1947 Chevy Fleetline

[C Carl]

Hey Rusty : guess what ? In case you missed it , you are just about to turn over ten thou'. I'm going to jump the gun and give you a great big tip of the hat right now ! And most ot your postings are chock full of great advice ! I couldnt carry your toolbox ! Congratulations !   -  CC 

[AntiqueCraftsman]

My nuts are loose!

 

I went out this morning and loosened all the lug nuts on all four wheels.   I was surprised that they came loose easily.  I had nightmares last night about breaking studs trying to get the nuts loose.  They are all in great shape except for one nut that is stripped.  But it's only the nut that's stripped not the stud.  So I'm in good shape so far.   I haven't removed any wheels yet.  Too many other things to do.  I'll need to get the floor jack out and start popping wheels off to see what's behind them.

 

Engine Number:

 

In any case, I found the engine number.  It's hard to read cause I can't get my head down in there to see it.  I took a picture of it.  I think it's 3936497  or maybe 3836497?

Can't be sure of those first three numbers.

 

Here's the picture of the number, it's hard to read.

 

Now where do I find what this number means?

 

[pont35cpe]

I think what you are showing is a casting number not the engine number. Engine numbers are stamped.

[Rusty_OToole]

Thanks Carl it is nice to know you are appreciated. Some of these questions take some working out but it is all in fun isn't it.

 

Antique from your pictures it appears you have the original engine. They had a tin pan on the right side that ran all the way up the head, newer models had a shorter one that didn't cover the head.  For confirmation look at the serial number stamped in the block, just behind the oil dip stick.

 

Here is a page on identifying your motor by number.http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/models/engine.htm

 

Keep in mind that anything can be fixed on your car. It is one of the most popular old models, all parts are available and they are often cheaper than for newer cars.

Edited May 5, 2018 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

[AntiqueCraftsman]

Thanks Rusty,

 

I'm new here and I'm already appreciating you.   Lots of good advice and information already.   By the way my real life name is Jim.

 

I'm prepared to do whatever it takes to bring this car up to dependable shape.  I want to drive this car for real.  I'm sick of the new junk cars they've been making pretty much from the 1980 onward.  I'll probably get a lot of slack for having said that.  I'm sure there were some 80's that weren't too bad.   I'm actually driving a 1992 Ford F-150 pick up.  And I consider that to be an "antique".   It's  a nice simple truck.  300 6-cly, 5 speed stick, no air bag, no power windows.  No extra garbage.  Just a basic truck.   My kind of deal.

 

I also have a 1998 Ford escort and a 1995 Dodge Intrepid.  I've been driving them both for years, but they are about shot.  So I'm going to need a "new" car.  And this 1947 Chevy is going to be it.  So this will be the focus of all car resources now.    Hopefully within a year or two this will be my main ride.

[bradsan]

36 minutes ago, Rusty_OToole said:

Thanks Carl it is nice to know you are appreciated. Some of these questions take some working out but it is all in fun isn't it.

 

Antique from your pictures it appears you have the original engine. They had a tin pan on the right side that ran all the way up the head, newer models had a shorter one that didn't cover the head.  For confirmation look at the serial number stamped in the block, just behind the oil dip stick.

 

Here is a page on identifying your motor by number.http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/models/engine.htm

 

Keep in mind that anything can be fixed on your car. It is one of the most popular old models, all parts are available and they are often cheaper than for newer cars.

Ah yes , the tin pan on the side with the wonderful slotted flat head 'stovebolts' ( if only Mr Robertson had won the fastener battle, the world would be a better place)  There is one behind the distributor that can be done without removing  said distributor but you will need a 90 degree flat head 'wrench' of just the right size and an ample supply of swear words.

Brad

[bradsan]

As per Carl's advice on brakes, most everything is available except some of the brass junction blocks be careful with those.. You can get a pre-bent stainless line set for the car that will fit right in and it will be the last set of lines you need.

One thing that does do wrong with the rear brakes is actually a driveline issue. If you rear end is too full of oil and weeping out at the axle seals , it could be your u-joint yoke seal. when they go, they allow the transmission oil to run down the torque tube and into the rear end. This is not good for rear brakes and really not good for your transmission. for this reason,keep an eye on the transmission oil as it can disappear without any external signs of drips. There is a replacement driveshaft bearing and seal available from vendors like Chevs of the 40's  and the job is pretty easy if you buy or rent the special tool. Do not try it without the tool as you will not succeed, you will just run out of bad words to say.

