kingrudy

My long build of a 1940 56S

Recommended Posts

The pictures below are when I purchased the car in 2009 a short distance from my house in Southern California. I had a new radiator put in the car, new brakes, tune up and generally checked all of the mechanical systems. Then I mad my first mistake, I took the car to a shop that was recommended by someone to have the car given a body on restoration. Six years later I got most of the car back and I am doing all of the work that I can (a lot of money has been spent on very poor work) to get this car on the road. I am starting from the front of the car and working my way to the rear, having to do several things over again that weren't done to what I consider acceptable standards. Some parts that I did not receive and still looking for are: rear gravel guard, wiper linkage, lever assembly for cowl vent, door lock mechanism (passengers side), upper trunk guide, steering column support and steering column floor plate. The third picture is how the car looks today. I will post additional pictures as work progresses. 

Mike  

DSCN0007.JPG

DSCN0009.JPG

At home with the in the background.JPG

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for posting.  Sorry to hear about your "restoration" experience.  I love the new color btw.  Also, welcome to NC

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello all

Yesterday I completed the installation of the door latching mechanism on the drivers side and it work beautifully. The steps taken were the removal of the mechanism and soaked it in paint thinner for two days. Removed this from the paint thinner and wire brushed all of the remaining junk out of the part and  let dry for a day. On day three I checked the latching mechanism to make sure it would slide easily and hit it with some lithium grease. I forgot to mention, this all began when I grabbed the outside door handle and it came off in my hand. The door handle should have been held in place by an 8-32 tapered screw (Restoration Specialties) the "restoration" shop had left this out when they put some of the car back together. This tapered screw can be difficult to install as it must go through the door handle and into a barrel fitting that needs to line up just right. This will require some patience if you don't do this all the time. Drivers side complete and the return spring work great as well as the latch, no more droopy door handle.

Today I removed the  passengers door latching mechanism and I figured this would be a breeze, because the drivers side gets more use. Right? Wrong, the "restoration" guy got a little creative on me and altered some of the parts (see attached photo). Can you spot the sheet metal screw holding the return spring and the missing piece the holds the rod that connects to the door handle operator? I did some head scratching to see if this could be rebuilt and decided the return spring would be a problem. So got on the interweb and started looking at scrap yards.  Found the part in Minnesota and he will ship this week, I'm a little nervous about what this part will look like, but I was assured that he would not ship junk.

The first picture below shows the mechanism in the car, far left middle of the pic note the sheet metal screw used to hold the return spring for the latch. Note the allen screw used with the chrome washer used to hold the rod in place that connects to the door handle (removed in second pic). I will post finished product when done. Note: I checked my parts book (good thing to have) and this part only listed as good for the 1940 Super and Roadmaster. The part numbers are different for '39 and '41, somewhat narrows the field. Found a '40 Super in North Carolina, but he would only sell the entire car and it did not look good.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by kingrudy
Insert Pics (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's a great looking car, glad you are sharing the pics with us.  What a bummer to hear about the "restoration" shop.  The few give the rest a bad reputation.  Looks like you moved, too.  I see a different garage with background scenary that doesn't look like CA at all.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, I purchased the car from a guy just outside the San Fernando Valley (close to LA), very dry climate. The car spent all of it's life in California. I retired last year and moved to Asheville, NC.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, that was quite a cross country move.  I now see the Ashville address.  There are some Buick guys somewhat nearby in Charlotte.  Have you joined the BCA and looked into the local BCA chapter?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I belong to the BCA and I was a member of the LA chapter. I haven't reached out to the Charlotte guys as of yet, but I will.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I purchased a lock mechanism from a salvage yard in Minnesota (see picture below). The one on top is the one I bought and the one below is from my car. The one that I received from Minnesota is missing the brass cylinder that the door handle inserts into. When it was removed from the car, with a torch he must have pulled the cylinder out also. The back is bent also, so even if I had the cylinder, it would no longer fit into the frame. Well, I thought I'd have some fun with rust, as you couldn't hut this piece any more than the abuse that it has already received. I put in a container of Evapo-rust for 12 hours and then pulled it out of the solution and rinsed it in hot water. I dried it with a heat gun and it came out looking brand new. I certainly was amazed. The lower part shows no rust, but is missing parts also. The brown color is the original paint, Aztec Brown. I could never warm up to that color. I would post a picture of the part without the rust, but I'm experiencing some technical difficulties. 

 

IMG_1864.JPG

IMG_1863.JPG

Edited by kingrudy
New pictures (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A nice car !

