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What came loose?


Turbinator

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From the sound of things, your motor is probably fine. It's amazing what a difference that thick washer can make. The washer took most of the brunt of the damage in my case. The universal plate I mentioned is probably better described as a pulley holder. I bought one of the OTC Stinger products (on Amazon, Summit etc.) but instead ended up using a plate type (an old friend I bought years ago at Jegs) with more hole options. Lots of guys make these out of scrap steel, pipes and I've even heard of some guys making them out of hardwood. Just find the right bolt hole configuration, bolt the plate to the balancer, put a 1/2 drive with a long handle in the square hole, gently turn the assembly with a breaker bar slowly, let it roll around so the 1/2 handle is pinned to either the floor or the frame. It won't let the motor turn. Then get out your new bad assed 250LB torque wrench and tighten to spec. I did mine without a lift. I did have to remove the fan shroud and upper/lower hoses. Without a lift, you'll need to twist the nut to 220 from the top to get leverage. Good luck. PRL

 

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On 3/19/2018 at 11:04 AM, 60FlatTop said:

 

Rocket science is a pretty boring occupation. There are so many things that AREN'T rock science. Here's a group of bored rocket scientists.

miserable-men-instagram-men-shopping-wit

I would think the scenery inside a Victoria's Secret would be a lot more interesting than watching a bunch of cars go by.  Especially if you could find a chair close to the fitting room.

 

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On 3/18/2018 at 9:26 AM, Red Riviera Bob said:

Mr.Konga Man, the key in the shaft was a straight key or an axle key. True, the woodruff key is shaped in a half moon. “Key” in Industrial ceramics describes a ceramic shape, similar to the keystone shape in an arch. Nonetheless, the key in the shaft was a straight key and it stayed in place. The pulley/harmonic balancer stayed together and wobbled off the shaft because a washer was not in place with the bolt. 

‘I’m going to let the shop that did the job put it back together. I’ll then check the torque every 30 miles or so and keep a record of torque results. Of course, I’m at the mercy of the shop. Unfortunately, their services are uneven in their offering. Body and paint I’m most satisfied. The shop’s mechanics on my Buick are sub-par.

Thanks for the help.

Red Riviera Bob

Gents, the Red Riviera 63 is out of the shop. What come loose was the pulley and harmonic balancer came off the crank shaft. The pulley and the balancer came off because THE WRONG SiZE WASHER WAS On the crank shaft. Apparently, a PO of the vehicle had been doing some work and put back the wrong washer. My mechanic did not know any better, or didn’t care to know, and reinstalled the wrong  size washer. I bought the correct size washer and the shop reinstalled the pulley/balancer with the correct size washer. So now, the car runs fine at this point. I drove the car home about 15 miles and it sounded and ran fine. I stopped by “The Cow” frozen custard stand on the way home and got a cup of the best vanilla frozen custard in the country. The owner makes his own frozen custard and whipped cream from local dairy products. 

8480E0CF-B342-4AF6-94BB-FEE80A1E2951.jpeg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Gents, the big thick washer was put on the end of the shaft along with other parts as it was suppose to be.

ive driven the car over 100 miles without incident. The pulley/balancer is tight. There is no oil leaking anyplace.,The engine sounds great. Thank you for your help.

RRB

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  • 6 months later...

Attached is a picture of my timing chain that got whacked. The nut and harmonic balancer flew up the snout of the crankshaft. The said I had a dent in my chaining covet. The shop put epoxy on the timing chain cover indicating it was a minor cosmetic flaw. The timing chain began dripping oil. When the timing chain cover came see the trashy work I got from Eastcoast Restorations. I’m not through with shop owner for shoddy workmanship. 

The shop plugged my timing cover with fiberglass.

RRB

A6BF49B4-4B1C-47B3-B2F9-E5F0EE9C20DE.jpeg

478349C0-899F-4893-A303-6D768EE787D0.jpeg

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I'm confused.  It looks like the repaired damage was on the front of the cover.  Why would that cause it to leak?  Were the sealing surfaces clean and flat?  Or was it leaking around the seal?

 

It might be ugly, but there's no obvious reason it wouldn't be functional.

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13 hours ago, telriv said:

Bob,

 

   That cover was NG anyway. If they would have known better it should have been replaced during the original install.

Just curious Tom...are you seeing something in the area of the water pump which is responsible for condemning the cover?

Tom

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Gents, the cover was no good because when the nut on the end of the crank shaft and harmonic balancer flew off the flying parts knocked a hole in the timing cover. My beef is with Eastcoast Restorations in Finksburg MD for shoddy workmanship. The shop just plugged the hole with fiberglass and epoxy. The timing cover began to leak oil and when a replacement was reinstalled that is when I saw where the shop plugged the hole. Can you imagine that?

RRB

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11 hours ago, EmTee said:

Did you recheck the balancer nut following the cover replacement...? 

I checked to see if there was any wobble in the harmonic balancer. All was tight. I did not use a torquewrrnch to double check. The toque at 220 lbs was not I checked.

RRB

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On 10/26/2018 at 9:48 PM, KongaMan said:

That sounds like more than a dent. ;)  Dunno why they'd need to use a cup and a half of epoxy, though.

Mr Konga Man, they needed that much epoxy to cement the hole they were trying to cover up. Pls look at the pic showing the plug they put in the inside of the cover.

RRB

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