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Posted

Hi , I have an opportunity to make an offer on a 53 3100 pickup. It's all original except for a 12volt conversion. It's owned by an elderly man and it's been sitting for at least 13 years that I'm sure of. I want to make a fair offer to the gentleman but I have no idea on how to determine current value. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

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Posted

Is it a long bed or short bed?  Does it run? Any rust? What part of the country are you in?  They are worth more in the North east than mid or south west.  It will need brakes and tires gone through to make it driveable as well as the fuel system.  Figure on spending another 1000. or so if that's all you need to do,  more if it needs a gas tank or anything else.  That's if you can do the work yourself,  if not,  double that or maybe even a it more.  If the engine needs to be rebuilt that can be a killer.  I think they run around $4000 to rebuild.  

I had a 49 3100 series I sold a couple of years ago.  Turn key condition with no rot but a couple of relatively small older metal repairs,  all new brakes and tires with everything working.  It was a very reliable driver.  So much that the guy that bought it when he came to look at it,  Late fall, was amazed at how well it started then ran.  It literally after sitting 2 weeks,  didn't even make a complete revolution of the engine and it was running.  That may have been one of the factors that sold it. 

 I got about 10G out of it.  I would say sitting as this is if you are really sure won't need the engine rebuilt would be worth around 5500 to 7500 depending on the location.  Really hard to say with a few dusty photos.   That's if the body is really nice.  These don't have to have perfect paint so just presentable as most guys like to use them.  I would want to buy it on the low end,  as you are taking the risk in how well it will run and if the engine needs to be rebuilt it will come out of your pocket.   

The shortbed is most desirable and I would say the long bed,  knocks around a grand off the values I stated.  It's pretty easy to find comps on line.  1948-1953 Are almost identical so values for any of them can be compared.  Some have told me the 5 window (which this truck is) are more desirable,  though the 3 windows seems to be just as popular and no one interested in my truck,  walked away because it was only a 3 window.   I wouldn't have sold it if I hadn't already bought a 47 Hudson pickup to replace it with. 

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Posted

What's it worth to you? You are the sole arbiter of what a "good price" might be. If you're happy with the deal you make, then it's a win. There is no "market price" for a project. I think Auburnseeker is in the right neighborhood given that the mechanicals are an unknown. Give some thought to what you can realistically afford and what your plans are with the truck, budget accordingly, and make an offer that fits that budget. If he says no, well, you've lost nothing. There's no shortage of these trucks around at reasonable prices, and if this one doesn't work out there will be another. Put your best offer out there and see what he says. If he says yes, don't second-guess yourself, take the truck and start having fun.

 

The fun part is the important part. 

  • Like 1
Posted

This one is in North Georgia and is a short bed. No rust to be seen except a little surface spots on the chrome bumper. It does not run right now. Seals on the glass show some signs of cracking and a little dry rot.  My first order of business if I do get it will be trying to do a brake conversion on it if possible. I'd like to go with a 4 wheel disc system if I can. I already know all fluids will have to be changed out as well. Tires need replacing as well. Not looking to do a full on restoration, rather a nice daily driver. My gut feeling is to offer between 4 and 5 thousand mainly because it hasn't been molested. And I'm also aware of the possibility of having to look at a replacement motor or rebuild.

 

Posted

The 4 wheel disc conversion with the original drivetrain is a waste of time.  This truck even with the 4 speed in stock form is probably good for about 50 MPH and a little more if you really want to flog that 6.  A fully restored set of factory brakes will stop it quite adequately.  The conversion will probably give you more headaches than you want.  If you plan on putting a V8 and everything else in it and aren't a real good mechanic / engineer buy one already done you can test drive.  There is more engineering to modifying something from stock than alot of people understand.   Craigslist is full of cars that are 80 to 90 percent there.  It takes alot to get that last 10 percent right. 

Let us know how you make out.  Cab corners,  and the cowl where the fenders bolt as well as driver's side floor and the bottom of the steel kick panels rot out in these trucks first as well as the rear fenders where the running boards bolt. 

