Wheel seals rear 1925 Master model 40

[48762]

I have had an adventure lately trying to figure out the rear wheel seals for my 1925 Master model 40. I bought seals from Bob's only to find out that they were way to big to fit (the only ones Bob's offers). After more research going thru the various parts manuals it became evident that the short wheelbase and long wheelbase masters have different rear axle assemblies. The 128" has a bigger bearing, seal, and shedder than the 120" wheelbase Masters'. So after contacting most everyone in the know I think I finally might have a source for the felt rear seals. But here is my real question, how do I get at the felt seal? It appears that I have to pull the bearing out in order to get at it. There is no obvious way to get to the seal from the brake drum side. Has anyone have actual experience with this operation? Please give me a clue if in fact you have the correct answers for removing the old, and installing the new seal in the rear wheel. I have included a couple of pics to show what I am dealing with. The empty cavity near the brake drum side is where the felt seal should go (already extracted this one with a pick). 

Thanks for any and all advice.

Tom Dierks

48762

Bloomington, IL

[Terry Wiegand]

I am just asking here, but doesn't the brake drum need to be removed to get further into the hub?  Does your car have a full floating rear axle?

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

Edited February 2, 2018 by Terry Wiegand
GRAMMAR EDIT (see edit history)

[dibarlaw]

Tom:

 I believe that the shedder and the stamped steel seal cap can be removed with an internal puller used with a slide hammer set up. It may be able to be tapped out with a brass hammer.

 The Standard shedder has screws to hold it to the drum and a gasket between. I then pulled the steel seal cap, old seal and bearing. Cleaned everything, made new gaskets and reinstalled in reverse order.

  

[Terry Wiegand]

Larry, your Standard is different than what he is showing.  That is why I asked if the drum needed to be removed to get into the center of the hub.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

[Hubert_25-25]

Terry, 

    To answer your question, the Standard rear axle is 3/4 floating and the Master is full floating.  Hugh

[Leif Holmberg]

Why not put the new felt seal back without removing anything,it looks like you have removed the old felt seal in the pictures,just oil the felt seal at first and do it in reversed way? 

Leif in Sweden.

[48762]

That is a possibility Leif. I had to pick out the old one, and I tried cutting a section out of the larger seal to see if I could make it fit. However the seal is supposed to 9/16” thick and Bob’s seal is incorrect at 3/4” thick. So I couldn’t even begin to get it to fit.

keep the comments coming, all good advice.

Thanks

[Mark Shaw]

Call here to get the correct size and material for gaskets.

 

http://www.olsonsgaskets.com/

 

Edited February 3, 2018 by Mark Shaw (see edit history)

[48762]

BTW the brake drum may need to be removed and that is really what I am trying to figure out. Basically from which end do I get at the seal area. I am not looking forward to either method. Removing the bearing with possibility of damage to the bearing, or taking the drum off and dealing with all the staked nuts and studs. Hoping someone out there has been there, and done that.

Tom

[Hubert_25-25]

Tom, 

     The rear hub felt dimensions for your car are in this chart.  Verify with Olson's before they ship.   There was another place that also just makes felt seals but I never ordered from them.  The seal you removed was likely hard from the old dried up grease and oil. The new seals are very soft and they fold easily and push right in.  No need to disassemble the hub.    Hugh

 

[Mark Shaw]

Felt seals have no inside or outside and work fine as long as you use heavy gear lube and do not overfill the rear end.