 

Brad

[AntiqueCraftsman]

New Engine number:   HAM76023

 

According to the charts the engine is 1950 vintage.  Not the original engine then?  The car is a 1947 right?  It says 1947 on the title.

 

 

[Rusty_OToole]

It's not uncommon for these cars to have had a replacement engine installed, either an exchange rebuilt unit or a good used engine. The 1950 engine is practically identical to the 1947. If it is in decent shape it should provide you with many thousands of enjoyable and reliable miles as long as you keep the speed to 60 or less.

[bradsan]

Definitely a 1947 , 1950 was a totally different body style.

[Bleach]

15 hours ago, AntiqueCraftsman said:

I should go buy a case of beer and just sit here drinking beer looking at her from a lawn chair for a while to soak in the find.

 

I've done that a number of times with my car. That's really satisfying.

It sounds like you have priorities and that's a good thing. The car will be a good break from your priorities when you get a little burned out from them.

 

This is a 1950 Chevy Fleetline Deluxe.

[capngrog]

On ‎5‎/‎4‎/‎2018 at 8:44 PM, AntiqueCraftsman said:

 

  I should go buy a case of beer and just sit here drinking beer looking at her from a lawn chair for a while to soak in the find.  I'm still in a state of disbelief that I actually got her. 

 

That is one of my favorite things to do after acquiring another car, be it older or newer. 

 

As to the "discovery" phase when trying to do a complete assessment of a car's condition, I like to first give the interior a thorough cleaning, then give the exterior a good wash.  It's amazing how many little (and sometimes big) condition items can be discovered this way.

 

Although not as much fun as getting the engine running, I agree that the brakes are more important.  It is also nice not to have to rely only upon the parking brake when moving the car around ... especially if you have a sloped driveway.  Moving is optional, stopping is not.  There are two ways of stopping:  the happy way and the not-so happy way.  The not-so happy way can be expensive and/or painful!

 

I like your car.  I have a 1947 Chevrolet 2 door sedan and like it very much.  As previously mentioned, the Chevys of that vintage are pleasant to drive.

 

Cheers,

Grog

[Bleach]

9 minutes ago, capngrog said:

I like your car.  I have a 1947 Chevrolet 2 door sedan and like it very much.  As previously mentioned, the Chevys of that vintage are pleasant to drive.

 

I've never driven one this old but did ride in a 49 occasionally back when I was a freshman in high school. A classmate's dad, Mr. Dawson, would pick us up from school with it. It was a 4 door and had lots of room in the back seat. Three of us could sit comfortably there. The best thing I liked was when Mr. Dawson would upshift a little early and the exhaust note would resonate through the car. I missed really that.

[Rusty_OToole]

Go back to post #28 and have a good look at Brass is Best's old Chevrolet. Notice the style, the real chrome, the upholstery and fittings, the woodgrain appointments, full gauge package, the room and comfort. Then reflect that this was General Motor's lowest priced car, and you could buy one for $1500. Compared to today's plastic  cars that sell for 10 times the money but aren't half the car.

[AntiqueCraftsman]

The BAD NEWS!

I was saving up money to buy a new welding machine.   I had my eye on a really nice TIG welder with a built-in Plasma cutter.  I really had my heart set on having this nice new TIG welder and plasma cutter.   But last week I got distracted by a used car for sale, and having attention deficit disorder and no discipline, I went out and bought the used car with the money I was saving up to buy the welder.  Darn it!  I have no discipline.  Um tell'in ya.

 

So no new welder for me!

 

The GOOD NEWS!

I do have an old Dayton AC/DC welder.   It's really old but it still works, .... barely.    In fact, it wouldn't work this morning and I had to take it all apart and clean it.  Fortunately when I put it all back together again it seems to be running pretty nice.   I had to weld up a trailer hitch for my tractor this morning.  I welded it up using a stick welds.   I haven't welded in a while and it took me a bit to get the hang of it again, but I'm happy to say that I was able to do some pretty decent welds on the trailer hitch.    However, you can't do decent body-work welding with a stick.   The good news is that I do have an old TIG torch for it.  I'll have to get some Argon gas.  I've had this TIG torch for years but never used it.  I wonder how well it will work with the Dayton welder.  There's no frequency control or anything like that.   It's just a DC welder.

