Jump to content

Trim removal help needed


Recommended Posts

I started picking away at the Riv again (1964), it's been a while. Most of the trim removal I understand but this bit that runs along the door and out under the sail panel confuses me? How would you remove this without damaging it? If I could figure out the quarter panel part, the door part should be obvious. There's also the rear ribbed piece behind the glass that I would assume you pry off like the horse shoe trim side pieces but if I'm wrong please correct me. Thanks for any help

 

[URL=http://s74.photobucket.com/user/rj440/media/Riviera/DSC07678_zps8d3bys5r.jpg.html][IMG]http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i258/rj440/Riviera/DSC07678_zps8d3bys5r.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

 

[URL=http://s74.photobucket.com/user/rj440/media/Riviera/DSC07679_zpsftm7j7a0.jpg.html][IMG]http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i258/rj440/Riviera/DSC07679_zpsftm7j7a0.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

DSC07678.JPG

DSC07679.JPG

Edited by 64R
pictures didn't upload (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites

The trim piece that runs along the rear window is fastened with speed nuts which you access from inside the trunk.  While you're in there, look for speed nuts that secure the sail panel molding to the car.  It's been a couple of years but I'm pretty sure about this.  But........

 

Ed

Link to post
Share on other sites

The piece under the rear window is held on by 5 speednuts, on inch long post on the trim. I believe a 7/16 long socket and extension will reach them. Pop the trunk, and reach under the rear window area, you'll find the access holes for them. If you lose a couple of the nuts, like I did, they can be easily replaced by Ford 1/4" "thread cutting nuts" for emblems. I found some with rubber on the backs to help seal the holes. They have the best prices and are nice reproductions. The original GM ones are crazy expensive. The ones you'll find at pep boys are garbage and don't hold at all.

 

That piece of trim is known for holding dirt, and is part of the rust out issues Riv's get right there. When I removed mine, there was a thick layer of dirt under it. I'm planning on adding duct seal putty under mine, at the leading edge and around the holes, to seal it from doing that anymore.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well you guys were right about the rear piece, in theory, apparently it had been removed before so why bother with that whole awkward speed nut attachment when you can just goo it all in with a good old tube of silicone :wacko: Anyway once I figured that out it sure came off easy. The side trim spear is another story, there's a speed nut at the far end but nothing forward that I can reach from the trunk so I assume I will have to do some interior removal, wasn't really hoping to get to deep at this point but we'll see how she goes. Cheers and thanks!

Link to post
Share on other sites

There might be only the one speed nut on that sail panel molding. As I said, it's been a long time since I removed one.  You can buy speed nuts at most any hardware store.  When I removed the molding under the rear window on my 63 a number of years ago, there was still some OE dum-dum around and in the holes in the body and a border around the edges.  The factory just didn't bolt metal to metal with no kind of seal. The rust problems that were in my trunk were caused by water sitting in the channel that holds the rear glass.

Link to post
Share on other sites

That worked, got the spear part off, a bit nerve wracking prying on it, was stuck pretty good. Next question(s) how do you get the part forward of it off? runs under the quarter glass and also under the door glass. And just for kicks how do you get the trim that runs up the sail panel on a 45 degree angle and then along the drip rail, sure looks to be on very tight.

 

[URL=http://s74.photobucket.com/user/rj440/media/Riviera/DSC07681_zpsydw5xpsm.jpg.html][IMG]http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i258/rj440/Riviera/DSC07681_zpsydw5xpsm.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Link to post
Share on other sites

The outside trim is removed by removing the interior panel, lowering the window all the way, and removing some small phillips head screws.  The trim that runs up the sail panel is removed by first removing the rubber seal, then the trim part that hold the seal, then you can access the one you're describing.  That piece goes up the sail panel and along the roof line to the windshield

You'll find a layer of dum-dum between that piece and the roof.  Have fun! :D  

 

Get back to us when it's time to remove the door skin and accompanying trim on it.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Boy this sounds like fun. I'm pretty baffled about the rubber seal? The trim is not even half an inch wide and seems to be right tight to the drip rail, can't imagine where there would be a rubber seal? I'll look harder tomorrow. Doesn't help that my picture uploading skills aren't up to snuff. Thanks for your help Ed!!

 

 

DSC07680.JPG

Edited by 64R (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites

The rubber seal to which I'm referring is the one that creates a weather seal between the glass and the body.  Pull it from the channel, remove the channel, then you can remove the trim strip to which you're referring. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok got it. I just want to get the rear quarters and roof sorted out for now. Still working on my new shop but started to go crazy not working on a car for so long. I fixed the tail panel a couple months ago.

