1936 lower control arm

[Nanorios]

Having trouble figuring out how to remove lower A arm from spindle ..Shop Manuel says there's nut behind the grease fitting but can't find it 

[pont35cpe]

Emiliano, good to hear you found trunk hinges and water pump repair.  On the lower A-arm/spindle there is a tapered lock pin(no nut or bolt), to remove tapered pin use a punch and hammer, I`m not sure which direction pin was installed but would be removed in the opposite direction. If you look closely at each end you might be able to see a flat spot  on one end(top) and the other end should be round, drive the pin out hitting the end with the flat spot. Once the lock pin is removed then the lower pivot pin can be removed. The upper and lower pivot pin and bushing kits are something I`ve never found, if yours are worn out you`ll probably have to have a machinest  make new ones..  Good Luck, Tom

[Tom_S]

If I remember correctly the tapered pin is removed from the inside towards outside but memory is sometimes wrong.  As everyone knows the 36 front end is one of a kind and parts do not come easy.  My upper and lower pins/bushings were completely worn out.  I finally found both upper and lower at Rare parts, Inc.  Stockton, Ca.  209-248-6005  This was in 2012.

 

I found this on ebay  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Parts-Lower-Outer-Pivot-Pin-1934-1936-Buick-Series-40-15494/292158093122?epid=192628890&hash=item4405fab742:g:Am0AAOSwsN9XDBxd

 

I did not find the upper one.

 

Their part numbers were RP15494 lower and RP15493

 

Their kits were not quite right, however the bushing/pin sets were ok and needed reaming so size just like a king pin set.  I made some fittings to press them in place.  I think the problem I had were the seals and end caps were not right.  The caps are the same thing as water passage freeze plugs.  One of the hardened pins had zirk threads that were not fully machined and caused me problems getting the zirk fitted. 

 

I also ordered inner and outer ball joints from them.  For some reason they had the same part number for different styles of joints and of course I received no matching ones which caused major back and forth shipping problems between us but it was finally resolved. 

 

I also have a complete set of drawings and parts list to have your own sets made in a machine shop sent to me from a fellow collector here.  He had the same locating parts problem so was fortunate enough to be able to take measurements and make the detailed drawings.  My machine shop friends were very busy at the time of rebuild and that is why I searched and found Rare Parts.  The measurements on the drawings matched what measurements I took of mine so fabrication should be ok from them.  I would be willing to make a copy and send.  However, fabrication will not be cheap unless you have friends. 

 

My lower inner control arms were also shot from years of riding cobblestone roads in the Pittsburgh, Pa area.  If not for a friend who made a street rod out of his 36 and saved all the parts I am not sure what I would have done.  I had made some mental sketches of how something could be made that would take their place but would have been a challenge. 

 

Good luck

 

Tom Schmutz

[pont35cpe]

3 hours ago, Tom_S said:

If I remember correctly the tapered pin is removed from the inside towards outside but memory is sometimes wrong.  As everyone knows the 36 front end is one of a kind and parts do not come easy.  My upper and lower pins/bushings were completely worn out.  I finally found both upper and lower at Rare parts, Inc.  Stockton, Ca.  209-248-6005  This was in 2012.

 

I found this on ebay  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Parts-Lower-Outer-Pivot-Pin-1934-1936-Buick-Series-40-15494/292158093122?epid=192628890&hash=item4405fab742:g:Am0AAOSwsN9XDBxd

 

I did not find the upper one.

 

Their part numbers were RP15494 lower and RP15493

 

Their kits were not quite right, however the bushing/pin sets were ok and needed reaming so size just like a king pin set.  I made some fittings to press them in place.  I think the problem I had were the seals and end caps were not right.  The caps are the same thing as water passage freeze plugs.  One of the hardened pins had zirk threads that were not fully machined and caused me problems getting the zirk fitted. 

 

I also ordered inner and outer ball joints from them.  For some reason they had the same part number for different styles of joints and of course I received no matching ones which caused major back and forth shipping problems between us but it was finally resolved. 

 

I also have a complete set of drawings and parts list to have your own sets made in a machine shop sent to me from a fellow collector here.  He had the same locating parts problem so was fortunate enough to be able to take measurements and make the detailed drawings.  My machine shop friends were very busy at the time of rebuild and that is why I searched and found Rare Parts.  The measurements on the drawings matched what measurements I took of mine so fabrication should be ok from them.  I would be willing to make a copy and send.  However, fabrication will not be cheap unless you have friends. 

 

My lower inner control arms were also shot from years of riding cobblestone roads in the Pittsburgh, Pa area.  If not for a friend who made a street rod out of his 36 and saved all the parts I am not sure what I would have done.  I had made some mental sketches of how something could be made that would take their place but would have been a challenge. 

 

Good luck

 

Tom Schmutz

Tom, I figure you got the working drawings from Keith Elwell drawn up July 16and17 `84.. I also have a set of drawing from him..

[Tom_S]

yes, Keith sent them to me. 

[Tom_S]

Thought I would post a couple pictures of my 1936 worn control arm pin and bushing when I was rebuilding it.  I knew when I started the rebuild I had a lot of slop in the front end.  Pin od in middle is factory .875  Pin od on worn end is .808.  Difference of .067. Bushing non worn area close to factory of .880.  Bushing worn area is about .925.  Difference of .045.  Total slop .067 plus .045 equals .112 clearance.  And yes, those are pin holes you see in the bushing worn area.  Both the upper and lower pins and bushings had similar wear.  The cobble stone roads in the Pittsburgh, Pa. played havoc on my Grandfathers car! 

