StianOland

Heat raiser and headlights for '31 Buick

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Hello everyone!

 

I am working to refurbish a 1931 Series 60. My grandfather had the same car when he was young, so that's my great motivation as I love these cars. I have  dissembled the car, just finished the woodwork and started the paintwork.

I have obtained most of what I needed it for parts but missing headlights and heatraiser.

 

As you can see in the picture,  the headlights on my car has been switched for some smaller lights. I want the original lights. Is there anyone who has something that can be used or tips for where I can find something?

 

I also need heat raiser. The one I have has been fixed in a bad way. The part has written the number 146-80 (Marvel) om. See pictures att.

 

Thank you very much for your help. Since this is my first post here, I hope for a good response!!

 

Best greetings from Norway!

 

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Edited by MrEarl (see edit history)

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I found the same heat riser on e-bay, it was perfect but expensive.

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Hi Dave!

 

Thank you for your answer. Have watched ebay for a while, but no luck. Think this is a part that many want and few have for sale ...

 

- Stian

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Although it’s probably unpopular with purists, I always recommend blocking off the exhaust flow to the cast iron intake riser. 

 

I went through a few manifold risers that eventually crumbled and cracked from the constant heat of the exhaust, before finally blocking off the heat from the exhaust manifold and from the exhaust butterfly valve.  The car still starts and runs fine without it.

 

Now I can have a shiny intake manifold riser where the paint won’t burn off, the intake tube will never again burn out, and the riser will last for the life of the car.

 

If you can’t find a replacement, I would grind and clean up that weld, clean up, paint and detail the riser, block the exhaust as described above, and use it until you hopefully find a better one.

20171009_173300.jpg

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The heat riser on my '31 was worse than yours. I made it look good and blocked the exhaust. It always ran well. Todays gasloine is more volatile than back in '31,so the car can do without the heat riser.

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When I go to switch out the heat risers will it be obvious how to block it off? I read in another post some use freeze or casting plugs.

 

Thanks

 

Dave 

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2 hours ago, Dave39MD said:

When I go to switch out the heat risers will it be obvious how to block it off? I read in another post some use freeze or casting plugs.

 

Thanks

 

Dave 

 

I’m not sure if the ’31 is similar to the ’27, but the way the system works is the exhaust butterfly valve is shut off during warm up, which forces exhaust air into the intake manifold riser and out the small pipe back to the exhaust stream, below the butterfly valve.

 

After warm up, the butterfly is opened and lets the exhaust out without flowing fully through the intake riser.

 

On my ‘27s, I put a stainless steel plate where the intake riser attaches to the exhaust manifold to block the flow.  Then a freeze plug can be used where the small pipe enters the butterfly valve housing, to prevent exhaust flow from there, isolating the intake riser manifold from the exhaust flow completely.

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6 minutes ago, 27donb said:

 

I’m not sure if the ’31 is similar to the ’27, but the way the system works is the exhaust butterfly valve is shut off during warm up, which forces exhaust air into the intake manifold riser and out the small pipe back to the exhaust stream, below the butterfly valve.

 

After warm up, the butterfly is opened and lets the exhaust out without flowing fully through the intake riser.

 

On my ‘27s, I put a stainless steel plate where the intake riser attaches to the exhaust manifold to block the flow.  Then a freeze plug can be used where the small pipe enters the butterfly valve housing, to prevent exhaust flow from there, isolating the intake riser manifold from the exhaust flow completely.

Do you experience a stumble or hesitation on take off before the engine gets to normal temp?? You should after blocking that off.   

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Thanks for the info. The 31 is different in that it uses two pipes, inner and outer, between the heat riser and the butterfly.

 

Thanks again

 

Dave

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1 hour ago, retiredmechanic74 said:

Do you experience a stumble or hesitation on take off before the engine gets to normal temp?? You should after blocking that off.   

 

I don't take off before engine gets warmed up, but I also use Carter BB-1 instead of the original Marvel carburetors. 

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10 minutes ago, Dave39MD said:

Thanks for the info. The 31 is different in that it uses two pipes, inner and outer, between the heat riser and the butterfly.

 

Thanks again

 

Dave

 

I wonder if it could still be done.  The main goal is to isolate that riser from the destructive exhaust gas. 

 

Back in the 1950s a mechanic blocked off just the small pipe and allowed the exhaust manifold to still feed the riser. Exhaust gas was not allowed to flow through the Riser anymore, just into it, and that caused moisture and rust to build up, which eventually resulted in a cracked and ruined riser.

 

I forgot to mention also that if you do block off the exhaust flow through the riser I recommend gutting the butterfly valve so that there is no chance that the exhaust flow would be cut off by the close position of the butterfly valve, which could hurt the engine. My butterfly valves have been removed from the housing.

 

 

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Hello everyone!

 

Brilliant with so good response and good advices!

 

I think I have made a translation error. The part I refer to is the carburetor heat control. Sorry! Does the same principle apply as heat raiser?

 

I lack the valve inside the carburetor heat control.

 

Anyone who has any good advice about the headlights?

 

Thank you so much!

 

- Stian

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I think everyone understood what you were asking about.  I can't help on the headlights but keep searching e-bay they will show up eventually. You might try contacting the vendor I mentioned above, he may have some that have not been listed.

 

Dave

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If you can get to any of the major swap meets, you should be able to find your headlights.  I know I have seen them at the AACA Hershey fall meet.  Price is a different question.

 

On the heat riser, go to the exhaust bypass valve mounted below the exhaust outlet from the manifold.  remove the butterfly inside.  remove the internal pipe from the valve to the heat riser.  Find a freeze plug that will match the O.D. of the outer tube and put it in the bypass valve.  You can then install the outer tube for appearance only.  On the heat riser ( part above the carb and below the intake manifold)  Be sure that the tubes inside are not rusted out.  Be very careful with this heat riser, exhaust over the years has damaged the cast iron as you are aware of from the welds.  The ony purpose that you need the riser for is to be a passage for air/fuel mixture to get into the intake manifold through the two internal tubes.

 

Bob Engle

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Thank you so much for all the clarifying info! Thank you so much to JayG!! I have contacted this seller and crossed my fingers!

 

Best regards from Norway!

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I have this. I may not be using it. I guess it will depend on my engine running well without it.

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