 

I wonder if there is anyone out there who has had any luck welding automotive sheet metal using just a TIG torch on an old DC welder with no frequency control?  And should I use DC, or AC?   I'm thinking of running out and getting a bottle of Argon.  That's going to be about $250.  They want you to buy the tank, then you can refill it just for the price of the gas. 

 

Or should I wait until I can save up enough money to buy a new welder that has the frequency adjustments?  Plasma cutter would be nice too, huh?

 

The GREAT NEWS!

I just bought a 1947 Chevrolet Sportsmaster Sedan Fleetline with a built-in trunk!   I'm drunk with happiness.

[Rusty_OToole]

I thought the good thing about the Chev was that it didn't require any bodywork? And that even if it did you were going to do the brakes first?

 

Have done bodywork with an oxyacetylene torch and brazing rod, lead fill, electric spot welder and MIG welder but TIG was not used in body shops in my time. I hear it is a great way to weld stuff.

 

When I started working on cars in the sixties I wanted a welding torch and an arc welder but couldn't afford both so I got the torches first. Never did get the arc welder. This didn't stop me from working on cars for the last 50 years. O ya I got a cheap MIG about 15 years ago. You don't have to have all the tools in the world.

[AntiqueCraftsman]

28 minutes ago, Rusty_OToole said:

I thought the good thing about the Chev was that it didn't require any bodywork? And that even if it did you were going to do the brakes first? 

 

Let's not get too rambunctious.     I'm just in the "inspection" stage right now.   I want to pull all the wheels to look at the entire chassis assembly associated with each wheel.  Brakes will of course be part of that.   Besides today is Sunday.  I don't do brakes on Sundays.

 

Today I cleaned out the trunk and did some inspection there.   There are two small holes in the rear corners of the trunk that will need to be repaired.   I do have oxy-acetlene torches to work with.  But that produces a lot of unnecessary heat.    A TIG is more like doing precise surgery.   I definitely want to go with TIG welding if possible.  Like I say, I already have a TIG torch.  I just need to get some Argon.  And I need to do a lot of welding, not just on this car.   But I will be needing to weld in new floor panels especially near the rocker panels.  I never meant to imply that this car doesn't need any body work at all.  It actually needs quite a bit.   Especially in terms of sanding out rusty areas in rain gutters and near chrome strips.   The bottom of the doors need attention too.  They aren't bad yet, they just need cleaned up.  But ignoring them would cause major problems down the road.  I'm planning on driving this car for the rest of my life.  So I'm going to go over it in-depth.

 

The upholstery is in dire need of replacement.  The seats are in great shape as far as springs are concerned.  But the material is rotted.   The carpets are rotted too. I tried peeling them back to look at the flooring, but they just fall apart.  So that's all coming out and being replaced.

 

I never meant to imply that this car is almost ready to just hop in and drive away.  I was raving about how "complete" it is.  Not necessarily how "ready-to-drive" it is.

 

Here's pictures of the trunk and parts I found within,...

 

It has a brand new spare tire on a very new-looking wheel.   It also appears to be a pair of spare shock absorbers there.  I wonder if I can rebuild those shocks?  I found the air-cleaner in the trunk too.  See, I told you the car is "complete".

 

 

 

 

[AntiqueCraftsman]

Where are the Interior Enthusiasts?    I could use some Advice.

 

My interior is rotted.  It all needs to be replaced.  This is definitely going to be a DIY project, and cost is always a BIG issue for me.  I'm looking for ideas on how to do things cheap, easy, and durable. 

 

I took the rear seat out today and took some photos.  I think I can deal with putting in a new carpet myself.  But I could use any tips on how to make new seat covers.   Also how to I replace the headliner?   I haven't looked on YouTube yet, there may be some videos on there.

 

I'm also going to redo the door covers.  

 

Oh yeah, before I forget, I'd like any special knowledge about how to redo the arm rests in back.  Those are really cool.  Don't want to lose those!

 

Here's a barrage of photos I took today.  Some show the floorboard rot near the rocker panels.  I'll need to remove the carpet to weld all that up anyway, so I may as well do the whole interior while I'm at it.   Replacing the headliner is probably going to be the greatest challenge I imagine.

