kingrudy Posted January 11, 2019 Author Share Posted January 11, 2019 Received this book today and was totally thrilled. I have been looking for this book for the last six months and wanted to thank 2CARB40 for noticing this on ebay at a very reasonable price and giving me a call. the book is in great shape (any shadows you see on the pic are due to my lousy photography). This book is not reproduced, or I would have bought that by now. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrudy Posted January 14, 2019 Author Share Posted January 14, 2019 (edited) Does anyone have any information about the George Borg Clock? I have restored the clock that I have cosmetically and I'm working on the wiring harness, but it would be nice if it worked. I did read an article about these clocks and the premise sounds simple. The voltage going to the clock separates the contacts, which winds the clock and as the clock runs the contacts move closer until closed and the cycle repeats itself. The second photo shows the contact point and the inner workings of the clock (looks awful clean), from dry California where this car spent it's whole life. The third picture if from the clock I bought on ebay just for the wiring harness. Seems like some moisture was present at some time or another. Edited January 14, 2019 by kingrudy Additional info (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 It is not clean. The arrows point to dust. It needs a clean and oil. The old oil will have dried up and the old dry oil and grinding dust need to be removed from the pivot holes before it is oiled. DO NOT spray a penetrating oil all over it - that will lead to it being gummed up in a few months. Oiling is done with a fine needle, like a hyperdermic needle. I use the eye of a needle to carry a tiny drop of oil to each pivot. Basically, it needs disassembly, cleaning, repairs if necessary, reassembly and oiling. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1940Super Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 https://www.rubbertherightway.com/1940-buick-restoration-parts-electric-60085-prd1.htm 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrudy Posted March 25, 2019 Author Share Posted March 25, 2019 If anyone has any pics of the antenna on the roof (inside and outside), I sure would appreciate it. If you have a pic without the headliner, that would really help. I think that I have all the pics, but want to be certain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1940Super Posted March 28, 2019 Share Posted March 28, 2019 On 3/25/2019 at 11:50 AM, kingrudy said: If anyone has any pics of the antenna on the roof (inside and outside), I sure would appreciate it. If you have a pic without the headliner, that would really help. I think that I have all the pics, but want to be certain. I could take some but my headliner is still there. I will be removing the antenna to replace the rubber pads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrudy Posted March 28, 2019 Author Share Posted March 28, 2019 I would appreciate any pics you could supply. When you remove the directional knob and the escutcheon, please take a pic of the two screws that secure the escutcheon and then take a pic of the shaft. Thanks for the help. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrudy Posted March 28, 2019 Author Share Posted March 28, 2019 (edited) Car went to the mechanic this morning to have all fluids drained, engine pressure checked and check for anything unusual that I may have missed. Maybe I'm being a little over cautious, but I feel like the end is in sight. Restoration shop butchered the glass install on the front and rear glass, so that is the next stop. Edited March 28, 2019 by kingrudy Crop photo (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1940Super Posted April 1, 2019 Share Posted April 1, 2019 On 3/29/2019 at 1:31 AM, kingrudy said: I would appreciate any pics you could supply. When you remove the directional knob and the escutcheon, please take a pic of the two screws that secure the escutcheon and then take a pic of the shaft. Thanks for the help. Mike I did start to remove it months ago but only got as far as this. Not sure where I put the parts either. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrudy Posted April 1, 2019 Author Share Posted April 1, 2019 Thank you very much for the reply, this will help with the orientation of the escutcheon and I will try using the same type of screws that are used on the window garnish. Best of luck with your car and thanks for the pics. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreen Posted July 27, 2019 Share Posted July 27, 2019 Are we driving this beauty? Haven't heard from you lately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrudy Posted July 27, 2019 Author Share Posted July 27, 2019 Good to hear from you Ken. I hit a road block with the front and rear windshields which were installed so poorly, you would not want to drive it in a light mist. I took it to a glass shop June 1st and will pick it up on Monday. Still work to be done, but the end is in sight. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrudy Posted August 1, 2019 Author Share Posted August 1, 2019 Spoke to 2carb after visiting the glass shop. The tech was stumped when the metal plate on the interior of the division strip would not line up to allow the installation of the rear view mirror. He also gave me insight on how to install the stainless steel strip on the division bar. Thanks to 2carb my car will be coming home soon and the front and rear windows look great. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 2, 2019 Share Posted August 2, 2019 Thanks for the kind words of recognition. It's nice to hear your car is getting closer to enjoying driving it again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrudy Posted August 8, 2019 Author Share Posted August 8, 2019 Picked up the car today and the windows look great. No gaps or wrinkles, I would now drive this car in the rain, if I had the wipers working. Next window regulator regulator repair and install stainless on the stream board. Might do those gravel deflectors too. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrudy Posted August 11, 2019 Author Share Posted August 11, 2019 (edited) Just got the car back from the glass shop and installed the gravel deflectors today. I was surprised how much they stiffened up the rear fenders. These parts are getting hard to find because if they were on a car for a number of years they took quite a beating. The first picture is the 5/16 bolt to the upper section of the body. The second picture is a black 1/4" bolt as it would have originally been installed . The third picture is the tall one on the drivers side that protects the fuel filler. The fourth pic is the passengers side. Last pic shows the gravel deflector in the Master Parts Catalog, part 8.214 deflector. Edited August 11, 2019 by kingrudy Better illustration (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrudy Posted August 17, 2019 Author Share Posted August 17, 2019 After much work trying to get my drivers door regulator to work right, I finally through in the towel. I purchased a right side regulator on ebay listed as a 1940 window regulator 56 Super or 76 Roadmaster coupe convertible. Markings on the regulator are stamped GM-40 and the seller stated that this was NOS part #4113941, so I got out my Master Parts Catalog found the part number and cross referenced this to the body style. According to the book this part number is for a 1940 56C or 76C, or a 1941 56C or 76C. I was not deterred. I measured my regulator on six different points and they are an exact match. The fan looks a little different, but the span across the teeth is exact and the ends of my old regulator are a little wider than the new one, but all the important measurements are right on. I installed the new one today and it works great. Before you start this process remove the lower stop/ brace from the door. (A) 1. Removed the old regulator and put a 2'x4" cut to fit so the window would not drop down. Manual says remove the glass, but it wasn't necessary. (B) 2. Removed upper and lower glide channels. 3. Installed the new regulator with just the four large screws to hold regulator in place. 4. Slid glide channel into roller and secured this with two large screws. 5. Slid lower channel into bottom rollers and attached channel to bottom of window with four #6 machine screws. 6, Finally re install the lower brace/ stop and set to proper height of window, so your window will not travel too low. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrudy Posted August 18, 2019 Author Share Posted August 18, 2019 Additional information that may be useful to someone else.... The difference between the two regulators is due to the manufacturers. In 1940 Ternstedt Manufacturing which was a subsidiary of Fisher Body made the original regulator. General Motors several years later bought out Ternstedt and folded this into GM. The chart that I added below shows the regulator as GM 40 and cross references it to the original part number. I believe that is why the NOS part looks a little different, but all of the relevant measurements are identical to the original. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreen Posted June 4, 2020 Share Posted June 4, 2020 On 7/17/2018 at 9:23 PM, kingrudy said: Today I got the dash completed (sort of) and got the two most important things, the lights and the ignition switch. The first illustration shows the key position (start) to the lock and remove the cylinder. On the second picture (taken while lying on my back under the ignition switch) notice the blue circle.The screw is located at about the 4:30 position when you are facing the dash. This screw holds the switch in place, it also makes sure that when you put the key and the face plate together, that the key will correspond to the positions in the first illustration. I took some extra time on this to make sure that the switch turned freely (if it doesn't, the car won't start). Place the plastic piece on next and secure this with the small screw on the bottom is the switch. The light switch is held in place by a male screw on the outside of the face plate and an Allen screw that secures the plastic pull to the shaft of the light switch. I know that when this is complete that I will have to go back and replace the plastic pieces, but that is not my priority. Right now I am trying to knock down the large projects and I'll do a punch list at the end. The dash is complete for the most part, I still have to put the windshield wiper switch in, no big deal. I went to pick up all of the material for sealing the floor, will start on this