1937 Radio Wiring Diagram?

[John_Mc]

As you might have read earlier, I'm attempting to iron out my wiring issues on my 1937 Zephyr.  I've studied the wiring diagram but the radio connection is not shown.  Questions, 1) would the main radio power feed come from the output side of the circuit breaker, on the same post with the headlight feed, clock and horn?? 2) Where does the heater blower get its power??  It is not shown on the diagram either.  Any help along these lines would be very helpful.   I'm coming to the end of this part of the restoration but I've got to get this all straightened out.  Thanks in advance.

[Ray500]

The radio power is from the ignition switch that provides the 6 volt power to all the accessories when you turn the key on to start/run the vehicle.  You can get that from the output of the main circuit breaker which protects the battery/wiring from short circuits in the electrical wiring.  Connecting directly to the ignition switch is fine, just make sure you have the line fuse on the radio main lead wire in case the radio shorts out and it won't effect the rest of the electrical circuits.  A 5-7 amp fuse should be fine.  You don't want to connect directly to the battery as you will forget to turn off the radio at times and it will eventually run down the 6 volt battery after you turn off the ignition and remove the key.  Hopefully you've installed an Optima 6 volt battery as they are the strongest and give the best service with a trickle charger to keep it up when you're not driving the car.  And they don't leak and corrode the mounting. Good luck with it!   

[John_Mc]

Thank you Ray, so it sounds like the best way is to run it off the output post of the circuit breaker along with the headlight switch.  What about the clock and heater blower, same place??

[Ray500]

Yes, as long as it's a 'switched off' circuit when you turn off the key (ignition) to conserve the battery.  I have a modified radio I built up with a new 180  watt module available that gives AM/FM performance but in the same encasement as the original radio.  Lots of work, but a better sounding radio with higher power and hidden speakers.  It also requires 12 volts which I use an inverter from 6-12 volts and an additional small hidden 12 volt battery to keep the voltage smooth (12volts) to the radio.  Looking at the radio installed you can't tell it's not the original.  I do have the original radio which I totally overhauled if I should ever need to replace it.  I have others too I collected unrestored.  Those radios were made by Zenith and most of the wiring insulation fell apart and lots of old defective capacitors have to be replaced if it's to be restored to it's original performance.  There's always the tendency to try to improve the old stuff to today's new stuff!   Actually one of the best improvements is to change out the light bulbs with LEDs  instead of the old incandescent ones to save battery energy too!   

[John_Mc]

If I want to keep it 100% stock, is my hand drawn sketch correct?  The printed wiring diagram is maddening!  Thanks for all the input.

 

[19tom40]

John, Your diagram is correct .

 

I listened to the noise and I would not drive the car. It sounded like the clip that holds a guide in place is not in the correct position. Continued running of the engine could cause the valve head to break off.

[John_Mc]

Tom,  thank God, I finally have it right!!!  I find that sometimes I just need to start with a clean sheet of paper and draw the thing myself.

  

Also, the noise is fixed.....................I kind of feel stupid but what it ended up being was a couple of fan blades (they are of different lengths, believe it or not in 1937 which I did not know and that's why I discounted the fan being the cause) were hitting the screw that holds on the water hose!!!  Once re-positioned, the engine is perfect, and I should have called you to tell you, but I hate to be a constant bother.

 

One last thing Tom, it appears that the radio capacitor is wired in series with the power lead, is that as it should be??? 

 

Thanks again for all the help.

 

[Ray500]

The main lead from the distribution 'bar' is fine for connecting the "A" lead to the radio as it should be switched off when the ignition is off.  The  light circuit is connected to the dial lamp in the radio behind the dial and should come on when the light switch is on and the radio is on.  The capacitor I think you're looking at is a noise suppression for generator and other switch clicks to minimize interference to the AM radio.  It's connected to the "A" lead from the radio at the terminal block with the body of the capacitor grounded.  There are other capacitors and filters inside the radio.  Also typically these motors and ignitions do radiate noise on the AM radio, especially the spark plugs and sometimes the distributor.  It's a real 'tail-chase' to minimize the noise, especially on weak stations you might listen to.  Make sure your antenna is properly grounded on it's housing inside the fender too as it will pickup noise.  Good luck with it!    Ray

[John_Mc]

Ray and Tom, thanks for all the input!  The radio is fused as well so I feel it's pretty safe.

 

Final results

 

Edited April 7, 2018 by John_Mc (see edit history)

[19tom40]

Glad that your car seems to be sorted out. Ray did a great job of explaining how to hook up the radio and filter capacitor.

 

It was nice to find an easy fix for the noise. It is hard for me to distinguish noises over a cell phone. The new one that I have has a lousy speaker and that makes it harder yet.

[Ray500]

Hi Tom....if the speaker in your radio is bad, there are people who recone them and restore their sound.  Not much in new speakers are out there, the electronic industry has pretty disappeared except for newer replacement items.  Antique Radio Supply out in Phoenix has parts for the radios like tubes and speakers.  I have used reconing services in the past as I restore old radios from the 30s to the 50s as a hobby and often you need to have them reconed.  Over time moisture and age causes the paper cones in speakers to fail.  It's a tricky thing to have the correct cones....usually an 8 inch one for the Lincoln radios....and those cones still are out there.  Let me know if you have trouble finding one.  

[19tom40]

Ray, I was talking about my hearing problem and cell phone speakers. The electronics in my cell phone and the speaker are not a very good quality. It is an older smart phone and not anywhere as good as my old "dumb phone", but it was a gift and I have to use it for a while until I can say that it wore out.

 

My car radios are fine. The speaker and tone in my Lincoln radio sound very good to an old guy with hearing in only one ear. I had my Mercury radio serviced a couple of years ago and it sound very good with music from my MP3 player.

 

Thanks for the offer of help, I appreciate your willingness to find a good speaker for me.

[John_Mc]

Ray & Tom,  just as a follow up, I want to let you know all is well with my Zephyr.  All the accessories including the heater fan, the radio (sound coming from the original 80 year-old paper speaker is amazing and the dial light comes on just as it should!), headlights/parking/dash lights and even the dome light work exactly as intended.  VERY satisfying indeed and I thank you for answering all of the newbee questions! 

Edited April 9, 2018 by John_Mc (see edit history)