 

 

 

 

[AntiqueCraftsman]

OMG!  The headliner is going to be the most difficult part of this rebuild.

 

Any tips are more than welcome!

 

 

[C Carl]

Jim, where are you located? Also, could you please show us some good pics of your headliner. I am cooking up a suggestion for you which might fit into your life rather well. Also, I have an idea for a welder which just  might save you a buck or two.  -  CC

 

[pont35cpe]

In my opinion that wind-up clock is the best ever.. Never had a problem with the one in the `47 I owned, my brother has had the car the past 43yr and the clock still works..

[AntiqueCraftsman]

Carl, I live in Western Pennsylvania.  Cook Forest State park to be exact.  Well, I don't actually live in the park, but my property borders the park. 

 

I took a couple photos of the headliner today but they aren't real good shots.   It was a bit overcast.  I'm going to try to get some better shots on a sunny day when I can use mirrors to flood the headliner with sunlight.

 

The headliner isn't falling down.   It's not even ripped or sagging.  But I fear that it's got to be pretty rotten just like the seats and carpets are.  I'm guessing that if I try to even give it a good vacuuming it may begin to tear and fall apart.  Never mind trying to actually wash it.   Although you never know.  I might be surprised and it might clean up with out ripping or falling apart.  It's hard to say until I try.

 

Here's the photos:  I only took two shots so far.

 

It's just filthy, filthy, filthy.

 

 

 

 

[Rusty_OToole]

The cool thing about Chevrolet is that so many parts are available. Would you believe you can buy a complete interior ready to install?

 

LeBaron Bonney is a well know brand but there are others.

 

https://www.lebaronbonney.com/restoration-interiors.htm

 

I do have some experience in auto upholstery but not the kits. Will leave it to others with more experience to tell which is best.

 

I can say, if you have any manual skills upholstery should hold no fears. It is easier to do than bodywork or mechanical work. Provided you take your time and can follow directions.

Edited May 7, 2018 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

[Rusty_OToole]

Here's a deal for you. 1948 Sport Sedan interior (less seats) for half price.

 

https://www.lebaronbonney.com/cart/itemdesc.php?ic=5702

[AntiqueCraftsman]

If I may I would like to suggest a correction Rusty,...

 

"Some" people can afford to buy a whole interior kit.   I'm not included in that particular group.   The only way I can afford to redo this interior is DIY from scratch.  And even then I'll be looking to find a really good deal on raw materials.

 

I'm the guy who's not supposed to even think about restoring an antique car because it's a hobby that is basically beyond my financial reach.

 

But then again, I also have no business living on planet Earth because that too is basically beyond my financial reach.

 

But I do these things anyway because I don't know any better.

 

 

[AntiqueCraftsman]

8 minutes ago, Rusty_OToole said:

Here's a deal for you. 1948 Sport Sedan interior (less seats) for half price.

 

https://www.lebaronbonney.com/cart/itemdesc.php?ic=5702

 

Sorry.  I'm thinking more along the lines of $13.69. 

[Bleach]

Either way the pattern looks different than the 47.

[Bloo]

Headliners.....

 

First of all, don't try to make it. Buy it. Oh you could make it, if you had an industrial sewing machine around, and some experience using it. I have those and I still wouldn't do it. It needs to be perfect, and it isn't worth the trouble for what they cost, not even close. You need a fairly intact old one for a pattern, too.

 

If you want authentic cloth, go to Lebaron Bonney. If you just want, you know, some cloth... try Acme headliner, or Perfect-Fit Mcdonald, Keyston Bros. Etc.

 

Looking at a headliner from inside the car, there are places where the seams "break over" as they curve down to the edge. Pay attention to how far up the seam from the edge the breakover points, or corners are. It may be an important clue later. The breakover points show up pretty well in this picture due to the lighting.

 

 

Also pay attention to how far the front bow is back from the windshield, and how far the rear bow is from the back window.

 

A headliner is suspended by bows. They look like this:

 

 

Keep track of which one is which, they are probably all different. Kill all the rust really good and paint them. They need to be silky smooth for a nice wrinkle free installation, and if the rust comes back due to the inevitable condensation that collects in a headliner, they could make a visible stain.

 

When you buy a headliner it looks like this:

 

 

Each one of those white things is a sleeve you slide a bow through The breakover points are the ends of the sleeves. More on that in a minute.