 

 

DSC07637.JPG

DSC07640.JPG

DSC07657.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I sure hope they repop this piece, mine is completely rotted out. I'm not sure how I can even access the screws into the trim without removing the glass. Just a very awkward way to remove trim, nothing like any other car I've worked on

 

 

DSC07682.JPG

DSC07683.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites

There are a number of guys who part out Rivieras as a part time vocation / hobby.  I'd bet one of the would have something for you.

Gene Guarnere in PA, Steve Lorenzen in IN, Larry Daisey in the SoCal area to name a few.  They, as well as others, all advertise in the Riview.

 

Ed

Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎1‎/‎25‎/‎2018 at 11:20 PM, 64R said:

Well I sure hope they repop this piece, mine is completely rotted out. I'm not sure how I can even access the screws into the trim without removing the glass. Just a very awkward way to remove trim, nothing like any other car I've worked on

 

 

DSC07682.JPG

DSC07683.JPG

 

Is the piece you pictured the sweep for the quarter window that mounts on the quarter window trim?

 

If it is, those are available in a reproduction from a couple of the vendors in the Riview, generally as a full set of window sweeps, but I believe it is a part that is available.

 

If it is not the window sweep ... please disregard.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes it is the sweeps and has luck would have it I found that they do repop them, OldBuickParts sells for $95 a set. I'll be ordering them soon. 

 

Thanks for the names Ed, I'll keep that in mind when I need something that definitely isn't repopped. Being that I live on a rock off the west coast of Canada, shipping bits and pieces are a pain and can be pricey

Link to post
Share on other sites

When you posted the picture, you had last talked about the roof rail molding.  I thought that's what you posted a picture of. I knew that wasn't being reproduced.  As Randall says, the sweeps are being reproduced.  Sorry if I mislead you.  Soft parts and a few hard parts are being reproduced but unlike a Mustang, Camaro, or Chevelle, you can't build a Riviera from scratch.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine on the doors were in that condition. I had all my glass out to get to the screws, and even then I had to drill out most of them. I replaced them with brass ones from the hardware store. I'm not a fan of the design, on previous cars it was interlocking tabs and one screw, which makes more sense.

Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, RivNut said:

When you posted the picture, you had last talked about the roof rail molding.  I thought that's what you posted a picture of. I knew that wasn't being reproduced.  As Randall says, the sweeps are being reproduced.  Sorry if I mislead you.  Soft parts and a few hard parts are being reproduced but unlike a Mustang, Camaro, or Chevelle, you can't build a Riviera from scratch.

 

Oh yes Ed I do realize that, and up here in the rain forest it's even worse. You really can't find any good used anything as we're all in the same leaky boat, literally. 

 

3 hours ago, jsgun said:

Mine on the doors were in that condition. I had all my glass out to get to the screws, and even then I had to drill out most of them. I replaced them with brass ones from the hardware store. I'm not a fan of the design, on previous cars it was interlocking tabs and one screw, which makes more sense.

 

Honestly the worst design of all time, having to tear so much of your car apart to remove a piece of trim. Thank you for confirming my suspicion that the glass too needs to come out, which is totally idiotic. Of course cars were never built with any consideration to taking them back apart.

 

I just want to refurbish it for now not do a full frame off restoration. I've already got 3 of those on the go. The Riv just started to fall apart a bit as you may have seen in my earlier pics where I fixed the tail panel. Just want to keep it alive for now until it's turn comes up.

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, 64R said:

 

Oh yes Ed I do realize that, and up here in the rain forest it's even worse. You really can't find any good used anything as we're all in the same leaky boat, literally. 

 

 

Honestly the worst design of all time, having to tear so much of your car apart to remove a piece of trim. Thank you for confirming my suspicion that the glass too needs to come out, which is totally idiotic. Of course cars were never built with any consideration to taking them back apart.

 

I just want to refurbish it for now not do a full frame off restoration. I've already got 3 of those on the go. The Riv just started to fall apart a bit as you may have seen in my earlier pics where I fixed the tail panel. Just want to keep it alive for now until it's turn comes up.

I'm in the same place with my 64. I bought it, thought it was going to be a couple weeks of replacing dried hoses, and changing fluids. It's been a year, and I've currently installed all new weather stripping, engine wiring, and replaced the fuse box with a break panel.

