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38 Century, Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement I...


philipj

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Do NOT. use locktite.   The pix does not show the back seal.   Look at your service manual. The bearing will ‘tap’ in easily.  Then with the bearing in place (stopped by the ‘step’ in the axel,) you gently tap the seal in place.  Seals today have a coating that ‘seal’s’ the exterior of the seal to the housing.   The pix you have is a task from 1938 when permated was ‘the’ sealing product.   Not necessary that way today.   The way you do it today it to use the double seal method which creats the cavity that you ‘fill’ with grease (70 % full).    If younare not sure of method,  ring our chimes.  There are many of us who “have been there - done that” to help you do it easier..   I would even get a newer service manual to see how the factory transitioned to more modern techniques to repair and keep your car on thr road.  BTW, I have SM’s,  1937, 1938, 198, and 1954.  I find it interesting how the same problem is written up slightly different because it was done by a newer guy over the years.  Older service manuals describe a repair based on equipment and techniques of the day.  Then look at the same repair 10 years later and see how they did it then.  Watching technology progress thru the years via service manuals.

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I am happy to report that my vehicle sits on all four wheels and it is pretty smooth! My one concern about the rear end is the clearance between the axle shafts and the large rectangular spacer. Thanks to Jim for pointing out the correct maximum clearance of.008, the problem being is that I have 0.14

How much damage can you do here by having almost twice the required clearance?

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