 

Put the bows in in order, and put the headliner up. Make sure the sleeves are centered on the bows. Attach the headliner at the front and rear in the center. Don't trim anything yet. I imagine they probably tack or staple. Some cars capture the ends of the headliner under the glass gaskets. On those, you have to have the glass out.

 

Adjust front to rear and get a little tension on it. The bows usually stand straight up in the middle. The ones at the end vary, and may be leaning out a bit. It really helps to know how the bows were positioned before. In any event the they should not be hitting on anything, except maybe some really soft insulation.

 

Attach a good swath at the center (of the front and rear), but not all the way across. Now you will attach the sides. Do whatever was done originally, but most cars have some alligator strips like these:

 

 

In this picture , you can see windlace already installed. It probably staples or tacks to some cardboard or wood in a recess, then the alligator strips screw on over the top. Do all this before hanging the headliner if you can. On some cars the alligator strips block the bows in, and you have to do it after.

 

To attach the sides, you need a smooth blunt instrument like a butter knife. I have not found a picture of this. Start with the end of a seam. Hold the end of the seam tightly with your fingers. With the butter knife, push some fabric in, tightening the end of the seam. By carefully controlling how hard you pull on the seam and how hard you push on the knife, and the angle of the knife, you should be able to hook, tighten, or unhook. Unhooking is toughest. Don't trim anything. If the breakover point is too low, you need to slice the sleeve with a razor blade and try again. Tread carefuly because there is no way to fix it if you go too far. It helps if you know how high the breakover points were before. Do a bow in the middle of the car and do both ends. The idea is to get all the wrinkles out of the seam itself, and the breakover points where they belong. If the breakover is too low, it will be impossible to get rid of the wrinkles out of the seam. Do the rest of the seam ends on the bows.

 

Once you have all the seams tight, then start attaching the areas inbetween the seams, using the same method. Start halfway between 2 seams. Pulling this part tight should get rid of any remaining wrinkles, and gives the sections of the headliner their characteristic "bulge". Adjust tension as necessary using the same method you did on the seams.

 

When the parts inbetween the seams look good, go around and attach the corners using whatever method the factory used. Look it over good. If it is ok, you can trim the excess from the front and back and put the window trim back on. Does it still look good? Now, trim the excess along the sides as close as you can get it, and push any remianing tail up inside using the butter knife.

 

 

Edited May 7, 2018 by Bloo (see edit history)

[Rusty_OToole]

I feel your pain. It is possible to make an excellent interior for far less money if you don't insist on the exact material and if you can do your own sewing. This requires a heavy duty upholstery machine. I have done seats and panels by buying the material, cutting and fitting it and having a real upholsterer (my brother) do the sewing. Upholsterers who do sofas and chairs hate cars, they are too much hard work. But if you know someone they may not mind doing the sewing.

[AntiqueCraftsman]

I'm not sure if I would call it "pain".   I actually want to restore the car myself.  It feels good to do it.    Just buying all new parts and bolting them on turns me into not much more than a robot. 

 

See, God knew that I like to do everything myself so She made sure to create me in a state of perpetual poverty. Otherwise I might get lazy and just buy everything already built and be bored to death.   We can't have that.

[AntiqueCraftsman]

Thanks for the detailed post Bloo.  Lot of good tips and explanations there.   Still, I think this is somewhat of an art and is probably going to be difficult to get it right on a first try.  Even using a prefab headliner.    I might try to vacuum mine today if I can find time.   See how well it holds up to being vacuumed.   I have a feeling it's going to rip.

[AntiqueCraftsman]

Rear Passenger Wheel

 

I pulled the first wheel today.  This is just for inspection purposes.  Not doing any repairs yet.

 

Just taking notes:

 

1. Frame is immaculate!  And it's like a bridge I-Beam.  Unbelievably heavy.  GREAT!

2. I could get a good look at the gas tank too and it looks to be in pretty good shape actually.

3. Shock absorber is in tack and all the linkage appears to be connected and in good shape.

(don't know how good the shocks are, but at least they are on the car and all connected up properly)

4.  Leaf spring appears to be in good shape.  No broken leaves.  I'll saturate this leaf spring with oil before replacing the wheel.

5. Brake drum is in excellent shape.  Only superficial surface rust.  No scoring or gouges on the braking surface. 

(this will clean up very nicely with just a rag with some degreasing solvent.)

