zipdang Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 I'm working on the vent (wing) windows on my 1959 Fiat and have a couple of general questions: First: The glass when removed has what I'll call shadows of where the rubber seals met the glass. The glass is in excellent condition except for these stains. Is there a way to remove these blemishes? I've already tried various solvents and a sharp razor blade to no avail. Second: Parts of the assemblies that need to be rechromed are attached to the non-chrome painted portion with what I'll call rivets - see pictures. I'm assuming I'll have to separate them for whoever does the chrome work for me. I was going to drill through these rivets, but what method could I use to reattach them. I don't have the capability to create what was there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 Riveting is not rocket science unless you were hot riveting a bridge or a crown wheel to a differential. All you need is something like a heavy vice, anvil or a solid piece of steel as a backing and a rivet set (to match the profile you want). Rivets are available in hundreds of different sizes and lengths and many materials. The materials might no make much difference if you are painting the finished part. With the proper sized rivet you place the head on whatever solid backing you have, put the set on the other end and hit it with a hammer. You might waste one or two rivets until you get the hang of it with the result you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Cocuzza Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 Have you tried alcohol or acetone or maybe even some gasoline on the rubber residue? Maybe even some starting fluid or a grease remover- or WD 40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 (edited) Is it actually rubber residue? I wonder if it is etched into the glass? The razor blade should have removed anything on the surface. It could be etched in: sand and fine hard dust etc. on the edge of the rubber, gets under the rubber and thermal movements would grind it on the glass. If it contains adhesive, eucalyptus oil works. You might try other aromatic oils if that is not available. The oil will soften the adhesive and it will just slide off. Edited February 4, 2018 by Spinneyhill (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harold Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 You might try a mildly abrasive cleaner that contains feldspar like Bon Ami or Barkeeper's Friend (not Ajax or Comet!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Ash Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 You can drill the rivets out, just don't enlarge the holes too much. You can buy a package of mixed tubular rivets at a good hardware store. Brass rivets are ideal, won't rust, easy to set. While you are there, buy six loose bearing balls slightly larger in diameter than the shank of the rivets you'll be using. Once you are ready to reassemble the window, have helper to hold the frame and hand tools to you, unless you have four arms or more. Choose a rivet that is about 1 to 1.5 diameters longer than the thickness of the frame and bracket. Put the rivet shank through the bracket and frame, place a bearing ball on the open end of the rivet tube, and squeeze the ball down on the rivet with Vise Grips until the end of the rivet spreads a little. If the rivet head is down in the channel, a narrow piece of steel can be slipped into the channel to stick out above the edge. Take the ball off and squeeze the rivet down flat. Of course, the ball may fly off to hide under the workbench, so that's why you have six of them. If you want smooth ends on the rivet, you can drill a shallow dimple in the end of a piece of 3/8" rod or bar. Sometimes, a small washer that is a tight fit on the rivet shank can help in cases where the hole is oversize. See photo below. Try tooth paste or fine rubbing/polishing compound on the glass stains. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 10 hours ago, Tinindian said: Riveting is not rocket science Real rocket scientists have been using epoxy for the thermal tiles, might be something to look into. Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 0000. Steel wool might help as well. I have used it with cleaning agents. It gives you just enough bite, without scratching the glass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbine Tech Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 13 hours ago, zipdang said: I'm working on the vent (wing) windows on my 1959 Fiat and have a couple of general questions: First: The glass when removed has what I'll call shadows of where the rubber seals met the glass. The glass is in excellent condition except for these stains. Is there a way to remove these blemishes? I've already tried various solvents and a sharp razor blade to no avail. Second: Parts of the assemblies that need to be rechromed are attached to the non-chrome painted portion with what I'll call rivets - see pictures. I'm assuming I'll have to separate them for whoever does the chrome work for me. I was going to drill through these rivets, but what method could I use to reattach them. I don't have the capability to create what was there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbine Tech Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 You could try " Miracle Cleaning Eraser" Sold at Wal Mart under their brand Great Value. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John348 Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 (edited) I had heard a mixture of either vinegar or lemon juice and salt uses with the 0000 steel wool. If the marking and codes are not that important and it looks like it is flat glass I don't think it could cost that much to have two new pieces cut. After all you are "all in" at this point. I always found that vents and glass channels are a royal PITA and very time consuming to get right Edited February 4, 2018 by John348 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 A paste of cerium oxide and water will likely remove the rust stains. If not replacement will...........Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John348 Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 When you get around to installing the glass in the frames Restoration Specialty has all a good selection thicknesses of the glass setting rubber 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zipdang Posted February 4, 2018 Author Share Posted February 4, 2018 Thank you for all the recommendations! Seems I was making a bigger deal out of the rivets than was necessary. I'll give your suggestions a go. The stains on the glass are not rubber or adhesive. I tried all the solvents mentioned to no avail. I was afraid to try anything abrasive for fear of scratches but I'll try some of your ideas and see what happens. The glass is flat with a keyhole shaped hole for the latch mechanism which I'm guessing wouldn't be hard to have duplicated. I would like to re-use the original because it does have the original maker's marks on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John348 Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 8 hours ago, zipdang said: Thank you for all the recommendations! Seems I was making a bigger deal out of the rivets than was necessary. I'll give your suggestions a go. The stains on the glass are not rubber or adhesive. I tried all the solvents mentioned to no avail. I was afraid to try anything abrasive for fear of scratches but I'll try some of your ideas and see what happens. The glass is flat with a keyhole shaped hole for the latch mechanism which I'm guessing wouldn't be hard to have duplicated. I would like to re-use the original because it does have the original maker's marks on them. Maybe check with a local glass shop and see if they have a trick? I do know this much from my own experience is do not use one of the polishing kits we all have seen. There are different "AS" ratings of glass and the side glass is softer and does not like to be polished. Also if you drag you finger nail on the glass and defect is below, there is little you are going to do with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zipdang Posted February 6, 2018 Author Share Posted February 6, 2018 I've had success with the 0000 steel wool and Bon Ami (and elbow grease)! I've also separated the parts for rechroming. The "rivets" holding them together were solid. If I replace them with hollow rivets, will that be strong enough since these are the latching mechanisms and frame rigidity points? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Ash Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 Yes, it will be OK to use hollow rivets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akstraw Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 I would try polishing out the marks with some type of abrasive and a buffing wheel. Heat buildup is a concern when polishing glass, so a wet slurry is better than a dry polish. Toothpaste or a cleanser as mentioned above would work as an abrasive. Lower RPM is better. I would avoid steel wool myself, though others may have had success with it. Years ago, Eastwood sold a polishing compound for glass, as well as a felt wheel that you could use with a drill. I had some success with it on a similar project back then. Good luck! Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John348 Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 2 hours ago, Akstraw said: I would try polishing out the marks with some type of abrasive and a buffing wheel. Heat buildup is a concern when polishing glass, so a wet slurry is better than a dry polish. Toothpaste or a cleanser as mentioned above would work as an abrasive. Lower RPM is better. I would avoid steel wool myself, though others may have had success with it. Years ago, Eastwood sold a polishing compound for glass, as well as a felt wheel that you could use with a drill. I had some success with it on a similar project back then. Good luck! Andrew I did not share the luck that Andrew had with the Eastwood kit. I might have been my technique but whatever I did or did not do the glass came out worse. I was told that the side glass has a different AS rating then windshields, and it is softer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zipdang Posted February 7, 2018 Author Share Posted February 7, 2018 I finished cleaning the glass today with the 0000 steel wool and Bon Ami. They look great. Now to find a place to rechrome the removed parts near central Ohio. Another topic to start? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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