Engine rebuild questions on a 1926 Dodge Brothers 6V

[Wheelmang]

I posted this in the Dodge Brothers forum and then thought my questions are more applicable to engines in general rather than specific to DB. Any assistance is greatly appreciated. We were out for a quick ride on my road and threw a rod on a 1926 DB 6V. 

 

The last engine I did a full rebuild on was either a 460 Lincoln or a slant 6 Dodge. It was that long ago that I do not remember which one was last but both cars were a long way from being antiques when the rebuilds were done. So - a lot of questions now and I am sure many more to follow as this project progresses. 

So here we go!

I still need to drop the pan and make sure that there is nothing internal that will prevent me going forward this rebuild. That will likely be in a couple of weeks. In the mean time some pre-planning and questions. I really hope to save this engine as I am pretty sure it is original to the car. 

- Will I be able to use a connecting rod from another engine or should I purchase new?  I have at least 8 spares.

- Are the prices I have, so far, about right?

- Any type of guesstimate for what to expect on the block labor? The local speed shop is out until Thursday. 

- My welder says the crack may be better serviced by brazing? The crack appears to be only on the area around the pan bolt. The oil pan dent will need some hammering out as well.  Your comments pro or con on brazing please. I hope to grind it down smooth before sending the block to the machine shop. 

 

- Since main and rod bearing are all going to need re-babbitting is keeping them with current position critical? I presume at least number four rod is going to need replacing and expect the         bearing will not be usable. 

- I have a spare crank shaft. If the current one is damaged is there any reason the spare cannot be ground and used for replacement even though not from this engine originally?

- Should I pull the camshaft? If so what additional processes with be required? How is the cam retainer, on the side of block under the generator, removed? 

- Remove engine and transmission as an assembly or disconnect transmission first. 

 

Please advise of anything I am missing. Still only in the planning stage but would like to eliminate as many surprises as possible. I still have the back up spare engine if this build just is not feasible but that will need most of what I will need on the engine here. Just has things like cam and crank and rods that are original. Oh and no crack!

I deeply appreciate the expert guidance from this membership. Progress pictures will be posted as they happen and will likely be a few months in process. 

Thanks 

Paul

[jan arnett (2)]

Paul let me answer a couple of your questions.  Since you will be pouring new bearings you can use a crank from another engine.  You can also use rods from another engine.  I would first try and figure out what caused the old engine to throw a rod.  I would magnaflux any part that is going back into the engine.  I normally just pull the engine.  I would keep the caps in the correct position just so you get in the habit of doing.   If you do not bore all four cyc. there is no reason to replace the pistons.  Same goes for valves, springs, and guides which may be ok.  Just put them in the same location that they came out of.  I would change out the rings either way.  You may or may not want to pull the came based on the condition of the lifters

[Rusty_OToole]

The weight of the rod may be a factor. Both the big end and small end affect balance. Back when your car was new they took considerable trouble over getting the balance as good as possible. All 4 rods should be identical. Sometimes they changed rod and piston design to get a better balance factor.  Road speeds were getting higher and there were no rubber engine mounts back then. It is a good idea to use pistons of the same weight as the old ones and have the engine balanced.

 

When it comes to welding or brazing a block there is a pinning process called lock in stitch that is preferred these days.