Wheelmang Posted January 30, 2018 Posted January 30, 2018 The passenger side doors on my 26 DB kiss at the bottom if both are opened at the same time. The only adjustment I see allows movement in and out from the body. I do not see any adjustment toward the front or back of the car. Greatly appreciated if anyone can shed a little light on this. First picture is doors closed second show interference when opening both at the same time. Paul
keiser31 Posted January 30, 2018 Posted January 30, 2018 The only way I can think of if the wood is solid is to use shims under the upper hinges or between the upper hinge and door. 1
Spinneyhill Posted January 31, 2018 Posted January 31, 2018 Could it be because the body is too high in the middle cf. the door hinge lines? Thus shim under the cowl and perhaps under the rear body and let the middle sag? I am assuming you have front hinge front and rear hinge rear doors.
Wheelmang Posted January 31, 2018 Author Posted January 31, 2018 13 hours ago, Spinneyhill said: Could it be because the body is too high in the middle cf. the door hinge lines? Thus shim under the cowl and perhaps under the rear body and let the middle sag? I am assuming you have front hinge front and rear hinge rear doors. I wondered myself about the body somehow sagging in the middle but frame is real solid on this and the problem is only on the passenger side.
oily rag Posted January 31, 2018 Posted January 31, 2018 Bent or loose lower hinge ? With the doors partly open lift each and see what is moving. I had a 29 Dodge that had rusted on the inside of the cowl on the right side and sagged a bit. 1
Spinneyhill Posted January 31, 2018 Posted January 31, 2018 3 hours ago, Wheelmang said: body somehow sagging in the middle Sagging in the middle would cause the doors to contact at the top. I am suggesting the opposite. I once watched a fellow adjust the doors on a mid-30s sedan (?). It involved looking at the gap and adjusting the bottom hinges with a rubber hammer. The movements needed were small 1
Machinist_Bill Posted January 31, 2018 Posted January 31, 2018 OK, you say it's only the passenger side. See if there are any differences between the drivers and passenger side hinges. Something doesn't sound right. Have you mounted the doors or did you purchase it that way? Bill 1
Wheelmang Posted February 1, 2018 Author Posted February 1, 2018 Just eyeballing the bottom hinges on the right side may have a little more space than the driver side. I hope to get more accurate dimensions tomorrow. If that is the case then I guess the hinges would have to be bent to correct. Will post pictures and steps used to correct. All hinge mountings are rock solid.
Guest Posted February 1, 2018 Posted February 1, 2018 One should also check the alignment of the "A" pillar and it's connection with the body sill.
Wheelmang Posted February 1, 2018 Author Posted February 1, 2018 19 hours ago, Spinneyhill said: Sagging in the middle would cause the doors to contact at the top. I am suggesting the opposite. I once watched a fellow adjust the doors on a mid-30s sedan (?). It involved looking at the gap and adjusting the bottom hinges with a rubber hammer. The movements needed were small This sounds a little like what I may be facing. Could you please provide a little more detail on the process. My hinges appear to be riveted to the door so would I have to remove the doors and then pound "adjust" the bottom hinge with the door off. I can see where 3/8" at the bottom of the door would likely only mean a very small amount of adjustment at the hinge point. To answer Bill's question, I have not taken the doors off. They were this way when I got the car. Tinindan, A pillar is solid. I have seen almost no rust or deterioration on this one.
Wheelmang Posted February 1, 2018 Author Posted February 1, 2018 21 hours ago, oily rag said: Bent or loose lower hinge ? With the doors partly open lift each and see what is moving. I had a 29 Dodge that had rusted on the inside of the cowl on the right side and sagged a bit. Thanks for the comment. I suspect somehow bent hinge. No movement at all when putting some significant lift pressure on the inside bottom of either door.
retiredmechanic74 Posted February 1, 2018 Posted February 1, 2018 A trick I learned a long time ago when a door will not shut properly and there is no sign of wear. Take a piece of 2X4 and place it between the front of the door and the rocker panel and gently push the door against it (may take 3 or 4 times) after each time check to see how the door shuts. I believe the cause is from slamming the door shut and the overall weight of the door when fully opened causes the post to shift. I can't began to tell you how many times I repaired the closing of doors this way. 1
Wheelmang Posted February 1, 2018 Author Posted February 1, 2018 2 hours ago, retiredmechanic74 said: A trick I learned a long time ago when a door will not shut properly and there is no sign of wear. Take a piece of 2X4 and place it between the front of the door and the rocker panel and gently push the door against it (may take 3 or 4 times) after each time check to see how the door shuts. I believe the cause is from slamming the door shut and the overall weight of the door when fully opened causes the post to shift. I can't began to tell you how many times I repaired the closing of doors this way. I think the problem is discovered. Pictures will be posted later and the piece of wood in a door jamb will likely be used as a fix.
Guest Posted February 1, 2018 Posted February 1, 2018 (edited) Most of us pay no attention to the door dovetails and bumpers. Even if people didn't hang onto doors when they are open, every time we drive over a bump the door trys to stay in place (inertia) so the body moves up and down wearing the dovetail and/or the assorted components. As soon as the dovetails are worn then the door starts to sag. Before trying retiredmechanic74's excellent suggestion you should check the dovetails. When I worked at a GM dealership (1959-1974) we tried to keep customers away from our trim department and body shops. They would have been flabbergasted at the wedges and blocks of wood that were used to align hoods, doors and trunk lids, even on brand new vehicles. Good luck. I would rather overhaul a differential than try to align doors. Some people on these forums call things by the wrong names so I am including two pictures to eliminate any errors about what I/we are speaking. Edited February 1, 2018 by Guest (see edit history)
Wheelmang Posted February 2, 2018 Author Posted February 2, 2018 Tinidian - I think you and Retired nailed it. I did not read your post until I was ready to post my pictures. I have been able to "re position" , using a small wood block, the passenger side door " a little" I did not go for full correction as the dovetail was already striking the low side of the B pillar opening. I have them corrected enough so that they no longer kiss when opening. See the pictures showing alignment of doors on the B pillar. The first picture is the drivers side and the second is the passengers side. My problem now is the dovetail screws are securely in place after being there for 91 years. They do not want to be disturbed. I WILL PERSEVERE.
Wheelmang Posted February 3, 2018 Author Posted February 3, 2018 Passenger side front door is now, not perfect, but no longer making out with the rear door when opening. The problem with the dovetail being too low was coaxed upward into alignment with a drift punch. The screws would not move and I did not want to take heat to the area due to blistering the paint. It surprisingly took only a few taps. Case closed and on to the next challenge. 1
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