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Dynaflow removal suggestions


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A friend is removing the Dynaflow transmission from his 1948 Roadmaster Sedanette.

 

He has followed the manual instructions to the letter but the rear end will not separate from the gearbox to enable it to roll back.

 

For some reason the splined end of the propeller shaft will not slide out from the Universal joint assembly.

 

Any suggestions on what we may be missing? 

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Stuart, I suspect it is in a bind. Perhaps raise the rear end until the torque tube/ drive shaft is in alignment with the back of the transmission. I never try pulling the assembly back against the springs. Just unhook them, raise the rear end up with a floor jack and use it to roll things back on. I do remove the wheels to do this.

 

  Ben

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It looks tempting to just roll the rearend back on the wheels, but sometime it takes some massaging. I had to raise the assembly to an angle to make it easy to slide.

 

Putting it back in, we rolled it under on some bare wheels and it still took some finagling to get in.

 

Of course, you have to know technical terms like massaging and finagling or you don't get anywhere.

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Keep the torque tube level with the tail of the transmission.  This will help prevent a bind that Ben is describing.  I used a floor jack on wheels.  Put it under the middle of the axle and jacked up until level with the tail of the transmission.   One hard tug and the entire assembly rolled back. 

 

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Thanks for the replies and yes, I believe it is binding.

 

I have removed my 1950 rear end a couple of times but had it on jack stands and used a trolley or floor jack to align the rear end and roll it out.

 

My friend reckons we are too old to crawl around on our backs now so he has installed a " you beaut "  4 post hoist which is good for working under but is limiting the use of a trolley jack to level the rear end.

 

Might have to get 20 or so mates around to lift the rear end level and roll it out!!

 

I feel confident in pushing my point about the problem with the backing of some of the best Buick experts I know - Thanks Ben and Willie and others who all gave the thumbs up to Bens suspicions - I'll let you know the end result.

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15 hours ago, old-tank said:

I have had to use a come-along; just be sure you don't pull it off the jack stands.

 

I've had good success with chains and turn buckles fastened between the rear end and aft frame. The turn buckles are slow but give very precise control and no danger of pulling the car itself anywhere..................Bob

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  • 3 weeks later...

Rear end successfully removed - Ben, Willie and others were correct - it was a binding problem.

 

The only other addition I would make to suggestions is to remove the rear wheels to allow plenty of room to raise/lower the rear end sufficiently to get the motor/gearbox/rear end on a straight plain. This will be influenced as well by year/model and body style - on the 1948 sedanette the rear end had to be dropped low to achieve the straight line between all components.

 

Thanks again to all the knowledgeable people on this forum.

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