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Posted

I replaced the photocell in the dash and the console lights now work and my dimmer switch works!  I have been reluctant to start this project but with the help of the how to section in the Reatta Owner's Journal I was able to pull it off.

The lighted buttons to the left and right of the instrument panel still don't work though.  Back to the Journal for more advice.

I did purchase a used power inverter at the same time I got the photocell.  I can see the old one just under the driver side A pillar but I bet it is impossible to get to from above.

I took a lot of pics on this project and will post them up tomorrow along with some tips.

 

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Posted

Good for you. Hopefully you made "the tool" to remove the top pad. While you had the top pad off that would have been the time to replace the inverter. While you can get it from the bottom, wrap your arm good as there are sharp edges that can scrape or cut, it is easy from the top. Just reach down and grab it and give a sharp pull and the clip on the inverter will break off. Then swap out the inverter and push it down as far as it will go and let it "hang" amongst the wires. That way if you need to swap it again it is easier from the bottom. 

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Posted

The top cover is still off.  I probably could have replaced the converter last night but I had to watch the Batchelorette!

I had to laugh at this statement in my FSM:  "Gently pull grille straight up to remove".  Yeah right.  What about the plastic pieces that hold it in place?  See pic.

 

 

 

 

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Posted

There are 3 Torx screws that hold the top of the dash in after removing the defroster grille.  One at each end and one in the middle.  I got the defroster grille removed by prying it out with a short flat head screw driver.  I was surprised about how much it would bend without breaking!  Pic of the dash cover and the "new" sensor:

 

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Posted

I am not concerned with the looks of my dash cover as the car came with a nice gray felt cover already installed.  It appears that Bubba glued it on.  Glue has dried out and now it fits on there by gravity.

There is a small vent grille in the middle of the cover where the "in car temp sensor"  and its aspirator hose attach with 10mm speed nuts to plastic studs.  One of mine broke off.

 

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Posted

Some tips:  My 88 is 30 years old and resided in Phoenix most of its life.  The plastic parts are brittle and the padded portion of the dash cracks/crumbles easily.  If you do not have a fabric dash cover I would suggest you purchase one to cover this mess up after the job is done.  If you do happen to bust the defroster grille when prying it out then it can readily be fixed with plastic or super glue.

There is a foam pad that attached under the dash that was surprisingly intact.

Take your time and follow the instructions in the Reatta Owner's Journal.  You can do this!

Now on to the inverter!

 

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Posted

I was able to get the dash inverter replaced before lunch although I have not tested it yet.  It was fairly easy with the dash cover removed.  I cut the plastic attachment nub with a utility knife and then fished out the inverter with a claw grabber.

I almost forgot to unhook the battery.  I'm not ready to fry anything so I feel it was worth the effort even if I do have to reset the clock, radio stations and the HVAC info.

Pics are of the "new" inverter, a pointer to the location of the old one and my claw.  

 

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Posted

Well, that was a bust.  I still have no lights to make the buttons on the pods to the left and right of the speedometer stand out at night.  The "on" light does light up on the ones that turn the lights on and off.  I just discovered that the dimmer switch will turn the interior lights on when it is slid all the way to the right.

I tested the inverter I had removed with the directions from the ROJ and it works as it should.

Next job is to replace the console inverter if I can find one.

Posted

The console inverter will not make the headlight/wiper pods light up. The console inverter is for the console lights which you now have working so that is good.

 You might need a different headlight switch to make the pod lights work. However you can try this. Turn off the Fog light switch at the console and try flicking the stalk from dims to brights a couple of times. If that doesn't work turn the fog light button on the console back on and try floicking from brights to dims. 

 I have one Headlight switch that acts up now and then and that is what I do for it. [Just can't remember the sequence]. 

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Posted

Thank you for the advice Dave!  I can now drive the car safely at night.  All lights work as they should!

I would like to recommend replacing the dome light bulb with an LED bulb.  What a difference this makes in being able to see things inside the car.  No more Mr Magoo!

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