Surf City '38 244 Posted April 22, 2020 Author Share Posted April 22, 2020 5 minutes ago, countrytravler said: My bad. Some Dodge wheels have the guide hole. No worries buddy! Link to post Share on other sites
Surf City '38 244 Posted April 22, 2020 Author Share Posted April 22, 2020 So you know, I have on it now the '36 LC 16"X6" wheel, with 16" x 6.5" tires...1/4" on each side overlap on the bead... Link to post Share on other sites
38rcdodge 39 Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 21 hours ago, Surf City '38 said: Thanks Dave, This chart is for '36 - '40 (LC through VC) 1/2 tons. So now I have no idea on these rims I have...are they aftermarket? Passenger Car? It wouldn't surprise me if they are original, and just not listed in the parts books. it would be interesting to see Plymouth car wheel options. If they have date codes that would also be a clue. but I am not aware if they did that, or where they are if so. And I have the guide pins too, so not just a Plymouth thing. This wheel is strange though, I've never seen one with the hubcap clips mounted like that. they are usually in line with the guide pin holes. so that one I'd suspect is for something else. Link to post Share on other sites
Surf City '38 244 Posted April 23, 2020 Author Share Posted April 23, 2020 For sure its truly puzzling... 1 Link to post Share on other sites
38rcdodge 39 Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 Yup the puzzles and mysteries never seem to end. it just makes these trucks that much more interesting. mine had 15x5 wheels on it, definitely not original. I'm guessing mid or late 50's. they still had a hole for the guide pin though. I'm glad somebody didn't just grind the pins off so other wheels will fit. I'm sure it was common. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Surf City '38 244 Posted April 27, 2020 Author Share Posted April 27, 2020 On 4/5/2020 at 4:32 PM, Surf City '38 said: Gremlins to date... 1) Leaking and broken brass oil pressure line fitting 2) Leaking and broken brass fuel line fitting 3) Leaking brake lines all four corners 4) Leaking expansion plug (freeze plug) 5) Incorrect carb. kit 6) Non-operational fuel gauge 7) Non-operational engine temperature gauge 😎 Leaking diaphragm in the timing vacuum advance And still finding new ones every time I go out and test drive....the joy of our hobby! 1) Leaking and broken brass oil pressure line fitting - Fixed 2) Leaking and broken brass fuel line fitting - Fixed 3) Leaking brake lines all four corners - Fixed 4) Leaking expansion plug (freeze plug) - Fixed 5) Incorrect carb. kit - Fixed 6) Non-operational fuel gauge - Fixed 7) Non-operational engine temperature gauge - Fixed 8. Leaking diaphragm in the timing vacuum advance - Fixed NEW - Clutch does not fully release, and clutch is fully adjusted out....seams as if either the throw out bearing is not wide enough or the clutch fingers are not long enough....effectively even with a fully adjusted pedal I need about another 1" to fully release....too much grinding. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
38rcdodge 39 Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 (edited) I had this same problem with the clutch. I ended up making a spacer that goes under the throw out bearing, to make it come out a little further. I originally assumed somebody put the wrong pressure plate in, but it is correct. Hopefully you have the right pressure plate. It could be wear on the clutch release fork arms, and throw out bearing sleeve, where the two make contact. Edited April 27, 2020 by 38rcdodge errors (see edit history) 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Surf City '38 244 Posted April 27, 2020 Author Share Posted April 27, 2020 11 hours ago, 38rcdodge said: It could be wear on the clutch release fork arms, and throw out bearing sleeve, where the two make contact. Could be: 1) Incorrect new pressure plate, incorrect new throw out bearing or both 2) Worn out clutch shaft bushing 3) Worn Fork arm/sleeve The fun continues... Link to post Share on other sites
38rcdodge 39 Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 (edited) Yes I forgot about the clutch shaft bushing. that could also cause it. I also had a problem with wear in the bell housing where the clutch shaft rides on the right side. And had to make a bushing. I don't think it ever had one there. I remember you showed a pic of the wear on the throw out bearing sleeve in an earlier post, it didn't look to bad. mine has significantly more wear. According to this a 919 pressure plate is correct, and 905 920 or 948 will work. On 4/21/2019 at 7:43 PM, Spinneyhill said: Not sure what model trucks you gent's have, so here is the info. I have on clutch friction plates. These two, 905 and 919, are interchangeable. The Hollander says the '38-42 RC etc. takes a "91" which is a 905, 919, 920 or 948. It is a 10A7 = 10" plate. Edited April 27, 2020 by 38rcdodge errors (see edit history) 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Surf City '38 244 Posted April 27, 2020 Author Share Posted April 27, 2020 2 hours ago, 38rcdodge said: Yes I forgot about the clutch shaft bushing. that could also cause it. I also had a problem with wear in the bell housing where the clutch shaft rides on the right side. And had to make a bushing. I don't think it ever had one there. I remember you showed a pic of the wear on the throw out bearing sleeve in an earlier post, it didn't look to bad. mine has significantly more wear. According to this a 919 pressure plate is correct, and 905 920 or 948 will work. Sleeve was fine as well as the fork...I will pull it out later this week.... 1 Link to post Share on other sites
38rcdodge 39 Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 Sounds like fun. its not the most difficult job. I'll take a guess its the wrong pressure plate. I think you can see the number on it through the inspection hole in the bell housing, without removing it, but would need to take out the lower toe board. I wonder if it would be possible to adjust the pressure plate arms out a little further than specified to make up for wear. I'm tempted to experiment with it next time I have mine out. I do have a little bit of clutch chatter, so will need to at some point. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Surf City '38 244 Posted April 27, 2020 Author Share Posted April 27, 2020 Fingers cannot be adjusted to be longer, only more tension and less tension.... I'll have it up on the lift, so not too bad of a job. Always fun... 1 Link to post Share on other sites
38rcdodge 39 Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 Ahh That's nice having a lift. And you have an extra input shaft, for aligning the clutch when reinstalling. so you don't have to disassemble your trans in order to reinstall. like some people. That makes sense about the arms. . I just know they all have to be adjusted evenly. I only thought its a possibility because in the shop manual they show adjusting them with feeler gauges. Good luck on the fun. it will be interesting to see what you discover. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
countrytravler 378 Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 from 2015? 2 Link to post Share on other sites
Surf City '38 244 Posted May 23, 2020 Author Share Posted May 23, 2020 (edited) Problem resolved, 1) 10" Chevy clutch plates are too thick, Duh!... 2) Having a real tight pilot bushing... Shaved the disk on the fly wheel planer and stretched the pilot bushing with my spare input shaft...shifts like butter now!!!! Thanks for the help Dave and Jack H. 👍 Edited May 23, 2020 by Surf City '38 (see edit history) 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Surf City '38 244 Posted July 8, 2020 Author Share Posted July 8, 2020 Hanging tin....finally found my roundtoit. 😂 2 Link to post Share on other sites
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