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57 body bolt length ?


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I broke all my body ( body to frame)bolts when a removed them on my 57 special so I can't measure them. I have not been able to find any info on what length the bolts are. My manual is a reprint so I can't read the part numbers in there for them. Anyone happen to know the lengths I need ? Also any info on where to get the metal sleeves that go into the rubber mounts to limit compression or should I just go to the hardwear store and cut some pipe to size for that ? Thanks. 

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Mack, Not sure about the bolt length, I'll try to find it tonight. As for the body mounts, why don't you just buy the ones from Bob's Automobilia or CARS. They already have the steel sleeve molded in and are the right thickness / height for the car. It would save you a lot of work and trial by error with the mount height / fit to the frame. Just a suggestion. More to follow.

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1 hour ago, 1957buickjim said:

Mack, Not sure about the bolt length, I'll try to find it tonight. As for the body mounts, why don't you just buy the ones from Bob's Automobilia or CARS. They already have the steel sleeve molded in and are the right thickness / height for the car. It would save you a lot of work and trial by error with the mount height / fit to the frame. Just a suggestion. More to follow.

I found all the mounts on CARS that's where I'm going to get them. It didn't look like they had the metal sleeves in them though. I emailed them about that this morning. On their site they list several different bolt lengths and I don't know which I need. I asked them that too. 

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40 minutes ago, Mack0331 said:

They show all the rubber mounts on their web page. Do you know a better place to look ? 

 

In the past they have been, shall we say, less than fastidious in the accuracy, fit, or even suitability of their parts. Hence the "good luck". Bob's has gotten good reports although I've never dealt with them.  For the bolt length let your ruler be your guide and visit your local hdwr store for grade 5 bolts. Use the $ saved to buy an adult beverage.........Bob

Edited by Bhigdog (see edit history)
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2 hours ago, Bhigdog said:

 

In the past they have been, shall we say, less than fastidious in the accuracy, fit, or even suitability of their parts. Hence the "good luck". Bob's has gotten good reports although I've never dealt with them.  For the bolt length let your ruler be your guide and visit your local hdwr store for grade 5 bolts. Use the $ saved to buy an adult beverage.........Bob

I broke all the bolts taking them out and didn't think it would be hard to find info on the length so I threw them away. Should have kept them or measured at the time I guess. 

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No biggie. Nothing special about them. Measure the pad, add the distance from the mount bottom to the floor or top of the rear kick up and add an inch. Or.........Mount the body and measure. Again, easy peasy. Did you save the body mount shims? Likely they won't go back the same. Mount the body and shim as required to get to best average level on the frame and call it good to go. Just like they did at the factory................Bob

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The above is a link to one of my posts regarding the process of changing frame insulators and bolts … best insulators I have found have been from Steele and Restoration Specialties …. Oh and  Mack I might also mention …. if your trying to insert a non pointed bolt up into the existing enclosed frame cage nut  … good luck …. it will be a challenge at best to get it to bite …. also see a problem of getting your broken bolt out of and free from the inner upper cage nut as mentioned without cutting into the floor pan to gain access to that particular frame cage nut box area….also make sure your so called " hard ware store" china bolts are 8 grade at least as well as to ensure they meet torsional specs …. also NOT having the distal partial thread pattern as to spec as well documented in my tutorial  will most likely facilitate the shred of your lower rubber vulcanized insulator or cause squeaking due to biting into barrel washer ...

 

IMO … I would try first to source the real deal factory bolts off of a donor … heat the bolt until the old rubbers smoke like a pig to cherry then douse with cold water and then repeat the procedure a few times … your success rate will increase exponentially as opposed to attaching the bolt cold with a long breaker bar …. good luck - uncle dave

Edited by buick man (see edit history)
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Thanks. I found a place with the factory bolts so yeah I'll be able to get those. I've had the body off since august getting ready to get it back on after I put the motor/ trans in this weekend. . The bolts that broke off in the body I'm going to hit with PB blaster a few times a day over the next week then it them with a torch and see what happens. 

20180203_154300.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Something I’ve done  to what seems like a zillion resto and rehabs is every nut bolt washer screw and other pieces like small brackets etc is to go over them with a high speed wire wheel. Then when they go back together they fit perfectly and spin right on. No more fighting cruddy hardware. I keep every original piece of hardware (not broke?) so it doesn’t take hours running nuts and bolts down. Works for me.

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