rodneybeauchamp

Is this correct for ‘38 Special

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Have just put back the radiator and water pump and just about to pop this thermostat housing back on. Thermostat tested ok and all brass spring thingy cleaned up. 

 

Can someone confirm that the spring thingy it’s assembled correctly as I have just put it back how I found it ( sorta)

starting from top

 

brass pin spindle

thermostat housing

thin brass washer

mushroom cup spring holder with stem ????

spring

spring cup

brass washer

split pin

thanks

Rodney ?????

 

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443D58F7-EE3D-4A02-801B-778B01408E60.jpeg

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While that looks correct, I would suggest that you would be better off if you made a common modification to the bypass valve. If the spring is too weak, or weakens over time, you will have an overheating problem. A common modification is to replace the bypass valve assembly with a freeze plug with a 1/4" or so hole drilled in the center to allow a trickle of water to pass through but no more. An easier way to fix it would be to disassemble it and then reassemble it with a short piece of metal fuel line over the center shaft so that the valve assembly cannot be compressed. Brian DePouli suggested that method to me. Somewhere in my 1938 Model 61 Restoration thread you will find that explained along with photos. 

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Looks correct except you need to use a brass cotter pin since the steel one will rust overtime.

 

Steve D

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On 6/16/2018 at 10:43 PM, MCHinson said:

While that looks correct, I would suggest that you would be better off if you made a common modification to the bypass valve. If the spring is too weak, or weakens over time, you will have an overheating problem. A common modification is to replace the bypass valve assembly with a freeze plug with a 1/4" or so hole drilled in the center to allow a trickle of water to pass through but no more. An easier way to fix it would be to disassemble it and then reassemble it with a short piece of metal fuel line over the center shaft so that the valve assembly cannot be compressed. Brian DePouli suggested that method to me. Somewhere in my 1938 Model 61 Restoration thread you will find that explained along with photos. 

 

Hi Matthew,

thank you for the suggestion and to the lead to your restoration topic, was not aware of it and spent an hour or so last night enjoying the read. BTW I did recognise a rusty front license plate bracket too! ?????

 

My question is .....

can you or others chime in as to why the modification works as my brass springy thing and bits all look in good order? Always happy to improve things but not sure how this one works ?????

 

One thing I may do is to use a brass freeze plug ( we call them Welch or Welsh plugs down under???) instead of the plated.

 

You also mentioned a distributor up grade, can you let me know where I get info on that too!

 

Rodney ???????

On 6/16/2018 at 11:12 PM, SteveBigD4 said:

Looks correct except you need to use a brass cotter pin since the steel one will rust overtime.

 

Steve D

 

Steve, your right. The original brass one was very weak so used a new steel one. Will see if I can locate a brass or stainless one.

cheers

Rodney ????????

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The bypass valve modification mirrors the change that Buick came up with a few years later when they eliminated the bypass valve. In theory allowing the bypass valve to open and allow coolant to bypass the radiator for quick warm up of the engine is a good idea. In the real world is was somewhat problematic.

 

The distributor upgrade allows the plate to rotate easily and with less potential for problems due to lack of maintenance with the small ball bearings. I ordered it and now for the confession... I put it back together with the original equipment while I was waiting for the part to arrive, and since it works fine with the original equipment I have not taken the time to install it, so the new part is sitting on the shelf for now. I don't recall the part number but it is there in my restoration discussion somewhere.  

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Yes, if it is left out, you will have problems as most of the coolant will bypass the radiator all the time. 

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Wasn't there something about using a later ('48 or so comes to mind) thermo housing to get away from this setup?

 

I don't mean to hijack this thread but I am currently reassembling my engine and don't dare for the original system.

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Hi all,

just an update.

Took your advice and disabled the thermostat bypass. Used some K&S brass tubing to lock the springy thingy in place and thin brass rod to make up a cotter pin rather than the ZP split pin.

 

Have put it all back together onto the motor, fitted up all the hoses and have some water in it last night. Checked this morning and no puddles and level seemed the same (over full) so seems ok. Just got to put back the refurbished generator and belt to complete the cooling system.

 

BTW learnt a new trick. Much easier to install the fan and pulley when the pump is off the motor than try to line up those pesky holes for the fan bolts. A suggestion from a mate when helps me R&R radiators on Buicks ????? 

 

I know, no pictures, so it never happened.

Next time!

Rodney ??????

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