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Hard brake issue, 89 vin 231


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While driving down the road at 65 mph or so, noticed hard brake when exiting.  Meaning long time to slow down.  Was ready to drag my foot.  Stayed that way also til home.  Brake fluid level is okay.  Brake pedal is hard, seems a little lower than usual, and pumping 20 times or so has no change at all.

New accumulator is maybe 10 years old.

Also noticed red manual has a symptom chart on page 5-11 that the blue manual does not have at all.  I'm thinking accumulator or pressue switch (like I know what that is).  Also the abs and brake light are on all the time.

Thanks for your help and how I might fix this.

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1 hour ago, wild bill said:

While driving down the road at 65 mph or so, noticed hard brake when exiting.  Meaning long time to slow down.  Was ready to drag my foot.  Stayed that way also til home.  Brake fluid level is okay.  Brake pedal is hard, seems a little lower than usual, and pumping 20 times or so has no change at all.

New accumulator is maybe 10 years old.

Also noticed red manual has a symptom chart on page 5-11 that the blue manual does not have at all.  I'm thinking accumulator or pressue switch (like I know what that is).  Also the abs and brake light are on all the time.

Thanks for your help and how I might fix this.

accumulator might be out again after 10 years...check relays at front right fender well also

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13 hours ago, wild bill said:

While driving down the road at 65 mph or so, noticed hard brake when exiting.  Meaning long time to slow down.  Was ready to drag my foot.  Stayed that way also til home.  Brake fluid level is okay.  Brake pedal is hard, seems a little lower than usual, and pumping 20 times or so has no change at all.

New accumulator is maybe 10 years old.

Also noticed red manual has a symptom chart on page 5-11 that the blue manual does not have at all.  I'm thinking accumulator or pressue switch (like I know what that is).  Also the abs and brake light are on all the time.

Thanks for your help and how I might fix this.

 

In that "relay box" on the right (passenger side) inner fender panel, there are fuses that protect the circuit of each relay. Don't just look at the fuse, pull it out so you can see the 2 'legs' of each fuse. An often failure here is that the fuse and it's connector become overheated and burns away. This causes the PUMP not to function and the result is what you describe. If this is what you find, you need to provide a new circuit to power up that relay.  Let us know what you find.

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7 hours ago, wild bill said:

How do i fix this melt down?

 

OK!  You see those 2 heavy 'RED' wires going to the fuse holder... You need to REPLACE the fuse holder with an EXTERNAL fuse holder circuit which you can purchase at an auto parts store like NAPA. Be sure it can carry a 30 amp circuit.

TO REPAIR; You need to disconnect the battery first. Then splice that aftermarket fuse holder with leads to the existing 2 red wires.

Be sure to solder the connections and use 'heat-shrink tubing' insulation over the soldered connections.  You will now have a new circuit and everything will work fine.

I suspect that you still have the original ACCUMULATOR on the ABS assembly. That needs to be replaced also. A bad accumulator is what eventually causes this burned out fuse circuit due to running the hydraulic brake fluid pump nearly continuously while driving the car. This also burns out the pump eventually.

 

The other "Fix" is to replace the entire assembly with a standard vacuum booster / master cylinder setup. You can find that here... See our ABS replacement article

There may be those who oppose this retrofit, but eventually all TCs will need ABS brake repair and there will be no reliable replacement parts available.

I wrote the article after converting my '89 TC back in 2011. My brakes have worked like normal brakes without a single problem since then.

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On ‎3‎/‎15‎/‎2018 at 8:13 AM, wild bill said:

Thanks so much.  I'll do external fuse holder circuit next week. Accumilator was replaced in Reno national way back when. 

Ah yes, back in the day-back when we were *allowed* to work on TC's at the meets.  I believe my Brother was with me in Reno and we did lots wheel bearing repacks, fuel lines, brake bleeds etc.  Someone starts talking about 'liability' and next I know, no more servicing is allowed.  Kinda changed the whole character of the meets from my perspective. Not sure if I've been to a meet since, maybe one.

 

You had 16V red/ginger a while back didn't you Bill?

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That looks scary! Need to check mine & make sure mine isn't on the verge. Always stops fine but sometimes my ABS & Brake light will pop on for a minute or so & then turn back off. Hopefully I don't need one of those $300 accumulators!

 

Side question: does the swap use the same parts from the LeBaron? I was thinking about selling my '88 Convertible but I might just strip some stuff & scrap it if there's enough parts that I need. The 'Baron's brakes always worked good. As long as I can keep the TC's rear disc brakes, I might consider a swap..

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On 3/17/2018 at 7:36 AM, TwinCamFan said:

Ah yes, back in the day-back when we were *allowed* to work on TC's at the meets.  I believe my Brother was with me in Reno and we did lots wheel bearing repacks, fuel lines, brake bleeds etc.  Someone starts talking about 'liability' and next I know, no more servicing is allowed.  Kinda changed the whole character of the meets from my perspective. Not sure if I've been to a meet since, maybe one.

 

You had 16V red/ginger a while back didn't you Bill?

No, no 16v, or red.

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