Alan Cutler Posted December 9, 2018 Author Share Posted December 9, 2018 Old and new water distribution tubes.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted December 9, 2018 Author Share Posted December 9, 2018 Final engine assembly, after dyno engine break in, blue printed and molly coated.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted December 10, 2018 Share Posted December 10, 2018 Its looking great I'm actually surprised how nice your old water distribution tube is. in my case what was left came out in about 3 pieces... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted December 10, 2018 Author Share Posted December 10, 2018 17 minutes ago, 38rcdodge said: Its looking great I'm actually surprised how nice your old water distribution tube is. in my case what was left came out in about 3 pieces... One piece, but with many holes.....all over the place....I will be so glad once i get the drive train in....all down hill after that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted December 10, 2018 Share Posted December 10, 2018 Yup looking carefully I see the holes. still you're lucky it came out in one piece. getting the drive train in will be a big milestone for sure. in my case I've actually not had the engine out or completely apart yet, it runs well enough, but will need rings at least eventually I think. do you also still have the original engine? I think I can make out T58-XXXX. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted December 10, 2018 Author Share Posted December 10, 2018 29 minutes ago, 38rcdodge said: do you also still have the original engine? I think I can make out T58-XXXX. Yes this is the original engine from the build card, T58-1958, stamped just below the "Motor No." box below. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted December 11, 2018 Share Posted December 11, 2018 Awesome well worth the painstaking restoration then. I still need to send away for the build card, definitely will eventually. I have T58-19191 so much later.I see yours was built in October '37 . I've found casting dates of march '38 so seems about right . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted February 23, 2019 Author Share Posted February 23, 2019 Next step, press the new ring gear on to the flywheel....spin balance the pressure plate, clutch and flywheel, paint an alignment mark, disassemble and attach to the back of the crank shaft using my spare input shaft as an alignment tool, then ready to drop in the frame... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted March 10, 2019 Author Share Posted March 10, 2019 Just finished up....new ring gear at 144 teeth....installed. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted March 10, 2019 Author Share Posted March 10, 2019 Old throw out bearing return spring and new....see the difference? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted March 10, 2019 Author Share Posted March 10, 2019 (edited) Little bit of fork wear....with a new pressed on throw out bearing.... Edited March 10, 2019 by Surf City '38 (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted March 10, 2019 Author Share Posted March 10, 2019 Flywheel thread chasing..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted March 10, 2019 Author Share Posted March 10, 2019 Always handy to have a spare transmission shaft for an alignment tool.... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted March 10, 2019 Author Share Posted March 10, 2019 Bell housing casting date, 8-5-37, aligns well will build card final assembly of 10-6-37 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgedave68 Posted March 13, 2019 Share Posted March 13, 2019 On 8/12/2018 at 5:28 PM, Surf City '38 said: Ok Folks finished up the master cylinder rebuild...Not much happening the rest of the summer, waiting for the engine blueprinting, vulcanized rubber, emblem rebuilds and of course the bed and cab...as soon as items come back, I will photo journal it. Still need to purchase running boards and a tailgate. Big thanks out to Mark Wyman at Marksfinds4lessvintagecarpartsandmore.com by far the largest NOS catalog I could find... Until then, enjoy the photos... hi - the master and wheel cylinders were new - corroded fast. that drag link was nos wish i another - truck is looking amazing 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted March 25, 2019 Author Share Posted March 25, 2019 One engine installed, with a little persuasion from my 4-ton buddy, and some help with mount orientations from Vic. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted March 25, 2019 Author Share Posted March 25, 2019 Doing a little E-Brake and gearbox refurb next... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted March 29, 2019 Share Posted March 29, 2019 Very nice progress, looking great!. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted April 8, 2019 Author Share Posted April 8, 2019 Finished....refurbed Gearbox and E-Brake 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted April 8, 2019 Author Share Posted April 8, 2019 Installed - refurbed Master Brake, refurbed Generator, refurbed Starter, Air Cleaner, Carb Linkage, and E-Brake handle...(yes I know the distributor is still upside down and yes, the E-brake handle will be the only Nickle showing after paint.) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted April 8, 2019 Author Share Posted April 8, 2019 Now time to rebuild the U-Joints and balance the drive shaft.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted April 8, 2019 Share Posted April 8, 2019 Looking good. are the pins in your driveshaft tight? one of mine was loose, I tried electroplating the pin to tighten it, but it didn't last. I realized based on the part number and what I think is a date code it likely isn't the original, and from a '40. so just got one from a '37 with tight pins and the right part number at least. I cleaned it up installed it a few months ago. and so far so good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted April 8, 2019 Author Share Posted April 8, 2019 In the photo you can see one pin is missing....that side of the drive shaft had a broken cover with no gasket and was missing 2 needle bearings in one cup, while the other side with the gasket, had not been off in many years, had hard and solid fiber bond grease. The pin from the side with the gasket was easy to slide out, the pin without the gasket had to be pressed out....