Stooge

'37 Century Modest Restoration

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Not alot of progress, but some forward progress and alot of filthy work that i dragged my feet through. Im putting an order together for Bob's including the new bellhousing/ engine mounts, throw out bearing, and a few other things, to hopefully get an engine into this car for the first time, i would guess, in many decades. I think the only  component i am still missing to get the transmission and engine bolted together is the correct clutch fork with the through hole for the pedal linkage, and i believe a is slightly bent/ concave. 

I blew apart the rear a few weeks ago and managed to get it back in over the weekend 

49797267196_e2a47142ed_c.jpg20200417_161235 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 

 

50083697382_793259ba19_c.jpg20200607_111003 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

 

Originally i was planning on just replacing the rear leaf springs with new ones from Eaton, but with the car seemingly being apart longer than it was together and they looked to be in good shape, i pulled them apart, wire wheeled them, ground out any indent marks from the edges, softened the edges and corners, and gave them a once over with a flap wheel to give it a quick little polish. Then painted with durable tractor implement paint and applied some graphite paste lubricant before re-assembling. I still need to  order the leaf spring clamps but i wanted to get the suspension back in so i could get the chassis back on wheel dollies as it was in the way on jack stands

 

50083462101_b938ea2348_c.jpg20200519_175330 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

 

50083461026_75be236166_c.jpg20200523_124729 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

 

50083699082_1a2370ef28_c.jpg20200516_132827 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

 

50083698217_6f85898d75_c.jpg20200521_193450 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

 

50083461611_22f8ea4c82_c.jpg20200521_195130 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

 

50083225333_2ed10f53e1_c.jpg2020-07-06_01-11-51 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

 

I havent pulled the axles yet, but plan to when i do the brakes and replace whatever seals/ bearings are in the outer/ flange. i also have to make some new, what i am assuming are, triagulation bars that run from the rear to the torque tube, one of mine was rusted to the point it was snapped off at the bolt and the other was pretty close to being there. i have the raw materials and die to make new ones saved to my McMaster carr list, i just havent ordered them yet. Theyre going to have to be very slightly different, as the stock ones have a 9/16-18 thread, but the unthreaded portion of the bar seems to drop down to 1/2" or so, so the nuts can unthread into the center and make it possible to install as it would not clear otherwise. i intend to just thread a longer portion of the rod to just be able to run the nuts up further to get them out of the way enough to install. I still need to send out my rear shocks for rebuild. 

 

50082877263_8a07f02047_c.jpg20200627_110009 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

 

50083459111_a7192bdbb8_c.jpg20200627_111535 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

 

50083695997_83bd4c5f2f_c.jpg20200627_123156 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

 

50083458816_6a733fd3be_c.jpg20200627_135838 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

 

50082876868_927b48d5b2_c.jpg20200627_135747 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

 

50083698142_c720b26524_c.jpg20200523_135944 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

 

New Ubolts, (they are a little longer than stock, but i plan on trimming the excess length off the ends) and new bump stops from Steele Rubber, 

 

50083457946_4ff475525a_c.jpg20200704_131821 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

 

50082876218_2c1e7932c2_c.jpg20200704_132014 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

 

I need to dig out my parts storage bins as i would like to get the parking brake cables, fuel lines and brake lines run or atleast mocked up before the body goes back on. I am also planning on running an electric fuel pump in line with the mechanical pump for some back up and was planning on using the 6volt rotary vane Carter one, as i have used them before, albeit 12v ones. 

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Benefits of AACA Membership.

 

"Then painted with durable tractor implement paint and applied some graphite paste lubricant before re-assembling."

 

I have read others on here mention that you should not apply any kind of lubricant between the individual leaf spring elements because the surface friction that exists between adjacent leafs as they flex helps them do their work. Just saying.

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In 1936 GM had leaf springs lubricated with graphite, and a special tool to squirt more in once a year or so. It might not be the best way according to current thinking, but not completely crazy for 1937.

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Yes Bloo:

 I know when I pulled the rear axle on my 37 the rear springs still had the metal "Gaiters". Still had grease in them but the sheet metal was rusted out on much of them. Shop manual shows the fixtures to re-grease them.

 We had a spring shop here in Chambersburg ("Gaumer's"). In 2006 I just sent them the springs and they cleaned them and supposedly re arced them.

100_0690.thumb.JPG.8514d867fb7b257ffd20be648d3b17d8.JPG  

Son Alex helping.

 100_0691.thumb.JPG.53cb1a3cdfea50bd5848899ac9df90f6.JPG      

What was left of the metal Gaiters. Parts on the way to the sand blasters.      

6 years passed between then and when I finally installed them. It seems on my car the rear is lower by 2". Height of the bottom edge of the body at the rear is 14".

DSCF2603.thumb.JPG.1c5f75f4e335a119e4242f84baed95ce.JPG

Of course I still have not installed the NOS shocks I bought for it in 1990. That may help a bit.

 

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12 hours ago, Bloo said:

In 1936 GM had leaf springs lubricated with graphite, and a special tool to squirt more in once a year or so. It might not be the best way according to current thinking, but not completely crazy for 1937.

My `36 Buick coupe had been disassembled 30yr prior to when i bought it 7yr ago. Rear springs, most of the covers had rotted away, and leafs were all rusted together, no movement. I doubt they had ever been re-lubed since new. I went with a new set of super-sliders from Eaton.

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My 35 is missing the metal gaiters on the rear springs. Does anyone sell replacement ones or are they needed?Thanks,Greg

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I wasnt going to post this, because its a stock deviation, but i see this thrown around enough that it could be useful to someone else and did this over the weekend. 

 This is one of those concessions i've been hemming and hawing over for awhile, with not wanting to deviate too far from stock, and have a safe enough car that i could take on road trips. I've had enough instances of being in cars with brake failures, (it doesnt take many and i've had a few recent ones in the last few yrs) with old original stuff, all new stock reproduction/ nos stuff, new style, etc. and figured adding a dual master cylinder using the stock pedals and stock transmission side mount was a happy mid point of not deviating too far from stock, but just a little extra layer of safety,  peace of mind while not interrupting too much visually, unless you climbed under the car to look. 

First tracked down a 1" bore manual drum/ drum master cylinder with the outlets that would be facing toward the frame, then got out the cardboard and came up with this,  3/16" plate, fully welded on both sides, though i still need to correct some of the hardware i used with what i had on hand. i mocked it up on the bench with the torque ball flange nad the transmission crossmember, and didnt have any interference issues, but i am planning on getting the engine mounted in the frame this week, so if i have any issues, i will know soon. 

 

50108312082_2fc9a31e15_c.jpg2020-07-13_09-10-12 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

 

50107497468_b1c57a5feb_c.jpg2020-07-13_09-09-06 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

 

50107501623_a64438c264_c.jpg2020-07-13_09-10-46 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

 

50107504798_a2cd9dff51_c.jpg2020-07-13_09-11-45 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

 

50108389922_a81e417b0f_c.jpg2020-07-13_09-37-20 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

 

50107508348_980b32a096_c.jpg2020-07-13_09-12-58 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

 

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