They are a mail order truck otherwise and you can buy every part for them with just about one phone call.  

  • Like 2
Posted

Depending on how you are planning to use it,  Maybe see if you can find someone that will let you ride along in theirs to see which you want.  Old original and slow which has a vibe and is alot of fun or a fast hot rod,  without any soul.  There are plenty of both worlds out there.  I can appreciate both and have had both.  (my bone stock 49 3100) and a Shortbed Fleetside 66 with a 454 and turbo 400,   which ironically still had stock brakes and would lock the 10 inch wide rubber up with no problem, Lucky for that deer that was darn near a hood ornament)   It's all in what you plan on doing with it.  Also ask those owners why they like it that way and what would they improve upon or not touch.  

  • Like 1
Posted

I to have had and been around a lot of these pickups. Stock they are a great truck to drive,work with or just have fun with. I too have owned bone stock and modified versions of these trucks. Practically every part you could need for this truck is reproduced or available in good condition in large quantities. There is much in Auburnseeker's "without a soul" comment and I agree with it 100%. To rust issue places I'd add the seam on the back of the cab below the rear window(s) and the bed rails where they meet the bed sides. So my 2 cents worth says if the guy accepts your offer grab it. Do what's needed to make it SAFE and road worthy and go have fun with it. With a little soap and water applied you'll have a real eye catcher. Good Luck !!   

Posted

Quick update. The gentlemen that owns it feels its worth far, far more than I ever imagined . I thanked him for his time , turned and left. For the first time it felt good to walk away without something I wanted. Oh well I suppose that's part of the fun with these old rides the search and the negotiations. I do appreciate everyone's advice.

Posted

Just curious what he though it was worth?  

Good thing is there is no shortage of supply and with a little diligence you can find a nice turn key one reasonable,  you just need to kind of have your finances in order,   because when one comes on the market and seems like a deal,  won't last long, so you need to be able to act quick. 

Good luck in your search. 

Posted

 He felt it's worth well over 12. In running condition maybe, but after doing research I spotted more problem areas which would have to be addressed on the body.

Posted

There are to many of these fish in the ocean to be paying that much money for that particular truck. Keep your line in the water and I'm certain you'll hook something in as good as or better condition for less money. As with fishing patience is the key. I totally agree with auburnseeker on the finance comment. You'll probably have to throw a few back before the one that is right for you is hooked. Good luck with your search.  

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Smart to walk until a better one comes along. Shouldn't be hard to find one when you are ready.  Let us know when that time comes,  as we all see stuff for sale,  and might have a lead for you.  It's a good time to step back and decide what one you really want.  Stock or  hot Rod or resto mod,  with these you can even be a tad fussy and pick colors and configurations.  A long bed 3/4 ton is going to be cheaper.  But if you really want a short bed 1/2 ton,  then don't settle for a different one.  Lots of things to consider.  The good part,  is if you find one and tire of it,  you can probably unload it pretty easy if it's a good turnkey example even with patina,  as long as the price is reasonable.  Everyone loves them. 

Edited by auburnseeker (see edit history)
  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

I would probably have left my number with the seller and let him know a price that I was comfortable with, and if he did not sell it for his price and got to my price to give me a call.  Never know.  I have gotten a couple of vehicles that way.  Just wish him well in trying to get his price and be nice.

Edited by Larry Schramm (see edit history)
Posted

Some one once told me a nice way to make an offer for something is be sincere about it,  but tell them this is what I have to offer you,  or what I can afford to pay you right now for it.  This is a friendly way of making an offer without saying it's only worth this.  No one wants to be told what there car is worth, especially when less than they want to sell it for, but it puts their mind to thinking.  Maybe you will get a call later,  maybe not.  As time wears on and no buyers come round,  the price will most likely be adjusted until it sells, especially if it ever becomes an estate type of thing where it needs to be disposed of. 

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