Any tips for V-12 Installation??

[John_Mc]

Well it looks like this weekend, I’m going to drop in my newly rebuilt V-12 into my ‘37 Zephyr.  It’s an exciting time, but anyone have tips, in particular the assembly, greasing and installation of the universal joint???  Thanks in advance.   Here it is ready to go in

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Edited January 25, 2018 by John_Mc (see edit history)

[larry butcher]

I'ave been where you are several times. Does the engine turn over by hand ? I used a homemade adapter that bolts up to the end of

the crankshaft where the fan bolts up. This saved time later trying to turn over a newly rebuilt /tight engine in the car. I used a

very heavy electric drill ( 2 man  3/4 "). Pulled the plugs and pumped oil down the cylinders and turned it over and over. If you are

doing this by yourself, pad the the engine compartment with old blankets , all around to prevent paint chips. I always installed the

trans. in the car 1st. Once in the car, hook up to engine, slide back ,put the "clam"  shell together. Use both gaskets and align  grease

fitting toward bottom . Front engine mounts can be installed on the engine before,BUT BE CAREFUL not to scrape the paint on

the front cross member. You could install the mounts after engine is set in but set up a little , if you don't mind climbing under.

Hardest part may be juggling  trans to align the splines. Really clean the  paint off of starter and pan surface before installing

starter. Don't forget the alignment clip installed between starter and pan rail. Piece of cake!   Have fun!

[John_Mc]

Thank for tips AND for your confidence!

[38ShortopConv.]

 

John, motor looks great, if you had a LZ. factory oil filter  you could bolt it on the left head, that's where they sit and  steel pipe it up with flare nuts to bell housing  before you put motor in, you will be glad you did, easier than when in car. Bottom pipe from filter to lower hole of three on left  bell  housing, feeds lifter oil gallery. Side pipe on filter to one  of 2 feed outlets higher on bell housing. Oil pressure sender unit also connects there. You could use a Tee fitting  and plug 2nd hole.  Somebody may provide a diagram.  I dont have that skill.      
U/ joint, has bolt up center,   Just pack  with grease, fit bell cups and bolt on  clamshell, grease nipple to bottom as Larry says. Roy 

[John_Mc]

Thanks again for getting back to me is such a prompt manner. I have the oil filter in hand and know where it goes but I hav no idea where the lines and pressure switch go.  Can anyone post a picture close up of their installation or some kind of a sketch??

 

Also, if I bought one of these in 1937 from my local Ford/Lincoln dealer, what kind of decal(s) would be on the filter housing???

[Tom_Overfield]

When I installed mine last year, the transmission went in first, then I took two 4 inch bolts, cut the heads off, ground a taper on the bolts, then slotted them and installed them on the engine where the transmission is fitted. Now when you put the engine in, slowly lower the motor into place and line up the bolts to the transmission and slide in, I was lucky, I only had to turn crankshaft slightly to get the splines to match..  I put the motor mounts on before installation,  then wrapped the crossmember with cardboard to prevent scratching the cross member. Once in, simply unscrew to alignment bold with a screwdriver. From removing the motor from the test bench to having the motor in and bolted all around, 35 minutes. Helps to have two other helpers, one under the car to assist lining up the guide pins, two above, one running the lift, one the moving the motor in place as you slowly lower the motor.  It a lot quicker do accomplish once you start, be sure and wrap some cheap moving blankets everywhere.

have fun. Enjoy the process.

 

Tom

 

[Mssr. Bwatoe]

Yes, get that chain off the aluminum intake manifold! 

[Bleach]

Don't feel you'll be entirely safe or be less careful with moving blankets and the like. They will not prevent dents!

[Ken/Alabama]

21 hours ago, Mssr. Bwatoe said:

Yes, get that chain off the aluminum intake manifold! 

Just courious as to what the chain is attached to while lifting this engine. I have an apparatus that fits inside the lifter valley for the V8 Ford but of course it doesn't fit the V12.  I usually  remove the heads and hook the chain up to a stud on each side and like you can lift it in and out with the hood in place.  

[Bleach]

Why not just remove the hood? The only time I leave the hood in place is on cars that have a way to disconnect the springs from the hinges and open the hood 90 degrees.

[Mssr. Bwatoe]

BOLTS THOUGH  CHAIN INTO BLOCK WHERE MANIFOLD WOULD BOLT,

OR LIFT FLANGE  OR HEAD STUDS

[Ken/Alabama]

6 hours ago, Bleach said:

Why not just remove the hood? The only time I leave the hood in place is on cars that have a way to disconnect the springs from the hinges and open the hood 90 degrees.

Because it isn't necessary and I can't remove it by myself and then I have to find somewhere to store it out of the way to keep it from getting paint damage.  

[detroitsoul]

This is a good thread and I hope will come in handy soon.

 

[19tom40]

John, on the V-8's, we get a tube of John Deere Cornhead grease and fill the U-Joint with it through the zerk fitting on the cover. The Cornhead gerase is very close to the original U-Joint grease from Ford.

[John_Mc]

Thanks Tom, I have the corn head grease on order !