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1957 Cadillac Eldorado Survivor (back on the road)


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I found and acquired a 1957 Eldorado Seville about 6 months ago and the engine was seized and missing the intake and carbs.  365 ci with dual carbs.  

The car was dirty and needed a serious cleaning but was amazingly complete, missing hardly anything.

I finally got the engine and tranny rebuilt (original) and installed new brakes, gas tank, PS, Water Pump, etc...etc... and broke the engine in last week and did the maiden voyage today.

The interior is in amazingly great condition and all original.
Blue leather with blue metallic cloth.

I'm trying to keep it a survivor since everything is original and mostly all works rather than perform a restoration.  

 



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Engine Pad: 5762033769
Passenger Frame Rail: *5762033769*

Data Plate: 
Style: 57-623SD7
Body: F W 7 6 8 
Trim No: 53 U
Paint: 94 - 7
Top: 7

ACC: E
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5 hours ago, Restorer32 said:

If you want to keep it original you need to paint the Cadillac script on the valve covers blue. They were never painted anything other than engine color.

 

Yes,

It's likely the valve covers were blue since this was originally a dual card 365.  

Still researching that, but either way, I agree that the script should not be painted.

It will be corrected.

 

Thank You

 

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4 hours ago, Roger Zimmermann said:

By looking at the third picture, I would worry about the roof condition. It seems that the vinyl is bubbling seriously. Most probably, there is a lot of rust under that. I understand that you would like to keep the car in its original condition, but sometimes some repair are needed.

 

 Understood and agreed.

The roof is in great shape, except for the rear edge where it meets the glass and yes, that needs to be addressed with new metal.

I am going to try repairing it without ruining the headliner which is MINT.

May attempt panel bond with new metal

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When I restored my '57 Brougham, I removed the headliner which came back into the car when the restoration was competed. To remove the headliner there is some work involved, like removing all side upper inner moldings. Then the headliner can be removed by taking out the metal staples and bows. The procedure is explained on page 17-50 from the shop manual.

Edited by Roger Zimmermann (see edit history)
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33 minutes ago, Roger Zimmermann said:

When I restored my '57 Brougham, I removed the headliner which came back into the car when the restoration was competed. To remove the headliner there is some work involved, like removing all side upper inner moldings. Then the headliner can be removed by taking out the metal staples and bows. The procedure is explained on page 17-50 from the shop manual.

 

I am in awe that you restored a Brougham and are not locked up in an insane asylum. We've worked on 4 '57 and '58 Broughams and if there is a more frustrating car to work on we have yet to see it. The electricals are what nightmares are made of.

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12 minutes ago, Restorer32 said:

 

I am in awe that you restored a Brougham and are not locked up in an insane asylum.

They let me out from time to time!

To me, electrical was not a real problem. I had to buy a used seat memory and to the wiring; I had much more trouble with the air suspension!

Sorry Logic2, we are disgressing...

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24 minutes ago, cheezestaak2000 said:

beautiful car. i had a 1957 fleetwood limo in 1969. even back then, the parking light bulbs were 12 bucks apiece  lol

 

A common joke laughed about with each other back when: Cadillac Eldorado bulbs $12/ea, same bulb for Chevy $1.29/ea. 

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I seem to remember that 331 Cads (my '49 fastback) , had white letters and also the raised ribs on the valve covers. It has been a very  long time to totally rely on a memory. I rather like the blackwalls , and tire size. Don't let the top get wet. Damp wipe only. Might be a good idea to peel and reapply the vinyl after wire brush and shooting massive amounts of that spray zinc over and into all rusted areas. That might slow or stop the spread until you are ready for surgery.   - Carl 

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2 minutes ago, C Carl said:

I seem to remember that 331 Cads (my '49 fastback) , had white letters and also the raised ribs on the valve covers. It has been a very  long time to totally rely on a memory. I rather like the blackwalls , and tire size. Don't let the top get wet. Damp wipe only. Might be a good idea to peel and reapply the vinyl after wire brush and shooting massive amounts of that spray zinc over and into all rusted areas. That might slow or stop the spread until you are ready for surgery.   - Carl 

 

I'm thinking about cutting out the rust with high speed cut-off wheel (carefully trying to avoid too much heat or sparks).  I've done this before by outlining the area about 50-60% deep with a cut-off wheel then finishing it off with a pair of metal snips.  Once the rust it gone, make a template with a piece of cardboard then a fresh piece of metal that is about 1/8" overlap.  Then use panel bond to secure the new metal in place.

 

 

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17 hours ago, kgreen said:

A common joke laughed about with each other back when: Cadillac Eldorado bulbs $12/ea, same bulb for Chevy $1.29/ea. 

In the mid-nineties, the daughter of a customer drove a Mazda MX-6.  The plastic retainer that held the hood prop rod in place broke and the Mazda dealer wanted something like $9.95 for a new one and it had to be ordered.  I told him to take it to the local Ford dealer and see if was the same as a Probe.  Sure enough, it was, and the parts man returned with a plastic bag full of them and asked him how many he wanted at 99 cents each.

 

It was not the first time, I directed someone to the Ford dealer for MX-6 parts.  One of our truck drivers needed a tie rod end for his wife's car, as was rather taken aback at the price.  The Ford dealer was 1/4 of the price Mazda quoted.

 

Craig

Edited by 8E45E (see edit history)
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50 minutes ago, MarrsCars said:

Fabulous car! My very first car was a '57 Series 62 sedan with 50k miles back in the late 80's. This really makes me smile, enjoy it my friend!

 

 

I'm liking it more and more every day and it's just a cool car that is not giving me many problems putting back on the road (in a barn since 79).

 

Seems like it wants things to go right so I don't give up on her (haha).

--> I'll be starting to work on something that (from experience) makes me cringe...thinking that I'm about to open a can of worms and then with just a little cleaning...a new bulb or reconnect something that came loose....it WORKS !  I've been very surprised in several cases.

 

I've restored a lot of cars and believe me, most project just do not go this easy and require a lot of brand new replacement parts.

 

Anyway, Thanks for the post !

 

Mike

 

 

Edited by Logic2 (see edit history)
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