Alooyz

1964 buick riviera 425ci (new carburetor)

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Hey guys, 

 

Planing to get a new carburetor, found that edelbrock has a new generation called (AVS 2)

 

Did anyone tried this carburetor on 1964 buick riviera? 

 

What is your recomanded carburator and which size do you prefer? 

 

Currently im using edelbrock 650CFM

 

 

Ali

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AVS stands for Air Valve Secondary. The secondaries only open when the demand for more fuel is needed; unlike the secondaries on the AFB which are mechanical and open when you put the pedal to the metal.

 

Buick went to a similar carb in the Quadrajet on the 66 Riviera so you shouldn't have any problems.  Google 'AVS vs AFB' and see what what others have to say.

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I would recommend a non-electric Quadrajet  carb.  This carb pulls 600 pounds of air per minute and has a number 55 jet with vacuum controlled secondaries and blends gas and air efficiently at various altitudes. Atmospheric pressure is 14.7 or sea level I have found with other carbs (except the AFB) to give problems when entering higher altitudes. Just my thoughts on the subject.  

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I run a Q-jet on my 64, but I have a 66 Q-jet manifold.  I don't think you'd want to use an adapter to bolt a spread bore carb to a square bolt manifold.  If you can get a 750 AVS, it would probably work as well.

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First, the ONLY reason to buy a new carburetor is that you like shiny items.  ;):P:)

 

There are absolutely NO new carburetor produced today that will function as well on your BUICK as a worn-out original. Rebuild the original and there is absolutely no comparison. Not only will the originals seriously outperform the new stuff, everything fits, and if you (or your estate, if you are like me with your cars) sell it, the original will create a larger universe of potential buyers, AND a higher price.:)

 

Even if you do not have an original, while not common as a 6-cylinder Chevy, they are NOT rare, and not expensive. I probably have 15~20 in inventory, and there are other vendors that should also have one.

 

If you really wish a different than original carb, upgrades would include a Q-Jet calibrated for Buick (I would suggest a 1968~1970 version if you choose this option) or a Carter thermoquad (TQ) calibrated for the Buick engine. BOTH OF THESE OPTIONS REQUIRE CHANGING TO A SPREAD-BORE INTAKE MANIFOLD as Ed suggested above. The spread-to-square adapters are for used-car salesmen!

 

ALL of the e-clones including the AVS are calibrated for small-block Chevy. How good are your tuning skills, and how much do you wish to spend on tuning parts?

 

Jon.

Edited by carbking (see edit history)
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I had an AVS on a ford for a while, it's a great carb. Secondaries jump like a bear when it's floored. I'm at 2,500ft altitude, and it allowed for a lot of adjustments. It has to be rejetted down two sizes if you're very far above sea level.

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I'm using a 1411 edelbrock and I have zero problems.  If you want something that flows well and starts when you want it too...then it's and good option.

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5 hours ago, first64riv said:

I'm using a 1411 edelbrock and I have zero problems.  If you want something that flows well and starts when you want it too...then it's and good option.

How did you connect the carburetor to the electric solenoid that controls the kick down feature in the transmission?

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On 2/21/2018 at 8:29 PM, RivNut said:

I run a Q-jet on my 64, but I have a 66 Q-jet manifold.  I don't think you'd want to use an adapter to bolt a spread bore carb to a square bolt manifold.  If you can get a 750 AVS, it would probably work as well.

Actully you changed my mind on buying a new carburetor, now im looking for an AVS carburetor, can you give me some carburetor number or a link from ebay so i can buy it direct,,,, in my country they dont rebuild the carbs,,, they keep changing it

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On 2/22/2018 at 2:48 AM, RivNut said:

How did you connect the carburetor to the electric solenoid that controls the kick down feature in the transmission?

I used a right angle bracket with a 4-40 screw and a couple of nuts.  I've attached an image.  I hope that helps.  Were you planning on changing carbs too?

20161220_145149 (2).jpg

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20 hours ago, Alooyz said:

Actully you changed my mind on buying a new carburetor, now im looking for an AVS carburetor, can you give me some carburetor number or a link from ebay so i can buy it direct,,,, in my country they dont rebuild the carbs,,, they keep changing it

I suggest that you 1) determine what CFM (cubic feet per minute) you want, and 2) whether you want a manual or electric choke.  Combine the two and there will be one model number that will fit your needs.  The original carb on your engine was 625 CFM. I think the AVS comes in 500, 650, and 800 cfm's .   You can purchase them from Summit Racing or JEGS as well, no need to shop eBay unless you can get a better price.

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)

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10 hours ago, first64riv said:

I used a right angle bracket with a 4-40 screw and a couple of nuts.  I've attached an image.  I hope that helps.  Were you planning on changing carbs too?

20161220_145149 (2).jpg

That looks like a suitable fix to a problem that has plagued many a Riv 

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If anyone has done this to a 65 or later where the switch is pulled close rather than pushed close, could you post some pictures? Thanks.  

 

Another situation that could come up would be the attachment of a throttle cable valve to an AFB / Rochester 4GC / Quadrajet to operate a 200-4R or 700-R4 overdrive transmission.  Any solutions that anyone can think of?

