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Wheel Alignment Shims


ChrisWhewell

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Hi, a couple years ago I was buying something from Rock Auto, and they were having a close-out special on shims for rear wheel alignment. So I bought a bunch of them, they were super cheap. Also got a camber bolt kit for the front. But..... I saw a lot of posts about how the rear alignment isn't adjustable. And I'm wondering about the camber bolt kit... I mean, the parts say on their packaging they're for Reatta.... but I've seen contradicting info. I guess I'm just wondering if anyone's ever used shims on the rear wheel alignment, or the camber bolt kit on the front. Camber bolt kit is Moog K6378.

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I Bought shims from Rock Auto 2 years ago after getting the car aligned. Shop gave me the values needed for the rear and they said none of their sources had the rear shims available. I also got the Camber Bolt Kit for the front but have not needed it. The rear shims install between the rear hub and knuckle.

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When the shop install the shims be sure to make clear they are not to put any weight on the sensor leads. Remember these leads are obsolete. The shop sometimes just lets the calipers, hub assemblies hang from the brake line and wheel speed sensor lead.

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I took it to the shop for an alignment. When I did the struts, I "eyeballed" it in. the results of the alignment machine were that everything was dead nuts, except the toe on the left front, off 2 degrees. cost me 89 bucks to have the dude twist the inner tie rod arm a couple rotations.

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lol, I have a good eye. I laid 1000's of square feet of tile on floors and walls, built my workshop also without ever snapping a chalk line. Same with wheel alignments, just look at the d&rn thing !! that's all anyone else is going to do, look at it. Its like Chevy Chase's character in Caddyshack told the kid about golfing, "be the ball" heh-heh

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18 hours ago, ChrisWhewell said:

Same with wheel alignments, just look at the d&rn thing !! that's all anyone else is going to do, look at it.

 

I hope you are kidding. I can't think of a faster way to wear out a new set of tires than doing a half-ass wheel alignment.

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To each their own. I did the same on my 98 Riv, came out dead nuts in spec on the machine. Pretty much, caster isn't going to be an issue. So you're left with camber and toe. Straighten the steering wheel, and just look at each wheel, separately from above, and together from the front from 20 feet away. For camber you need a buddy to tighten the bolts while you hold it where it needs to be. Toe is just a twist of the tie rod ends. This isn't rocket science.

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I didn't mean to offend you with my comments. I was just talking about poor alignment jobs in general.  Personally I seek out alignment shops that have mechanics that only do alignments and who are recognized as being the best at what they do.

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