 

The drivers door get more use, so not unusual to more problems than other doors

 

The best source of pre war Buick parts is Dave Tacheny in Champlin, MN 55316. He specializes in 1936-1941 Buick parts. He is old school: no email. The best way to contact him is to call him between 4 and 7 pm Central at 763-427 3460.  http://forums.aaca.org/topic/206688-dave-tachney/

 

 

 

Edited by 1939_Buick (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I love the color too.  Do you know what color it is and if there's a formula available?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Jay,

When I decided to change the color from the green, I consulted my wife (good to get her buy in). She suggested that I pick a color that was available for the 1940 Buick. I have a page from Acme Proxlin that has color samples attached. The color that we picked is called Royal Maroon No. 5530-A. Under the color it states, 737 Deep Maroon...... Fill to 55- 1/2 and 836 Luminescence .....Fill to 56. The Buick color number for that year is 544. I have received many compliments on the color, both from pics and in person. I have to credit my wife. 

Mike 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm finishing a 25 Dodge Brothers roadster and want to do it in a nice deep burgundy.  I've looked at that color as an option but haven't seen it in person.  Some maroons start to look brown and I'm not looking for brown.  I'm thinking of having some mixed to do a spray out.  I also have a 31 Buick 8-96 that eventually may end up in a nice burgundy too.  So I will look into the Royal Maroon.  Thanks, Jay

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I may be wrong, but I thought that Dave Tachney was more of a '37-'38 guy than a '40-'41 guy.  Doug Seybold in Ohio is a good man to talk to about '40-'41 parts.  He doesn't do email, but his phone number is 440-835-1193.  My car is also Royal Maroon, and I get a lot of compliments as well.  Great choice!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Mike.  I have been to that site and picked out several colors that I would like to get spray outs done for or see an actual car in the colors.  Royal Maroon was one of them. The small chips don't really tell the story.

 

Just curious.  Did you have the car painted in a single stage or base coat/clearcoat.  I'm being told I should do BC/CC for durability and easier application.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Jay,

I had it done in Base coat/ Clear coat, but it was done six years ago and I'm in need of touch up in a few areas. I have the card and you are right, it is hard to tell what the color really looks like. I had a draw down done on a 8x11 sheet and then you can really see what you are getting. 

 

Mike

Edited by kingrudy
Additional info (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Neil,

I have been in touch with Doug for a number of years and he is a great guy with a wealth of information on our cars, but I have spent a lot on my cars restoration and his prices are a little bit high. So to keep my wife happy I'm trying to be a little careful on what I spend on parts.

Thanks, 

Mike 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I understand perfectly.  I just got some things from Doug.  They were sent promptly and were exactly what I wanted, but they were not cheap by any means.  If you're willing to take your time, you can undoubtedly find things for less money.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 I think that the colour Royal Maroon would be a good one. This is personal, as I decided to paint my '41 Roadmaster coupe in that colour early on in the restoration. I can honestly say, that I have had more compliments of it and the colour than any other car I've had. It is the same colour as Neil's and there are a few pictures of it on the site here, if you're interested.

 Keith

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Keith - I would love to see more pics.  I'm leaning towards this color and have been for a while.  As I mentioned earlier I'm just concerned that some maroons do take on a brownish hue and I don't want that.  I have seen the Auburn and Packard maroons and they seem on the brown side.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As long as we're talking about Royal Maroon, I should point out that I DID get this message left on my windshield one day when I parked in broad daylight.  :D:wacko:

 

IMG_20170715_123932_140.thumb.jpg.a007f0c0a0119c568fd563a3e74e0699.jpg

 

 

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I could say a whole lot about that but do not want to derail the thread (or have our moderator slap my hands).

 

Safe travels both you and your car.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Some success and a small setback today. I worked on the drivers side window and found that the shop had put the wrong size screw (bottom) and when you rolled the window up or down the gears would interfere with the winder. Happened to have the correct length screw and all was well. Next I thought that I would check the vent window and found that you could push the vent window open without using the regulator. After using some choice words for the owner of the shop that had the car for six years I found the regulator to be broken (not that way when it went into the shop). I removed the two screws, one shown on lower left and tried to remove the regulator, but it will not budge. I looked in the Body Manual for '39 and '40 Page 25 Operation 60 and the shaft bolt (gone) and the retaining screws and all that this operation mentions. Does anyone out there have any ideas?

 

Thanks, 

Mike  

                                                                                                                                                                                                                         5abd806060f13_BrolenVentRegulator.thumb.jpg.d5a093528fabe208a04aab817ede455a.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now