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55 roadmaster 322 , 2 barrel carb problems


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2 hours ago, thegnu said:

as for now im fairly confident that it will get me around to the local shows an hangouts .

 

 

And so you want to spend a bunch of money, time and aggravation to further modify a nice car that will likely never do what you hoped and imagined, when you will likely never do more with it than putz around to the "local shows and hang outs" with it?  Been there, done that, can't really recommend it..................Bob

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9 hours ago, Bhigdog said:

 

And so you want to spend a bunch of money, time and aggravation to further modify a nice car that will likely never do what you hoped and imagined, when you will likely never do more with it than putz around to the "local shows and hang outs" with it?  Been there, done that, can't really recommend it..................Bob

no no no your miss understanding me . that's only the plan for now , I really don't care about having big horse power , I prefer mild performance an reliability an ease of repair . once I get it where I want it , it will be driven a lot . my  rat wrecker {more of a street rod that I put 3500 miles on last summer } is probably the most reliable hot rod I own right now an if I feel like driving it 200 miles on a whim I know it will more than likely get me there an back . that's the mechanical plan for the 55 . im just going to make due with what I have for now . besides I think the nailhead an dynaflow would be really cool in a t- bucket build . further more my wife would tell you all , she has learned all things are subject to change on a moments notice with me when it comes to my cars .

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Just get any ignition or carb issues sorted out and that engine will cruise at any speed or miles.  Since it is showing some wear, it may only last 50,000 to 70,000 miles.  If you wait for it to be totally worn out there may even be electric options available.

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3 hours ago, thegnu said:

further more my wife would tell you all , she has learned all things are subject to change on a moments notice with me when it comes to my cars .

 

:lol:

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 3/28/2018 at 7:46 PM, thegnu said:
On 3/28/2018 at 5:06 PM, old-tank said:

The engine number should have one more number digit...anyhow if the last number is 5 then is was originally in a 55 Super (series 50).

Updated rotor? (need more info)

I spent about an hour in an older parts store here with my micrometer an cross checking part numbers , if I find the box I will post the part number of the newer rotor , im sure it  came from a 60's gm product .

Still checking??

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30 minutes ago, old-tank said:

Still checking??

oh shit so sorry I forgot all about that , the bodyshop is swimming in cars , big hits lil hits an rust repairs . thanks for reminding me , I wrote it down an stuck the note on my computer screen .

 

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10 hours ago, Airy Cat said:

I have been running Pertronix ignition on my three Buicks on 12volts for at least 10 years and no problems.

 

Drive it across the country at 500+ miles a day and report back ( probably on day 2).?

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General consensus on the internet is that Pertronix was good until the last couple years. It left me stranded in December of 2016 three times, where I spent my time white knuckled setting points with a matchbook in the parking lot of my community college and a Chuck E. Cheese's sandwiched between a liquor store and lingerie store.

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3 hours ago, NTX5467 said:

(And the failures were caused by?  Just curious, but not as curious as the placement of those business establishments).

 

Not sure, all three of them just died when I went to start the car. The first time I ran it with the pertronix coil, no ballast resistor like the instructions advised. The second time I ran my own coil with the ballast resistor and the third time I gave them the benefit of the doubt. It just worked and then didn't, like an internal short or something. When returned, they concluded the module just died so don't know what to tell you in that regard. 

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