[48517]

On 5/6/2018 at 9:01 AM, Tom_S said:

If I remember correctly the tapered pin is removed from the inside towards outside but memory is sometimes wrong.  As everyone knows the 36 front end is one of a kind and parts do not come easy.  My upper and lower pins/bushings were completely worn out.  I finally found both upper and lower at Rare parts, Inc.  Stockton, Ca.  209-248-6005  This was in 2012.

 

I found this on ebay  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Parts-Lower-Outer-Pivot-Pin-1934-1936-Buick-Series-40-15494/292158093122?epid=192628890&hash=item4405fab742:g:Am0AAOSwsN9XDBxd

 

I did not find the upper one.

 

Their part numbers were RP15494 lower and RP15493

 

Their kits were not quite right, however the bushing/pin sets were ok and needed reaming so size just like a king pin set.  I made some fittings to press them in place.  I think the problem I had were the seals and end caps were not right.  The caps are the same thing as water passage freeze plugs.  One of the hardened pins had zirk threads that were not fully machined and caused me problems getting the zirk fitted. 

 

I also ordered inner and outer ball joints from them.  For some reason they had the same part number for different styles of joints and of course I received no matching ones which caused major back and forth shipping problems between us but it was finally resolved. 

 

I also have a complete set of drawings and parts list to have your own sets made in a machine shop sent to me from a fellow collector here.  He had the same locating parts problem so was fortunate enough to be able to take measurements and make the detailed drawings.  My machine shop friends were very busy at the time of rebuild and that is why I searched and found Rare Parts.  The measurements on the drawings matched what measurements I took of mine so fabrication should be ok from them.  I would be willing to make a copy and send.  However, fabrication will not be cheap unless you have friends. 

 

My lower inner control arms were also shot from years of riding cobblestone roads in the Pittsburgh, Pa area.  If not for a friend who made a street rod out of his 36 and saved all the parts I am not sure what I would have done.  I had made some mental sketches of how something could be made that would take their place but would have been a challenge. 

 

Good luck

 

Tom Schmutz

HI:  I am just starting on my 1936 Roadmaster (80) and would like help/information on getting the the coil spring secured in preperation to getting the lower control arm pins out.  Thank you Ed Muir.

[Tom_S]

Hi Ed,

 

The front end rebuild is a very trying and interesting project.  I wish I had taken lots of photographs to document how I figured out to disassemble and reassemble everything.  Lots of 70 year old accumulated grease and grime on my hands probably prevented me from even thinking about a camera.

 

If my memory serves me correctly I had the car on jack stands under the frame which relieved some of the compression on the springs.  I used a couple of hydraulic jacks under the lower inner control arm and removed the bolts holding it to the frame and then lowered them down thus relieving the springs for removal. I think I had one directly under the spring pocket too.  I looked into using a spring compressor but couldn't find one to borrow that would fit these springs.  Not a whole lot of room to use a compressor either.  The reverse was more difficult using the same technique but also had to use some c-clamps to help get the frame bolts lined up for the lower inner control arm. The more that fought me the more determined I became it was not going to win!  The springs have a rubber cushion between them and their pockets to eliminate steel to steel contact and squeaks I assume.  I made these out of reinforced epdm roofing material.  A local metal roofing company had remnants that you could purchase.  I glued two pieces together for thickness.  Also made sure to have drain holes in the lower ones to prevent any water from accumulating. 

 

Not sure why I did not rebuild the steering box at that same time, but have just finished rebuilding it now.  Another interesting project.  Fortunately the gears and roller bearings were all in good shape.  I only found the pitman arm output bushings to be worn.  A trip to the local bearing store found identical size bushings and seal.  Made a new gasket between the 2 halves of the steering box  Press out and press in new bushings.  Polish a couple of tight places in the new bushings and all is good.  Lots of controversy on what fluid to use in the steering box. Since the steering gears and bearings only turn a few revolutions one way or the other and at very slow speeds I wanted something sticky to adhere to them and provided some lubrication.  I used STP.  Do not use grease out of the grease gun as some have recommended.  After prolonged use, it will harden some and provide a tunneling affect, thus no grease on anything. 

 

Hope this information will be of some use to you.  Let me know if you need anything else and good luck with your project. 

 

Tom  

[48517]

On 5/13/2018 at 6:34 AM, Tom_S said:

yes, Keith sent them to me. 

TOM:  I have no idea how to reply on this site but hope you get this.

TOM:  Thanks for the info on the 36 lower control arm.  Spent all day yesterday working on it without much progress but will keep at it again today.  The picture you sent looks like what I expect to see if/when I get mine out.  Did you have to "press" the lower arm keeper pin out or were you able to drive it out with a punch?  Again thanks for sharing your thoughts and experience.   Ed Muir.  

PS:  I tried replying to the email you sent me but it was a "no_reply" ??

[Tom_S]

Ed,

 

You have to be on the Forum website to reply using the "reply" section under the topic, which is what you are doing.  it posts on the Forum and also sends that person an email message to go to the Forum and see the whole message.  You cant just reply to the email message you receive about the posting.   Just email me direct from now on with any questions.

 

twschmutz1@gmail.com

 

To answer your question I used a punch to remove the lower arm keeper pin.  I did make some aluminum turned pieces to push the bushings back in place.  I have a small South Bend Lathe, made the push pieces on it, then went to friends shop and used his press to install the new bushings. 

 

Tom