6. The shoes are fair.  The front shoe is worn more than the rear one.

(if the shoes are symmetrical I might swap them around at a later date, but for now these appear to be usable to get started with)

7. The wheel cylinder appears to be leaking very slightly, so that will need to be rebuilt.

8. There is a broken brake return spring.  No biggie there.  Looks like the only spring on the brakes save for the shoe hold-down springs. ]

9. The wheel is in great shape.  But the tire is dry rotted.  I'm not driving on those!  But it does hold air.

10.  The axle seal must be good as there is no sign of axle lube leaking.

11. This has just been an inspection.  You may now return to your normally scheduled activities.

 

I have other work in real life to do, so I only be doing a wheel a day for a while.

 

I just came in to post these photos.  I'm going back out to oil the spring and put the wheel back together for now.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 7, 2018 by AntiqueCraftsman (see edit history)

[Rusty_OToole]

You can buy brake overhaul kits for a few bucks, that have new rubbers and seals. Clean or hone the cylinder, if it is not rust pitted then put in the seal kit you are good to go.

 

Carefully inspect the brake lines, if they are rusty you should put on new ones for safety even if they are not leaking or broken. You can buy ready made brake lines at your local parts store, they are not expensive. Get the latest copper nickel type, they are a little more expensive but very easy to work with and will last forever, they never rust.

 

You can buy 'brake hardware kits' that have all the springs and doo dads. A good investment if the old springs are rusty.

 

Old brake linings can separate and peel off the shoe so inspect for this. Also, they can look ok on the outside edge but the inside edge be more worn. But, if they are not peeling or worn, and do not have any grease or brake fluid on them they should be ok. I would replace them on general principles but that is your call. Try pricing the parts on Rockauto before you make up your mind.

 

Shock absorbers last the life of the car. Clean off the top and unscrew the cap. Check for oil with your finger. If they need fluid top up with hydraulic jack oil from the auto parts store or hardware store. This is a normal part of servicing and lubricating the chassis. You only need to replace or rebuild them if the seal leaks like a sieve and all the fluid runs out. A small amount of leakage is normal. If the seals are bad you can wrap string tightly around the shaft for a make shift seal and top them up regularly. Rebuilt shocks are available but they are expensive.

 

Stock brakes are adequate for all normal driving. But remember, you only have a single master cylinder. This means you want the brakes to be in good shape and no mistake. And you want the hand brake to be in tip top shape, just in case.

[AntiqueCraftsman]

The hand brake is working really well.   I'm actually surprised at that since hand brakes are often the first thing to freeze up.

 

I've rebuilt quite a few brake systems, including rebuilding disk brake cylinders.  I have all the special brake tools, including two different types of tubing flare tools.   I always replace the brake line tubing on every used car I buy as a standard procedure.   Although the tubing on this car doesn't actually look all that bad.  I'll still replace it eventually.

 

In fact, the following new parts came with the car:

 

2 Wheel Cylinder rebuild kits.

And one complete "Custom Hot Rod braking system"

It includes:

1. Dual Master Cylinder

2. Special Mounting bracket for a 1947 Chevy

3. New Brake line tubing and fittings.

4. Proportional value along with instructions on where to mount it.

5. And a bag of new hardware pieces.

 

Since this came with the car I may as well install it eventually. 

 

I might try to just get the original brakes up and running first though just for preliminary test drive.

 

The attachment shows the parts that came with the car.

 

 

[AntiqueCraftsman]

I'm accidentally starting the restoration.   I couldn't help myself.   Should I start a restortation thread in the "Our Cars and Restoration Projects" forum?  Is that what that forum is for?   Just anyone can post their restoration project there?

 

In any case, the interior of this car stinks to high heaven.  And it's all ripped and rotten.  So it definitely needs a new interior.   I couldn't help but start in on at least one door panel.   I would like to document what I do, and a restoration thread would be perfect for that I supposed.  Other's could see what I'm doing as well.

 

Here's some shots of what I've done.  I'm learning as I go.  Originally I was just going to trash the old door panel and make a new one from scratch.  But now I'm thinking that it might be a lot easier, and nicer if I actually reuse the original door panel substrates.

 

Here's some photos of the disassembly of one door.   I've ordered the new material to replace the old.  As soon as the material comes in I'll try to reassemble this door panel and see how it goes.