Jump to content

Plz Help-- Cam Sensor replacement


Guest
 Share

Recommended Posts

I've noticed that the cam magnet is stronger at one end than the cap hat end. Why do you have to sand down the cap end or do you? Which end of the magnet do you insert into the cam? How far does the magnet have to be from the exterior sensor and how do you measure the gap? How do you put jbweld on the magnet and still keep the proper gapping with cool.gif [color:\\"yellow\\"] [color:\\"green\\"] [color:\\"blue\\"] out the magnet sticking to the rear of the cam wall? Thanks For all of your help....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Read my previous posts for compete details & helps to have the magnet in your hand.

You remove the brim of the top hat so you can insert from the front of the sprocket instead of the rear. It then sits as the factory intended because the two prongs which are designed to act as retainers when installed from the rear will act as stops when inserted from the front and stop the magnet the proper distance into the sprocket.

The hole in the cam is a through hole.

Removing the brim by filing/grinding down will shorten the magnet slightly so length is not a problem.

You apply the JB weld to the sides, not the bottom (see "through hole"). I added a ring of JB around the diameter where it stuck out of the sprocket after insertion also.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Padgett,

Thanks for all your help. I have read your instructions before and have had many questions. Could the magnet gravitate towards the rear cam wall and fall out or disappear? I will put JB on it before inserting then placing the sensor in place for a second to adjust debth of the mag, so it will not touch the sensor then removing sensor so the mag can cure.. Any other mindfilled suggestion? grin.gif [color:\\"purple\\"]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you look at the magnet from GM, the plastic housing has two arms that stick out. When you insert the magnet it will only go in so far before these hit the edge of the hole and it won't go in any farther. That is the right place.

For me the hard part was inserting the magnet in the sprocket hole since the sensor hole is too small for fingers. Once that is done the magnet will hold it in place until the JB dries. See my earlier posting.

Figure 1.

cmmag.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

grin.gifgrin.gif [color:\\"purple\\"] <span style="font-weight: bold">Thanks Padgett</span> I started doing the jb weld thing about 0600 eastcoast time. At about 1800 eastcoast time checked magnet, put everything back including belts, cleared codes,started her up, all clear. Car runs smooth... Instead of cutting off the magnet head hat, I broke off the corners with a pair of plyers and it worked well with enough clearance for the walls and the sensor. I also used the opposite end of a nail sink to put the magnet in the hole than spinning the nail sink off so that the magnet would stay in the hole. By turn the crank a little at a time I was able to put enough JB around the mag. to hold in place, maybe for 10,000 Miles??? Thanks for ALL of wisdom and knowledge. And to the rest of the SENIORS, MANY grin.gifgrin.gifgrin.gif [color:\\"brown\\"] THANKS..
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would expect it to last at least as long as the original, maybe longer since there was less stress on the magnet then pushing it in from the back. I also run the engine cooler than the factory did which should help plastic/rubber/seal life.

Wonder if a new sprocket set comes with the magnet installed.

Is obvious it was optomised for ease of assembly at the factory and not repair, guess am surprised there isn't a TSB about this, probably saves six hours labor, more for a novice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...