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Hi,

 

I do have a 66 Riviera GS with the 425 engine. I also have an Edelbrock 1411 carb on it. This carb has been mounted by the previous owner. But unfortunatly he didn't mount the switch on the car but put it in a box in the trunc !!!

I would love to put this switch again in the Engine, but I've no idea of :

- What is it for exactly (Kick down command ?)

- How to connect the electrical part

- How to connect / adjust the mecanical part to the carb.

 

I the photo, I dont understand how the "right angle bracket with a 4-40 screw and a couple of nuts" reach the switch ? Could you explain or (better for me, as I'm non English speaking) give a photo ?

 

Thanks

 

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64 Rivieras use a switch to send 12V to a solenoid in the transmission that engages the "kick down" (passing gear.)  65 and 66 also have a switch, but it also sends 12V to a second solenoid that engages the variable pitch torque converter ("switch pitch".)

 

In this picture, the right angle "L" bracket with the 4-40 screw on it acts a a replacement for a part on the original carburetor that depresses the plunger on the kickdown switch.  The orange rubber is a dust boot for the plunger.

As the throttle lever pulls back, the linkage on the carb rotates. The right angle bracket rotates as well and the head of the screw depresses the plunger on the switch.

 

The 66 switch also incorporates a micro switch on the throttle linkage. The switch pitch feature also puts the torque converter into the high stall mode at idle.  This was designed to keep the car from creeping with less pressure on the brake pedal.

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)

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I'm sure you meant to say "'65 & "66 Ed & not just "66 for the micro switch. Puts the high stall on at idle when your foot is on the brake.

 

Tom T.

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On 7/25/2018 at 4:20 PM, RivNut said:

64 Rivieras use a switch to send 12V to a solenoid in the transmission that engages the "kick down" (passing gear.)  65 and 66 also have a switch, but it also sends 12V to a second solenoid that engages the variable pitch torque converter ("switch pitch".)

 

In this picture, the right angle "L" bracket with the 4-40 screw on it acts a a replacement for a part on the original carburetor that depresses the plunger on the kickdown switch.  The orange rubber is a dust boot for the plunger.

As the throttle lever pulls back, the linkage on the carb rotates. The right angle bracket rotates as well and the head of the screw depresses the plunger on the switch.

 

The 66 switch also incorporates a micro switch on the throttle linkage. The switch pitch feature also puts the torque converter into the high stall mode at idle.  This was designed to keep the car from creeping with less pressure on the brake pedal.

 Hi RivNut, 

 

Thanks for this very valuable explanation. 

Is that a +after contact, or a permanent + that arrives in the switch ? 

 

Edit.

If after contact + needed, where to find it is the best?

Thanks again

Edited by charlooze44 (see edit history)

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5 hours ago, charlooze44 said:

 Hi RivNut, 

 

Thanks for this very valuable explanation. 

Is that a +after contact, or a permanent + that arrives in the switch ? 

 

Edit.

If after contact + needed, where to find it is the best?

Thanks again

There's a yellow wire that comes from the firewall.  It's part of the wiper circuit (shares a fuse) connect to it for your 12V source. The other wire from the switch goes to the solenoid on the transmission.  The solenoid is grounded through the transmission case. The yellow wire is hot when the ignition is on.

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)

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Here's a picture of the yellow wire to which no referred.  Mine has a couple of pieces of black tape around it (?????) 

 

20180727_145145.thumb.jpg.f633269ce831a73c7d35852d75d84b6a.jpg

 

 

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On 2/26/2018 at 8:54 AM, RivNut said:

Another situation that could come up would be the attachment of a throttle cable valve to an AFB / Rochester 4GC / Quadrajet to operate a 200-4R or 700-R4 overdrive transmission.

 

I would think an aftermarket company such as Lokar would have something for those applications.

 

http://lokar.com/catalog/#page=45


http://lokar.com/catalog/#page=47

Edited by EmTee (see edit history)

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1 hour ago, EmTee said:

 

I would think an aftermarket company such as Lokar would have something for those applications.

 

http://lokar.com/catalog/#page=45


http://lokar.com/catalog/#page=47

What I found to be the biggest problem was not the cable itself, but how and where to attach the cable to the linkage on the side of the carburetor to get the geometry exactly right. If the Throttle Cable is not adjusted perfectly, you can destroy a transmission in a matter of minutes.  

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No, but if you have an original AFB carb. you can swap the tops. Will also put the fuel line in the correct location.

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On 7/27/2018 at 9:58 PM, RivNut said:

Here's a picture of the yellow wire to which no referred.  Mine has a couple of pieces of black tape around it (?????) 

 

20180727_145145.thumb.jpg.f633269ce831a73c7d35852d75d84b6a.jpg

 

 

Hi RivNut, 

Once again, thanks for your help.

 

I've searched for this orange or yellow cable, but there is definitely no in my car. I guess this cable come from the firewall. I've got 2 big connectors with many cables on each.  Do you knew from witch connector and position in the connector comes this yellow cable? Maybe my car has another color? I want to check if the cable (whatever color)at the same position could be the right one. 

 

Thanks in advance.

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