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Caliper Bolts


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Thanks Robert. By saying "also"...does that imply that replacing the caliper bolts and rubber inserts will work as well? Or will the Cylinder/Caliper kit work better?

Thanks in advance,

Ted.

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OK perhaps a poor choice of an extra word "also".

After much consideration I have edited "also" out.

<span style="font-weight: bold"> [color:\\"green\\"]Step in right direction </span> bolts and rubber inserts.

Think the kit would be <span style="font-weight: bold"> [color:\\"green\\"] better . </span>

Kit plus new Slider bolts would be<span style="font-weight: bold"> [color:\\"green\\"] better yet. </span>

<span style="font-weight: bold"> [color:\\"green\\"]Best but overkill </span> would be Kit plus new Slider bolts plus new caliper.

<span style="font-weight: bold"> [color:\\"purple\\"] My final answer smile.gif </span>

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Are you positive that its the Caliper bolts? Do a search on brakes here and you might discover that a common problem with the rattling noise is the disc pads themselves. If the vehicle has had a brake job done and, obviously new pads installed, the chances are they are aftermarket and not OEM pads. The aftermarket pads usually are not the right fit, they work but the fit is a little off. Just off enough to be an irritating rattle. OEM pads are near impossible to find anymore but I have used Delco Durastop pads and they fit perfectly, no rattle. I first thought like you that it was the calipers and I installed an anti-rattle kit which includes the bushings, etc. That kit didn't fix the problem at all. Good luck

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Hate to carry this discussion on any further, but in a previous post someone mentioned to make sure to replace bolts as the "plating" is most likely worn off (or something to that effect). I am going to replace the bolts regardless but are they plated or as far as replacements would bolts from NAPA suffice (plated)????

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Caliper Bolts are not stainless steel. Appears to be a soft alloy. Service manual states to replace them each time you remove them. That seems a bit extreme to me, but I learned about them after both my bolts on my front right sheared off going 15 mph. Limped it home. They are 1 time bolts and if you use them over, they may become loose and shear.

The only time you need to remove them is for caliper replacement. Do not remove them for brake pad / rotor turning. I seriously doubt that they are your problem. Aftermarket brake pads just do not fit right. Take your wheel off and move them by hand to see.

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Had this recurring rattle problem with my left rear caliper and eventually determined where I'd been lead astray. About 3 years ago a shop indicated they'd solve my rattle problem with replacement of the caliper mounting brackets, not knowing any better I gave them the "Go-Ahead".

Within weeks the rattle returned and they were out-of-business! Finally took it apart after looking at the Service manual and installed the Bushing Kit. My left side rattle was primarily due to lack of the inner rubber bushing that the slender end of the caliper bolt runs in. The caliper bolts are cadmium plated steel and the plating will wear off if the outer seal has failed and the lubricant has been lost.

This will correct alot of the play in the caliper assembly, the second problem is after-market pads/ GM substitute pads that don't correctly fit the caliper as mentioned above.

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I read the information GM Ross posted a few months back and placed a order for 4 of the kit. Last Wednesday I did the front left as I felt it was the problem child. Still have the rattle but it does seem to have changed. Will do the front right soon to see it that stops it. My father and I did the first one. He said no to helping with the second one. Said that if problem doesn't go away then no need to continue. I still hear the rattle and so do other people. Makes the car sound like a piece of junk to me and others have asked my why my car rattles. One day it will be solved! These cars are wonderful and the knowledge shared on these pages makes them a pleasure to own.

This is my fourth Reatta and the first to have this issue.

Bruce Guthrie

90 Gunmetal Gray

90 Select Sixty

79 Seville Eleganta

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I literally just got back from NAPA where I picked up an additional hardward kit and they ordered the slider bolts for me to look at. As Greg describes above they had a very "pretty/shinny" plating and were expensive (8. ea.). After months of watching this forum for a correct answer I think his is the most sensible / logical repair to attempt. It would be a good idea just to have 4 bolts next to you when attempting repair just in case plating is missing however.

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