witch may control the fuel pump.

 

A failing ignition can feel like anything but is most commonly a misfire under load, again I'd replace with a Delco ignition, new plug wires, and new platinum or iridium plugs. The Delco can handle an /060 gap but would not go over .045 with a Magnavox.

 

45k is nothing for a 3800 drivetrain given proper maintenance.

 

I'd also put the car on a lift and check the vacuum modulator for oil in the vacuum line and same for the fuel regulator except check for gas.

 

If here I'd instrument to see what is going on. Where are you ?

 

Personally am glad my Reattae have not appreciated. They suit me and like driving them. Great road cars & insurance is not expensive.

[B C]

Thanks for everyones reply! I think the first step will be to check the ignition coils and such because those were from a used vehicle, as I put the upgraded newer coil pack on. 

I've been driving the car on and off with a mix of premium and injector cleaner the last couple years, so I don't think that would be a problem? The fuel filter was also replace a few years ago and since has only been driven less than 10000 miles. I've also done plugs, wires, air filter, cleaned the IAC, maf (and all around that area. I'm quite sure I've also cleaned the egr valve. 

I'm fairly mechanically inclined, but electrical is a whole other issue. The last time I ran an oil pressure test with a mechanical gauge, it read properly. It won't even read low at idle and increase with speed, most of the time the pressure reads higher while idling and lower while cruising. I have noticed fuel consumption has increased and it feels less powerful, maybe some brand new coils are a good idea. 

On another note, I've been having issues with the brakes and volts dropping to low 13s or even 12 while applying the brakes, and all the lights will dull blink like there's a large draw... But that's a whole other issue haha. 

[padgett]

Well the brake pump pulls a few amps but should not affect anything else. I'd suggest an alternator load test. Dash voltage should be above 13v at all times if alternator is working properly.

[B C]

padgett, It reads 14- 14.2 volts cold, then 13.7 - 13.8 running temp. 

[Ronnie]

17 hours ago, B C said:

I've been having issues with the brakes and volts dropping to low 13s or even 12 while applying the brakes, and all the lights will dull blink like there's a large draw...

 

I had that problem once. My brake warning lights would flicker on, the instrument panel lights would flicker on and off and the CRT looked weird. Sometimes the engine didn't' want to start although the battery was fully charged. It turned out that my battery cable wasn't tight against the battery and making a good connection even though the bolt  was tight. You can read about it here.

 

Here is a link that will describe how to fix the problem. Battery Cable Checks & Repair