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Radiator Fan does not work


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After finally changing my worn out valve stem seals, changing timing belt, belt tensioner, radiator, spark plugs, wires, radiator cap ( I hope its the correct one...the original one was falling apart) all gaskets while open, I am having issues;

the radiator fan does not come on - I changed the temperature sending unit, no difference..I drove it once 6 miles, and it started to go up almost all the way, pulled over, let it cool down.

drove another 5 miles today and the temp fluctuated between half/ and then again almost up all the way; I hope I did not kill it ...

the radiator itself spins when directly connected to the battery ( but its not a fast spin...) when looking for the fan relay, the handbook refers to the small black cube relay thats in pair with the act clutch relay. when looking for the radiator fan relay on rockauto or even on autozone, it always shows this guy, which is not the correct one: ( see rockauto screenshot) 

 

at this point, I think it could be the relay, the fan motor or whatever you guys come up with...I need to fix this!!!!

 

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Edited by shelbyone
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Look up the 90 Daytona on Rock Auto and it will show both this relay and the black cube relay, just make sure the blade locations match yours and the values on the diagram on the part if you can still read yours. 

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16 minutes ago, ghostymosty said:

Look up the 90 Daytona on Rock Auto and it will show both this relay and the black cube relay, just make sure the blade locations match yours and the values on the diagram on the part if you can still read yours. 

thanks ghostymosty!  that helps! 

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This is supposed to fit your 90-91  3.0L TC   I wonder why you think that you need the fan motor>  You wrote that it worked when you jumped it.

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14 minutes ago, Hemi Dude said:

This is supposed to fit your 90-91  3.0L TC   I wonder why you think that you need the fan motor>  You wrote that it worked when you jumped it.

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Related Parts    
 

 

    CHRYSLER    1990    TC MASERATI    3.0L 181cid V6    Cooling System    Radiator Fan Motor
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Hemi!

 

thanks for your recommendation.. I just attempted another repair...replaced the fan relay, replaced the temperature sensor ( not the small engine temp) checked wires for any ground issues...actually, the connecting cables to the temp sensor were very corroded at 2 inches where they were soldered on. ( maybe thats also why I got a error 22 - coolant voltage low) 

I checked the fan again and it runs!...I dont think that the gauge is faulty...temp fluctuates constantly.

also..coolant is dripping out of this rubber pipe a lot near the power steering pump..... ( see pic) 

IMG_6914.jpg

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1 minute ago, 4 Peaks said:

If that is the drip hose for the condensation from the heater core and A/C, and there is coolant dripping from it, most likely the heater core is leaking.

F&^$%!!!!!!!!! I knew it....that means, entire dashboard has to come out....when heat is on, it smells like coolant ...( bought the cooler on rockauto a year ago, just in case...) well, I guess, I got this unwanted case now....that has to wait now...

I need the fan to run first....

this car is driving me insane

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Check for breaks in the wires, or a melted section, in the car side of the pigtail up and around the engine bay up to the relay. I assume the wires after the connector on the fan side are good if that is where you hooked battery power to test the fan motor itself. I am also assuming the fan doesn't run when you turn the a/c on.

Edited by ghostymosty (see edit history)
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You need to run a 12volt source to a switch in the car (add on) and then to the fan. Just turn the fan on with the switch when you run the car and you can check whether any of your engine work is the culprit. That is the 'old school' fix for electric fan issues when the fan is still good. People with bad memories for hitting the switch would run the 12volt from an 'ignition on' source but I wouldn't recommend that unless the source only works a relay that lets the 12 volts in from somewhere else (sounds like the factory setup) so you don't force too much current through the computer.

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Do you have an air bubble in the engine coolant passages? The temp sensor works on liquid temperature but I don't think it will register any temp from air around it.

 

The above statement is good to consider.   However, cutting into the factory wiring in order to operate the cooling fan MANUALLY, is not a good idea.

I would think, that after you had done any repair that required the draining of the coolant, that you would run the engine in-place until you verified that the thermostat had opened and that the coolant was circulating properly and the level in the radiator was correct.

Another thought!!!

The temperature sending unit (the one that operates the dashboard gauge ONLY) If you have replaced it with an aftermarket unit, REINSTALL the original sending unit OR if you have discarded that sending unit, buy a NEW one from a Chrysler dealer.  You cannot depend on aftermarket parts to be compatible with your car. Temperature sending units are made for different types of instrument gauge electrical specifications. There is a possibility that your replacement sending unit is incorrect.

