1991 Reatta Stall

[gmgold49]

Our very nice condition 1991 Reatta Coupe has a new feature.  Out of the blue, it decided to stall, but it will restart.  Conditions:  Engine warmed up, no throttle pressure since both times, slight braking.  Once at about 25 mph, once at about 40 mph.  No humidity, outside temperature moderate.

I have a hunch there are many possible causes and I need to sort through them in some sort of logical order.  Any suggestions on what to look at sooner than later?

Should have added:  First thing was to check codes, of which there were none.  Needless to say it doesn't stall on request to show to various people I've asked out here. 

Edited March 16, 2018 by gmgold49
Added note (see edit history)

[Ronnie]

Welcome to the forum!

The most common cause of stalling  and restarting as you describe is a bad Ignition Control Module. I'm not sure this applies to a '91 but look for a gray/green goo on the side of the ICM, marked with red arrow in the photo below. If you see the goo you can be assured the ICM is failing and needs to be replaced. Another common failure that will cause stalling is the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Checking fuel pressure is always a good idea to rule out a bad fuel pump or other fuel related problems. If you have more question feel free to ask.

 

[Cargirl]

I think the first thing I would do is pull the engine codes. The car itself may tell you what ails it. Go to www.reattaowner.com to find out how to do this .

[KDirk]

Yes, do check for codes, but keep in mind an ignition control module fault will not set any codes. The lack of any codes may in fact point to an ignition problem. 

[rogold99]

Also, check for loose battery connections.

 

[retiredmechanic74]

If I were a betting person (which I'm not) I would change the fuel pump.

[DS_Porter 89 Burgandy]

Fuel pump can be checked with a gauge attached to the port that is on the fuel rail. With all other accessories off you should be able to hear the fuel pump come on with the key cycling on for 2 seconds then it stops if the engine is not started. About 45psi with engine off and about 37psi running.

  With no codes the likely place to start is the ICM or the Crankshaft Position Sensor - CPS. Good idea to change both but change one thing at time.

ICM is about $100

CPS is about $35

Both are available from local auto parts but the http://thereattastore.com/

has already researched the most reliable part numbers.  Good luck

[retiredmechanic74]

1 hour ago, DS_Porter 89 Burgandy said:

Fuel pump can be checked with a gauge attached to the port that is on the fuel rail. With all other accessories off you should be able to hear the fuel pump come on with the key cycling on for 2 seconds then it stops if the engine is not started. About 45psi with engine off and about 37psi running.

  With no codes the likely place to start is the ICM or the Crankshaft Position Sensor - CPS. Good idea to change both but change one thing at time.

ICM is about $100

CPS is about $35

Both are available from local auto parts but the http://thereattastore.com/

has already researched the most reliable part numbers.  Good luck

That's a good idea for checking for a performance problem but it can't be checked if the engine suddenly dies out. I believe after all is said and done it will be the pump causing the problem. However you could hook up a Gage and keep it in the car and when it dies you can see if you lost all the pressure.

Edited March 19, 2018 by retiredmechanic74 (see edit history)