in the morning. I did a search and found that you have encountered a condition that I am now attempting to address. Your reprint above is very useful, but I can't get the ignition key to turn from the 40 degrees to the 70 degrees. I've got a heavy duty paperclip stuck in the hole and don't feel anything moving or depressing inside the lock. I insert the paperclip with the ignition in the off, locked position then rotate clockwise. I've also tried to feel any sort of detent with the paperclip along the arc of travel and feel nothing. I'm hearing dad's voice over my shoulder "don't force it, think!". Any ideas of what I'm doing incorrectly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted June 4, 2020 Share Posted June 4, 2020 1 hour ago, kgreen said: I insert the paperclip with the ignition in the off, locked position then rotate clockwise. Try starting with the ignition in the OFF- UNLOCKED position, and key in place. Then insert a regular paper clip into the hole and then turn towards the 70* mark 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrudy Posted June 5, 2020 Author Share Posted June 5, 2020 Hello Ken, I recall doing this and it went pretty smooth, but I should have taken a photo when the chrome locking piece was removed. As I recall the hole is small and the paper clip must insert in this hole in order to be able to get to the 70 degree position. Sorry that is all I have, the instructions out of the manual are correct. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted June 5, 2020 Share Posted June 5, 2020 Ken, did you get it out yet? I don't think I can be much help because, like Mike, all I remember is that I followed the procedure in the manual and the switch turned the extra 30 degrees and popped out. Could it be that the "heavy-duty" paper clip is actually too big (thick) to trip whatever kind of button there is under the part of the switch that turns? I'm just guessing here. Like Mike, I didn't take any pics of what it looked like under there once the switch was removed, nor do I remember. Good luck. Neil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrudy Posted June 7, 2020 Author Share Posted June 7, 2020 (edited) I have been reading the Buick manual (p. 223) regarding the troubleshooting of the gas gauge. The book refers to a tool (HMO-204) in the service section. It doesn't seem necessary, but would be easier than dropping the gas tank. Does anyone have experience in using this? Edited June 7, 2020 by kingrudy (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted June 8, 2020 Share Posted June 8, 2020 I looked in the '41 shop manual and I see the same reference to "testing tool HMO-204." I don't know what it is, but it sounds like it's a device that mimics the function of the sending unit on the tank so that you can test the gauge dash unit without dropping the tank. I would be very surprised if any of these tools are still in existence. Did you see the excellent article by Pete Phillips in the May issue of the Buick Bugle on how to trouble shoot and repair a gauge when it always reads empty? Which problem do you have? Does it always read full or always read empty? There are some pretty easy things you can do to isolate the problem depending on which symptom you have. Dropping the tank is actually not very difficult. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreen Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 On 6/5/2020 at 7:23 PM, neil morse said: Ken, did you get it out yet? I don't think I can be much help because, like Mike, all I remember is that I followed the procedure in the manual and the switch turned the extra 30 degrees and popped out. Could it be that the "heavy-duty" paper clip is actually too big (thick) to trip whatever kind of button there is under the part of the switch that turns? I'm just guessing here. Like Mike, I didn't take any pics of what it looked like under there once the switch was removed, nor do I remember. Good luck. Neil No luck pulling the tumbler yet. Haven't broken anything yet either so I still have all my options. (Sorry for the hijack Mike!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrudy Posted June 9, 2020 Author Share Posted June 9, 2020 Tracked down the problem with the fuel gauge, wires were reversed at the gauge. Love it when the problems are easy to fix. Thanks for the input. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 (edited) 6 hours ago, kingrudy said: Tracked down the problem with the fuel gauge, wires were reversed at the gauge. Love it when the problems are easy to fix. Thanks for the input. LOL! I'll add you to the long list of those who got their fuel gauge to work by doing something simple and easy. Wish I were so lucky... Edited June 9, 2020 by Matt Harwood (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 5 hours ago, kingrudy said: Tracked down the problem with the fuel gauge, wires were reversed at the gauge. Love it when the problems are easy to fix. Thanks for the input. 15 years later (1955) they made the connection idiot-proof with different plug in terminals and a red warning tag about touching wires (cannot remember the warning, but I am guessing if you touched the positive to the grounded sending unit, it would be fried). