Frank Tate Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 So, I thought I would post some in process shots of the TBird I am working on. I started this last year after having bought it as a basket case years ago. I am still working on the Super Convert, but started on this to try to get it done for my wife while we are still young enough to enjoy! As usual with buying a basket case, you hope you get all of it! So, the previous owner (PO) had already torn the car apart, disassembled the motor and had the block tanked. He had also painted the frame and some of the front suspension. After it sitting for a couple years while I took care of the house chores and had an addition put on the house so I would have a garage to work in, I decided to get cracking on it. The frame was showing signs of rust, so I took it to a chemical strip company and had it dipped along with a number of other parts while the engine block, heads and crank were at the machine shop. It came back nice and clean So, I got it painted with Chassis Black Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Tate Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 The engine came back from the machine shop And I started assembly Rebuilt the oil pump Found out I was missing the distributor and the harmonic balancer....both TBird specific. So, once I sourced those, I finished assembly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Tate Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 While I was sourcing the missing engine parts, I took the opportunity to work on the rear suspension. With Thanks to Gary and his Buick leaf springs series, I refurbed the TBird. I am happy with the way they came out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Tate Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 With the rear suspension done, I moved on to the front suspension with the idea that I could get the chassis on its wheels and mount the engine, thus freeing up some garage space. So, it was on to blasting and painting and putting new bushings in the upper and lower arms. Again, since I didn't take it apart I am looking for parts and information on how it goes back together. CTCI's restoration manual is a super resource! With all bushings in place: I am waiting on the special spacers that go between the lower front arm and the frame. Then I can install the ball joints and the spindle. And that is where I am at the moment, so while I am waiting on the spacer washers, I was going to powder coat the spindles and the brake parts. Which is when I found this: That top spindle is bent!!! So now I am on the hunt for a new spindle. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Tate Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 So, I got lucky today and a gentleman in Gaithersburg had an ad on Craigslist for the front suspension and he was willing to make me a deal. Now, it is back to clean up and powdercoating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARY F Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 It is looking good. You are moving right along. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luv2Wrench Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 Wonderful, thanks for sharing... excited to watch this project!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercer09 Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 looks good! looking for a motor for my 55 as well! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Tate Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 12 hours ago, mercer09 said: looks good! looking for a motor for my 55 as well! Where are you located? The gentleman I bought the suspension from told me he has a yblock available. Given that he is trying to downsize, his prices are very reasonable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercer09 Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 HI Frank- I am in NJ 08054-30 minutes from Philly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Tate Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 Here is the ad from Craigslist: https://baltimore.craigslist.org/pts/d/bird-1955-front-suspension/6476093470.html Give Jim a call and see what he can do for you. It is just a block I think, but he may have some additional parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 It's interesting to see that the front suspension parts from that Thunderbird are looking identical to the ones from A Mark II, especially the upper A-arms. The lower ones are similar in configuration, details are different. Good work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Tate Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 Thanks Roger! I just wish mine looked as good as yours!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 On 3/11/2018 at 8:37 AM, Frank Tate said: top spindle is bent!!! So now I am on the hunt for a new spindle. I have made some for supper Belltech axles. just made of 4140 steel it is some nice steel to work with.--kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Tate Posted March 30, 2018 Author Share Posted March 30, 2018 Well after much scraping and wire brushing and 1 can of gunk engine cleaner and the pressure washer, here we are. Now for disassembly and rust removal. This is slow going! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Tate Posted April 19, 2018 Author Share Posted April 19, 2018 Well, things are going slowly. I finally got the derusting tank set up and have started on the lower A arm from the passenger side. While it is cooking, I am going to throw some smaller parts into another tank with the Evapo Rust and see how long that takes. You can see what I am starting with above and here is where I stand now. The carbon steel rods really make the solution a lot cleaner. Much less orange sludge/crud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Dean Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 Hi Frank, ... On this derusting tank setup is the process covered elsewhere? Thanks, Ric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Tate Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 Hi Ric, I haven't covered it in my posts, but it is pretty well covered on youtube. It is very simple... you fill the tank with water and add washing soda....NOT baking soda. I got mine from either the Ace hardware or the Giant grocery store. Rig up some steel for your anode. I initially used some scrap 1/4" plate but that made a rusty scum in the tank so I switched to 1/2" carbon steel welding rods. Hook up a battery charger with the + to the anode(s) and the negative to the cathode (rusty part) that is suspended in some way. Turn on the charger so that you have about 4 to 6 amps draw and let it cook. Because my A arm was so rusty, I have cooked it about 12 hours so far. I will check later today and post results. Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Tate Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 So, here it is cooking And here it is done with the bath. And here it is after some quality time with the blast cabinet and a wire brush. I took one upper A arm inner shaft and blasted one end and wire brushed the other. It took about the same time. I am not sure which is better. I have the other inner arm in EvapoRust. I will post that when I pull it out tomorrow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted April 23, 2018 Share Posted April 23, 2018 I have the impression that blasting can remove the rust from the pores; with the wire brush it's more difficult. