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425 Nailhead identification problems


Riviera 66
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Hi

I need some help identify a 425 engine I just bought.

The reason I bought this is because my block is cracked and hopefully this block is ok :-) This engine has original bore and has almost no wear in the cylinderwalls :-)

The problem on this engine is that there is no number or letters in front of the valley pan. The block cast says B1364704 which indicates a 63-66 

One head has cast no. B 1374603 E and the other one 1196914J The engine has the lifting pad eye at the rear. The crankshaft is different from my 66 425 as my flywheel want fit and I have a 66 SP400 I am planing on using. The engine paint is all gone but it looks like it has been painted blue on top of silver on the intake and heads? also there is only 2 grooves on the pulley at the balancer.

Anyone who can tell me what year this is and is the crankshaft for a dynaflow ? If so can I machine my flywheel to fit the crank and use the sp400 trans?

 

Brgds

Thomas

 

 

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The lifting "eye" is '66 ONLY.  The casting is '63-'66, but we know by the "eye" that it's a '66. The rear of the crank is for a DynaFlow trans. I have adapters bushings for this to convert to a ST400. Someone swapped in a 'DynaFlow crank for use in a '63 or earlier car equipped with a DynaFloow.  '63's were painted silver in Riv's. BUT, being a '66 engine it could have been Red or Blue(Buick Green-Late). The crank from your '66 can be used in the this engine. Where is the crack located on your original engine??? They CAN be successfully repaired. ALL your original pulleys can interchange.

 

 

Tom T.

 

 

 

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Hi. I think i will swap the crank from my cracked engine. The crack is about 2 inches long over the rear valvelifter to cyl.#7 leaking water into the engine and it is very close to the lifter oil galley. This engine has 0.040 overbore and with welding I suspect the cylinder walls will be damaged?

Thanks

 

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the crack sounds like it can be repaired by stitching & NOT welding. Depends on how close it is to the lifter bore. Maybe a pic???

That's definitely an odd place for a crack. The normal area is buy the starter.

Would you have & be willing to sell the 2 groove water pump pulley. I would also take the 2 groove crank pulley if the $$$ are OK.

The cam doesn't look too good in the pic provided. Also, may want to freshen up the engine with new rings, bearings, timing chain, etc. while it's out of the car.

 

 

Tom T.

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Hi. I am living in Norway so there is the is probably more freight cost than part cost? I have new cam and all valves guides lifters and adjustable rockers put into the cracked engine. I bought all parts from m.russel centerville. I was breaking in the cam when I realized the crack? my plan is to get the "new" block checked honed or bore it if necessary and balance the crank assembly and put over the cam etc. I will see if I can get a picture tomorrow. I'm sure we can work something out regarding the 2 groove pulley.

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20 hours ago, telriv said:

the crack sounds like it can be repaired by stitching & NOT welding. Depends on how close it is to the lifter bore. Maybe a pic???

That's definitely an odd place for a crack. The normal area is buy the starter.

Would you have & be willing to sell the 2 groove water pump pulley. I would also take the 2 groove crank pulley if the $$$ are OK.

The cam doesn't look too good in the pic provided. Also, may want to freshen up the engine with new rings, bearings, timing chain, etc. while it's out of the car.

 

 

Tom T.

Tom. I dont have the 2 groove pulley for the waterpump. I post a picture of the crack highlighted the crack with a marker. I dismantled the "new" motor today to prepare it for cleaning. The crank on this motor looks very good so I would like to re-use it. Is the adapter you mentioned the only thing I need to use the 66 sp400 trans? If so do I need to have this adapter fitted before I send the crank for balancing? I will need new pistons as well as I will bore it up to get it right this time..

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If this engine was with a Dynaflow transmission, then you'll need to use the starter motor that's on your original engine.  With the adapter, you'll use everything from the original car.  The adapter is only needed so your flex plate will bolt to the crank hub. The nailhead is externally balanced so the flex plate is part of that assembly.

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Riviera66,

 

   NO, you don't need the adapter right away. But, as Ed said the flex-plate from your cranked engine will need to be used for the balancing part. Also, the harmonic balancer as they are balanced as an assembly.  You grind that extension off flush with the face of the crank. The adapter will NOT be needed as it WILL NOT affect the outcome of the balance job since it's in the center of the crank. Now is the time to get one of your two balancers rebuilt or buy one of my SFI approved balancers made for our "Nails".

   I also have forged pistons available that will maintain your compression when rebuilding that I worked on for more than 2 yrs. with a piston manufacturer. They include pistons, pins, pin-fitting & rings. I can get you ANYTHING you need for your rebuild.  I ship overseas ALL the time.

Only problem is I ONLY use Western Union for payment on overseas shipping.

 

That crack CAN't be fixed because of the location. If it didn't go so far down into the lifter bore It would have been repairable.

 

 

Tom T.

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