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrudy Posted June 10, 2020 Author Share Posted June 10, 2020 On 6/9/2020 at 11:17 AM, Matt Harwood said: LOL! I'll add you to the long list of those who got their fuel gauge to work by doing something simple and easy. Wish I were so lucky... Thanks Matt, I'm sitting there thinking of the problem when I think, why not look at the manual? Best investment I ever made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrudy Posted August 25, 2020 Author Share Posted August 25, 2020 Just got the car back from the auto upholstery shop. Got the B pillars fixed and the headliner plus two sun visors. Thanks to Boyer's Restoration for the spears on the inside window garnish and the knobs that make it possible to operate the sliding rear windows. Not quite satisfied with the way the sun visors hang, but maybe that is the way they are supposed to be. Sure would appreciate a couple pics of the sun visors on the 40, or 41 Buick. I will take a couple pics of the visors tomorrow. Making progress, but it has been a long journey. Thanks to all 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Mereness Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 14 hours ago, kingrudy said: Not quite satisfied with the way the sun visors hang, but maybe that is the way they are supposed to be. Nope, sunvisers sit next-to/flush-with the headliner just like your "gut" told you - takes some fiddling and perhaps upholster made some sort of assembly error. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrudy Posted August 25, 2020 Author Share Posted August 25, 2020 Thanks John, I played with it some more and got a better result. I have to get the end caps, but I think that I'm on the right track. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted August 26, 2020 Share Posted August 26, 2020 (edited) Your car is looking great, Mike! This is what my visors look like. I had to fiddle with the screw that sets the tension in the shaft to get it adjusted so the visors can be pushed all the way up and will stay in place, but can still be pulled down when you need them. You can order the rubber end caps from Steele Rubber Products. Edited August 26, 2020 by neil morse (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrudy Posted August 26, 2020 Author Share Posted August 26, 2020 Thanks Neil, I tightened up the screw to increase the tension on the visors and they stay in place now. I ordered the caps from Chevs of the 40s. Steele probably makes them, but I have found Chevs to be very reasonable. I have to do something about that '41 steering wheel center piece, but it hasn't bothered me enough yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted August 26, 2020 Share Posted August 26, 2020 I think the horn button just rotates. It might be tight, but maybe stick a suction cup on it and see if it'll turn. Mine turns with just my fingers and I constantly have to straighten it (although my wheel is crooked anyway). Yours is hopefully nice and tight and hopefully not glued in place or anything like that. You should be able to rotate it straight pretty easily. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted August 26, 2020 Share Posted August 26, 2020 Matt, I think Mike is referring to the fact that he's got the wrong horn button ('41 as opposed to '40), not that it's crooked. Am I right, Mike? But I'm not surprised that what you noticed was the crooked part! 😄 Mine is a bit crooked, but very tight and difficult to turn. I seem to be able to live with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrudy Posted August 27, 2020 Author Share Posted August 27, 2020 You're right Neil. I bought the steering wheel, horn ring from Koch in California six years ago and they only had the '41. I am not sure if the horn ring is different from the '40, or just the button is different. I have another horn ring, so when I get around to it, I will sell the one that is on there now. I'm still missing the beige center piece for the button, or I would have changed it by now, need to speak to Skip about that. I need to change out the speedometer also. Thanks for the advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 I see this one on eBay. I assume it's a reproduction, and it may come from Skip, so you can probably get a better price from Skip directly. (This eBay seller is known for her high prices.) https://www.ebay.com/itm/1940-Buick-Ivory-Horn-Button-Plastic-Surround-NEW-/152955324052 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrudy Posted August 27, 2020 Author Share Posted August 27, 2020 12 minutes ago, neil morse said: I see this one on eBay. I assume it's a reproduction, and it may come from Skip, so you can probably get a better price from Skip directly. (This eBay seller is known for her high prices.) https://www.ebay.com/itm/1940-Buick-Ivory-Horn-Button-Plastic-Surround-NEW-/152955324052 I believe you are right Neil. I don't mean to disparage anyone in this post, but the facts are there. This seller is usually twice as high as what can be found from other sources. I will be speaking to Skip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 Yeah, I just remembered that I have a price list from Skip. It's from 2015, so it may be out of date, but he lists the "Horn Ring Plastic (cream)" for the '40 at $45.00. If you don't have a list from Skip, just send me a PM with your email address, and I will send you a copy of the one I have. Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now