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Tate Posted April 23, 2018 Author Share Posted April 23, 2018 I think you are correct Roger. The right side was wire brushed and the left was blasted. Here is the EvapoRust treated part after sitting overnight. It certainly was easier to do a quick rinse and scrub with a scotchbrite! I am not sure what that discoloration is on the right side, but will see if it will come off with the wire brush. Looks ready to paint or powder coat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1956 Ford Thunderbird Posted April 27, 2018 Share Posted April 27, 2018 May I ask where you purchased your engine cradle (stand)? Brand name, web site, etc. Thanks, I am looking for a low profile engine cradle for my 1956 Ford Thunderbird 312 engine. The closest I have come is on Summit Racing web site. The problem is I would have to modify the one they recommend. I'd rather not do that if there is one I can purchase elsewhere that would fit the 312 engine. Any help you can give will be very much appreciated. Larry Phillips Evans, Georgia 30809 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Tate Posted April 29, 2018 Author Share Posted April 29, 2018 Hey Larry, Sorry, was visiting relatives up in Canada and didn't see this until today! Just responded to your post in your thread. Craigslist ad from a guy in my neighborhood, no less! Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1956 Ford Thunderbird Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 Frank, thanks for your post.. I hope I can be as lucky. Can you send me a good picture of your stand to my email address? At Phillips.larryc@gmail.com Thanks for your help, very much appreciated. In the meantime I will try Craig"s list. Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Tate Posted April 30, 2018 Author Share Posted April 30, 2018 No problem Larry. PM sent! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Tate Posted May 10, 2018 Author Share Posted May 10, 2018 Well, after several fun filled days cleaning front suspension components, here is where I am: Right and Left A arms cleaned and blasted. Spindles cleaned and blasted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Tate Posted May 10, 2018 Author Share Posted May 10, 2018 And the backing plates cleaned and blasted. So now I get to pick which backing plates to use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Tate Posted May 10, 2018 Author Share Posted May 10, 2018 And deciding I needed room in the shop, I thought what better place to keep the engine, than in the frame! So, after 3 or 4 careful hours of manuvering, I managed to get it in the frame without any injury! Now back to clean up and paint. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luv2Wrench Posted May 26, 2018 Share Posted May 26, 2018 Engine storage in the frame is a great idea. I reordered my restoration process for very same reason... need more room and the frame is the perfect place for the engine!! Looks like you're making great progress, can't wait to see the rest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Tate Posted May 27, 2018 Author Share Posted May 27, 2018 Dropped the Transmission off for a rebuild with a local guy because it is the Fordomatic....air cooled! I figured that even though I had the manual, it was better to have someone with experience do it rather than me learning how now at the relatively young age of 60. Hahahahaha! ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Tate Posted July 12, 2018 Author Share Posted July 12, 2018 I always forget to take the before pics! But here is where I stand with the engine in and the transmission rebuilt and waiting for one lousy bolt to attach to the flywheel. Now on to the rear end....after a little wire brushing.... Then, some rust converter.... Now, off to buy another can of Rust Converter and I can paint it tomorrow. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Tate Posted July 21, 2018 Author Share Posted July 21, 2018 Well, finally able to make some progress. Differential painted and installed and now on 2 wheels. Front suspension is next. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Tate Posted August 5, 2018 Author Share Posted August 5, 2018 Some slight progress. Front suspension on with springs, shocks and brakes. I need to take the front drums to a shop to be turned, then I will re-pack the bearings, put new seals on, clean and paint then install. I cleaned up the front sway bar and brackets, identified the proper fasteners and painted the bar and brackets. So while they are drying, I thought I would make a quick entry here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARY F Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 Coming along nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Tate Posted September 8, 2018 Author Share Posted September 8, 2018 I am re-posting this in this forum. Things have been going slow on the Tbird. Mostly identifying missing parts and sourcing missing parts. I thought I had it pretty well in hand and then, while waiting for a replacement sector shaft and worm gear for the steering box rebuild, I tried to install the PS pump. I have a late 50's Ford PS pump that I picked up and rebuilt in anticipation of installing it on my 55. According to everything I have read, the only issue would be the mounting brackets as all the Eaton pumps were generally the same. I got a rebuild kit and have rebuilt it. Bought the necessary Tbird brackets and went to install it. It seems that my pumps' casting interferes with the cast mounting bracket on the engine. When I looked up a replacement pump on ebay, I see one that looks like mine with all the mounting brackets and not clearance problem. Are there different Tbird Yblock brackets??? This is the ebay pic Here is my pump Here is the interference issue As I hope you can see, the casting ear (for lack of a better term) to the left of the top bolt is hitting the bracket mounted to the engine block. The black front mounting plate bracket is a brand new part and I hope it is made to the correct dimensions, but looking at the ebay pic, that pump has an ear also, but all the brackets fit!!! And when I mount just my bracket to the engine mount, everything lines up, but I can't mount the pump. I don't want to grind the ear off, but I am running out of ideas here. Can anyone provide a suggestion??? Many thanks! Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957Birdman Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 Hi Frank, I have some bad news for you. The late 50's Ford power steering pump is configured differently. That is the reason the "ear" is interfering with installing the pump. To make it work you will have to do a fair amount of grinding. Personally I would get the correct pump to ensure everything works together properly. All the T-Bird parts suppliers have them and they do show up often on Ebay. One other thing, the bracket that attaches to the engine with the large bolt should be painted gloss black, not engine color. I hope all goes well with getting it straightened out. You are doing a nice job with the restoration. Lew Bachman 1957 T-Bird Colonial White Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Tate Posted September 9, 2018 Author Share Posted September 9, 2018 Thanks Lew. Not what I wanted to hear, obviously...but I do have a nice PS pump for sale! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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