cxgvd Posted March 16, 2018 Share Posted March 16, 2018 I purchased a standard 6V coil from my local UAP store and noticed it is the same length and smaller diameter than an original coil which I got with the 1915 C25. Got me to thinking if I could hide the new coil in the old casing and use the wiring connecters. A shorter coil would work? I went back to the parts store but they couldn't tell the sizes from their books. Is this a doable project, is their someone I could turn to for help? Electricity is not my best subject. I could mount the new coil as is to the housing easily but it would not look right. In the photo are the parts I have to work with. Thanks in advance, Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted March 16, 2018 Share Posted March 16, 2018 Gary: I really think that it is doable. When I taught small gas engines years ago I made a sectional of a coil for demonstrations. To cut the case with a hack saw or a cutting wheel is easy enough. The plastic top where the primary and secondary wires can be cut or carefully broken to expose the wiring. Carefully re route the wires and solder to the corresponding terminals to the original case making sure they are insulated with high temp tubing. Once the new core is put in the original case melted wax can be added to seal and secure the coil. Good luck. Larry 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cxgvd Posted March 16, 2018 Author Share Posted March 16, 2018 Thanks Larry. Seems as if I could do this except when I asked the parts guy said the coil is oil filled. Messy and what does the oil do? Would the wax you mention replace the oil? Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbaron1930 Posted March 16, 2018 Share Posted March 16, 2018 Oil is in the coils for cooling, you might be able to find a newer epoxy encapsulated coil which might make the job easier. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted March 16, 2018 Share Posted March 16, 2018 I attempted to do something like this on my '18 Buick. Here is a comparison of what an old coil (top) and guts of a new coil (bottom) are like. I never did get the job done. The core of the original is solid with a screw running through it. The core of the new coil was a whole bunch of rather loose metal strips. I'd be interested in knowing how you come out 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cxgvd Posted March 17, 2018 Author Share Posted March 17, 2018 When you mess about with 100 year old cars people ask where parts are sourced and I say I have to make them. I thought that meant I know a good machine shop, a plater who works with nickel and a shop that cuts gears. I can repair my antique coil. Begin. The screws securing the case to the ends removed easily. I thought heat would be needed to remove the insides of the old coil. My wife said not to use her toaster oven so I borrowed one from the neighbour. I started with the lowest setting but wound up at 350 F before orange coloured goo dripped out. Now I will cut the wires to the connectors then back into the heat to melt out the remaining residue, which is hard and plastic when it cools. Regards, Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cxgvd Posted March 17, 2018 Author Share Posted March 17, 2018 Top picture is the antique coil cleaned and ready for the new innards. Bottom one is the insides of the new one. Now unsolder three wires from the new and re solder to the same connections in the old housing. Fill the remaining space in the restored coil with candle wax or I have a product called Evirotechlite ( think of a coin suspended in Lucite) which would be permanent and irreversible. Install the end cap and then a restored piece of electrical equipment I did myself, with some forum help and encouragement. Thanks, Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 (edited) Nice going Gary. I knew you would go for it! I have done some radio restoration, in particular Atwater Kent Bread board components. Since Atwater Kent started out doing ignition systems they continued that same technology into their radio engineering. One of the first integral radio components in a single case. Meaning, voltage control, amplifier transformers and all connections sealed in a can. The unit on the right had 2 Radio Frequency transformers and 2 Audio transformers buried (potted)in the sealing compound The potting compound was an asphalt compound (tar). I have used an oven to heat that stuff out. Nasty! Early RCA Superheterodyne sets used a beeswax compound in their "catacombs" to seal all the transformers from moisture. What a pain to service! Edited March 18, 2018 by dibarlaw Added content (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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