💪 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted April 8, 2019 Share Posted April 8, 2019 Yup, I thought since you only showed one pin in the pic it might be that way. the pins should be tight. in my case the joint with the loose pin was completely disintegrated. apparently the loose pin let the shaft slam back and fourth hard enough that one of the balls actually broke. then all the needle bearings came out... it wasn't pretty. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted April 18, 2019 Author Share Posted April 18, 2019 Hard to find these....but got lucky. All fixed up, now. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted April 18, 2019 Share Posted April 18, 2019 Yup they must be hard to find, I don't recognize it, so must be missing on mine... where does it go? my first guess is part of the throttle linkage.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted April 18, 2019 Author Share Posted April 18, 2019 (edited) It is called a bell crank ball joint, it's the swivel transition portion from the throttle pedal bell housing pivot to the carburetor throttle rod.....sorry for the fuzzy shot, iPhones get confused on the focal point sometimes... Edited April 18, 2019 by Surf City '38 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted April 18, 2019 Share Posted April 18, 2019 Cool, thanks.👍 yeah I don't have one, just a rod bent with washers and a cotter pin. maybe its why the throttle is stiffer than I would expect.😂 no problem with the fuzziness. my Samsung gets just as confused... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgedave68 Posted April 18, 2019 Share Posted April 18, 2019 It is looking FANTASTIC!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted April 21, 2019 Author Share Posted April 21, 2019 Fuel and front break line double flare day.....been trying to avoid this (not my favorite process...) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted April 21, 2019 Share Posted April 21, 2019 👍Maybe not fun but important.😂 on mine the pre-made lines from the local auto parts store were used , with two shorter ones joined to make the long ones. while it works and avoided having to do the flares, not as neat as custom made. so I was wondering, since you just did your clutch recently , do you know the correct Borg & Beck model number of the pressure plate?. mine is 919, which I'm thinking may be wrong, the arms don't seem to come out far enough. it works, but barely. thanks, Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted April 22, 2019 Author Share Posted April 22, 2019 2 hours ago, 38rcdodge said: so I was wondering, since you just did your clutch recently , do you know the correct Borg & Beck model number of the pressure plate?. mine is 919, which I'm thinking may be wrong, the arms don't seem to come out far enough. it works, but barely. thanks, Bill. Hey Bill, seems to me it was a 928....just from memory, I never did take a photo of the part number...when my rebuilder and I retentioned the springs we only needed the part number to ensure we had the correct finger release springs....sorry. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted April 22, 2019 Author Share Posted April 22, 2019 Not happy with all of them, but for now will do....may go back later and redo the fuel line and the passenger front brake lines.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted April 22, 2019 Author Share Posted April 22, 2019 Few more shots showing, horn, fan, pulley, final adjusted e-brake assembly, and starter and gas pedals.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted April 22, 2019 Share Posted April 22, 2019 Thanks much Alan , 👍 that seems right. I found a list of the models from Borg & Beck for 1939, a 919 has the arms at 2-3/8. the 928 at 2-5/32. which explains why I always had too much free play in the clutch I think. I made a shim that goes under the throw-out bearing to bring it within spec. works for now but will keep an eye out for a 928. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted April 22, 2019 Share Posted April 22, 2019 29 minutes ago, Surf City '38 said: Not happy with all of them, but for now will do....may go back later and redo the fuel line and the passenger front brake lines.... Your brake/fuel lines look great better than mine, that's for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted April 22, 2019 Share Posted April 22, 2019 One thing though, on mine there is a circle in the line from the master cyl, so its flexible. (the original was done a lot neater than I was able to) I can't tell if you put one in further back.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted April 22, 2019 Share Posted April 22, 2019 (edited) If you get air in that circle, it will be hard to get out. Not sure what model trucks you gent's have, so here is the info. I have on clutch friction plates. These two, 905 and 919, are interchangeable. The Hollander says the '38-42 RC etc. takes a "91" which is a 905, 919, 920 or 948. It is a 10A7 = 10" plate. Edited April 22, 2019 by Spinneyhill (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted April 22, 2019 Share Posted April 22, 2019 3 hours ago, Spinneyhill said: If you get air in that circle, it will be hard to get out. Good point. 😂 the original was flatter, probably. I still have it, I'll find and post a photo. it had a much tighter circle. I think its important though, since the master cyl is mounted to the bell housing and moves with the engine, whereas the brake line distribution block is mounted to the frame. it could flex quite a bit... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted April 22, 2019 Share Posted April 22, 2019 3 hours ago, Spinneyhill said: Not sure what model trucks you gent's have, so here is the info. I have on clutch friction plates. Thanks much for this Spinnyhill, its just what I was looking for. it seems 919 is the right one after all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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