Edited by Hemi Dude (see edit history)
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Had the same problem on my 89 TC, (fan motor not operating), I accidentally discovered the cause of the problem.  After changing the fan relay and running engine to above normal temp, fan still did not operate.  As I was leaning over with my hands on top of the radiator mounting panel, I saw small electrical arcing between the mating surfaces of the fan shroud and the mounting panel and at the same time the radiator fan came on.  I knew immediately that a grounding problem was the cause of the fan motor not running.  I placed a small washer between the two mating surfaces where the arcing occurred to get a better ground for the motor and the fan motor has worked ever since.  That may not be the cause of your problem but that is a possibility.

Edited by no1parfive (see edit history)
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  • 4 months later...

Another reason the radiator fan won't turn. On my 90 3.0 liter the radiator fan fits into a metal pin that goes thru the fan motor shaft and then a hard to remove clip, for a good reason i guess, holds the fan on the pin and shaft. I had the pin come out of the shaft, but it was still laying on the frame. Now i need help. Radiator fan motor works, tested with 12 volt source. (speaker wires to car battery). No power to radiator fan plug, looks like. I've scoured manual, fan relay looks ok, not sure witch one it is tho. Where to from here? Would like to drive without a dedicated switch for the fan.

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On 3/7/2018 at 12:07 PM, TCGuy90 said:

Did temperture gauges tend to fail on these? because the one in my TC isnt functioning and my chilton book does not show the location..any possibilities?

 

No, the gauge does NOT tend to fail.

Since you have a 3.0L, it is likely that your thermostat has broken. When that happens, it becomes fully often and the engine will not get up to operating temperature unless you let it stand still and run for a long while. Be sure to purchase a 'STANT' brand195 degree thermostat.

By the way, if you find the thermostat housing, you will see the temperature gauge sending unit right below and toward the front of the engine.

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8 hours ago, wild bill said:

Another reason the radiator fan won't turn. On my 90 3.0 liter the radiator fan fits into a metal pin that goes thru the fan motor shaft and then a hard to remove clip, for a good reason i guess, holds the fan on the pin and shaft. I had the pin come out of the shaft, but it was still laying on the frame. Now i need help. Radiator fan motor works, tested with 12 volt source. (speaker wires to car battery). No power to radiator fan plug, looks like. I've scoured manual, fan relay looks ok, not sure witch one it is tho. Where to from here? Would like to drive without a dedicated switch for the fan.

If you got yourself the FACTORY TC Service Manual, you would be able to find what you are looking for. The 90-91 manual is the red covered one, likely available on eBay.

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Some of the manuals are actually missing pages, I don't have my red manual anymore so can't be so helpful as to give you a page number. Also, some 90-91 cars came with the rectangular silver relay and some with the nearly square black relay, just depends on the wire harness supplier at the time. 

Edited by ghostymosty (see edit history)
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Don't think my blue or red manuals are missing pages.  In red 90, 91 manual electric fan motor test procedure is on page 7-24 Cooling System.  The radiator fan relay wiring diagram is on page 8W-63 (relay is middle of right side of page).  FYI the on board check engine light diagnostic test gave me a 3-55.  it should be 35-55. tested it 3 times always 3, long pause, 5, short pause, 5. 

Step 5 of procedure to test says with ignition switch in on position, test for battery voltage at single pin connector at the fan relay.  WHAT DOES THIS MEAN?  (caps just for attention), this is also needed for steps 6a and 6b.  Does it mean this next sentence? Tested wires going in the relay no voltage at metal tip of wires (while all wires on the relay).  If I could reach them, not sure on all the wires.  Took cover off relay, 2 female ports had 12 volts.  Pulled off 60 way connector.  Went to step 7, with ignition in run, tested blue wire C27, it had 12 volts, says replace relay.  So I think I need new relay,  Don't see at rock auto for 89, or 90 TC.  Don't see a Daytona listed at all.

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At RockAuto look under the Dodge, 1989, Daytona, 2.2L, Electrical switch and relay, Radiator fan relay

This listing shows both the possible radiator fan relays. Looking under the 1990 Daytona or TC 3.0L only shows one of these. 

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On 8/3/2018 at 5:14 PM, wild bill said:

Put on new rock auto square black radiator fan relay, still fan not coming on. I will check wiring again. Hard to see it all.

Are you sure that you didn't replace the A/C Clutch Relay instead of the Radiator Fan Relay? Message me if you want my phone # for more help.

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Good question, going by wire colors for radiator fan relay, i got the right one. I'll message tommorow, thanks.

Jacked up front end and checked light green wire from fan pigtail to relay as best i could. Looked fine. Car still getting too hot.

Edited by wild bill (see edit history)
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