 

This is my first Buick, although there's many I'd like to own. It's also the oldest car I've owned. It's unusual, not just in looks, but in how it's constructed. Some design elements are obviously prototypical A body, and some of it is left over from 30's thinking, and some of it is just specific to that car alone. If you think that trim is stupid, wait until you have to change the heater core. It was engineered by some real sadistic a-holes. The rear window trim is a treat too, my generally rust free car was completely rusted out at the bottom of the rear window. Temporary fix is aluminum tape, and gluing the trim in place with silicone, until I can afford to put it in a body shop to get a new window frame made. I suspect there's maybe a handful that didn't rust there.

 

If you're pulling the side glass, you might want to make sure your window motors work. My doors did, but not the quarters. I pulled them all, and everything (including the guide rails for the glass) had the original 54 year old grease on them. I think I was the first person to pull the door skins off. They worked much better after cleaning and regreasing.

 

Even with all of it's quirks, I absolutely love mine. I really enjoy working on it. Wonderful cars.

Link to post
Share on other sites

OK Riviera People: The chrome sail panel trim piece.  One speed nut towards the back of the molding,  the rest square barrel clips.   The issue is to NOT put dings in the  sail panel while prying off the chrome piece.  I've doused  the panel with WD-40 then used a hard plastic squeegee placing it flush against the metal while using it as a fulcrum for the pry tool.  Easy to put dings in this area that will go totally unmissed until ya block sand with a guide coat.  Mitch

Link to post
Share on other sites

Funny you should mention it but my rear side window motor isn't working all that great, need to help it down by hand while pushing the button. If they make new motors I'll replace it, if not maybe they can be rebuilt. Fortunately my heater core is ok for now, that is a nightmare job on virtually any car but no doubt even worse on a Riv. I have rebuilt the engine so she runs like a dream and has stainless exhaust so some of that stuff is in good shape.

 

Speaking of rear window trim what's the trick to getting that off? Usually I use one of those Y shaped tools but most trim is 4 pieces not 6 super tight ones. Is there a particular piece to start with?

 

Yes Mitch I noticed how incredibly flimsy the sail panel is easily leading to tiny dents. I've been trying to find new square barrel clips but haven't had any luck so far. I know they make the rectangular ones for the horseshoe trim so I would have thought they would make the square ones too?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Rob.

 

Before you spend money on a new window motor you might try removing and cleaning both the existing motor and the window channels.  The motor's gears will need to have all of the old grease broken out and fresh grease installed. 

 

There is an excellent chance that the motor is fine but that a thorough cleaning of both is what's needed.  If you're helping it down by hand it suggests that the electrical circuit is fine, but there is too much resistance elsewhere in the window's travel.  

 

It would be very frustrating for you if you installed a different window motor only to have it suffer from the same problem.  

Link to post
Share on other sites

I had a guy in a glass shop tell me that the rear windows in a station wagon usually never quit working.  Kids in the back seat used them all the time and the windows never had a chance to get gummed up.

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Scott Mckenzie said:

I got my sail panel barrel clips from a guy on E Bay with the handle "Best offer Counts" https://www.ebay.ca/itm/63-64-65-Buick-Riviera-Exterior-Sail-Panel-Trim-Clip-Set-Top-Quarter-Clips-Nuts-/232561541712

 

Thanks Scott I'll look that up, given a choice I would like to remove the ones that stayed in the panel for better body work finishing and the one that stuck on the spear may not want to go back in and hold correctly, and that's just the one side, haven't pulled the other one off yet.

 

55 minutes ago, Eric's.64.Superwildcat said:

Hi Rob.

 

Before you spend money on a new window motor you might try removing and cleaning both the existing motor and the window channels.  The motor's gears will need to have all of the old grease broken out and fresh grease installed. 

 

There is an excellent chance that the motor is fine but that a thorough cleaning of both is what's needed.  If you're helping it down by hand it suggests that the electrical circuit is fine, but there is too much resistance elsewhere in the window's travel.  

 

It would be very frustrating for you if you installed a different window motor only to have it suffer from the same problem.  

 

Good thinking, that makes good sense, and yes replacing it only to be in the same boat would be all kinds of frustrating.

 

28 minutes ago, RivNut said:

I had a guy in a glass shop tell me that the rear windows in a station wagon usually never quit working.  Kids in the back seat used them all the time and the windows never had a chance to get gummed up.

 

Again, that does make good sense, you do use the front windows a lot more than the rear ones. Gummed up definitely describes the way it tries to work. The rear switch only wants to bring the window up so it may be faulty so I will order one of those. The front control works in both directions other than the window getting stuck.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 months later...
28 minutes ago, bluesy66 said:

The ribbed one is removed by taking off the nuts thru the trunk

 

Or at least it should be, mine was siliconed on even though the studs on the trim weren't broken. Guess they ran out of speed nuts?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...