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Have 1989 TC, SOHC, 4-cyl.  First start of the day is OK, After running to normal temp and I shut it off, engine will not re-start (turns over but not start). Wait a couple of hours, engine will start and run normally.  Bottom line, engine will only start if cold.  Any ideas as to the problem?

 

 

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Guessing could lead you in the wrong direction and you may be buying parts you don't need, BUT if I were to take a wild guess, I would suggest the distributor pick-up plate.

4P1232__ra_p.jpg

4P1232__ra_t.jpg  The good thing about trying this, if it still does not start, at least you have the replacement part for when the original one fails. And thy do.

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3 hours ago, no1parfive said:

Would this malfunction only when engine is hot?  My engine starts OK when engine is cold.

It only shows up when the engine heats up and the pick-up plate heats up to begin with, until it fails altogether.  

Remember, this is only a "best guess". If you get a new pick-up plate and install it, you will soon see. If the problem persists, you need to give us some trouble codes to go on. Diagnosing long distance requires at least some basic information from you. We are here to help, but guessing in not the way to go.

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Does your tachometer register movement during  the hot no start condition?  It wont move much, the starter is only spinning the motor a couple hundred RPM's  but it should move some. if no bumping of the needle at all its your HEP/DPU as Mr Anderson said. If it moves you need to move onto the next potential culprit like low fuel pressure etc.

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4 hours ago, no1parfive said:

Tac moves when cranking, I'm now thinking more of a fuel pressure problem or distributor pick-up.

The tachometer would not be moving if it was the distributor pickup.  

Try testing the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge & hose setup made to attach at the fuel rail test connection.

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AND we've already established that the tach moves during cranking and no-start condition.  It's not the HEP, gotta move on with diagnosis...

 

 

Yes, fuel pressure can drop radically when the pump is weak and when *it* gets hot.  Not really when the motor is hot, but the pump it'self can build heat.  In fact a classic symptom of a failing fuel pump  is *car stalled, but it started again after I let it cool down.  Drove a few miles and it stalled again, restarted when cooled down*.  You could throw a pump at it (if i'm using parts store pumps I like the Airtex pumps, they usually are quality and come with all the pieces.  In fact, they will have the whole fuel level sensor and tank access door all attached and ready to drop in.)  It's a lot less work than disassembling the whole assembly and replacing only  the pump and hoses and pick up filter and...  But A better DIAGNOSTIC test would be to put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail schrader fitting and view it when the problem occurs but Im betting you don't have one of those so that means throw parts at it like you are the HEP switch.

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3 minutes ago, no1parfive said:

Replaced hall effect coil and ignition coil, problem still exists.  Will replace fuel pump, hope that is the problem, if not, I'm back at square one.

I am very surprised, Please let us know what caused it. I don't want to make that mistake again.  

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