29 erskine engine rebuild (more pics finally)

[automaschinewerks]

 hello everyone, well, dictator's engine is sitting back in the frame,  so I pulled the Erskine engine out for overhaul over the winter.

[automaschinewerks]

I haven't seen so much rust in a block in a long time, but I'm going to make a new baffle plate for the water jacket.  I'm going home to check my parts manual tonight, but does anybody have a picture of a good baffle?

thanks - terry

[nvonada]

Looks like a lot of the bolts broke off too.  Good luck!

[automaschinewerks]

yes, all but 3 of the water jacket cover bolts broke.  I am going to take pictures and post when I have the various castings in the various machines to work on.   this will be a story in progress!

[stude24]

As you may have found out already, in order to remove the crankshaft you will need to remove the rear main filler block. This is a die-cast piece and will likely  come out in pieces and you'll need to have a new one made. Hopefully someone out there can provide the dimensions or a replacement part.

[studeq]

As most probably know the Erskine for 1927-29 used a non-Studebaker engine. The 1928-29 models 51 and 52 utilized the model 9-F Continental which was a 160 c.i. Six (2 3/4 X 4 1/2') with 43 h.p. Top speed with the standard 4.78 gear was 62 m.p.h.

 

 

[automaschinewerks]

A few pictures of my filler block for rear main.  its still in one piece, but in rough shape.  in the pics is the aluminum block I had left over from a job about 5 years ago, and a rear seal housing from a modern (60's to 70's) continental for comparison.  the size, shape, and offset of the area that the cork, or rope seal fits into is nearly identical.  its funny to see similarities in some makes of engines and their parts designs when they are decades apart.   I will post mores pics of progress,  with dimensions, once I get things cleaned up and start carving the filler block from that block of aluminum.  I knew this day was coming!

 

[studeq]

Testing the Erskine model 52 at the Studebaker Proving Ground.

 

[Spinneyhill]

Driver's bowler hat essential! And the data logging system in the back seat: two men (in hats) with clip boards etc.. Great photo!

[automaschinewerks]

well, the engine overhaul over the winter turned into - I hope I have time this fall to work on my own engine for a change! - here's a few pics so far:

silver soldered crack on front of block,  got the water jacket bolt holes drilled and tapped,  and a pic of the lifters before and after resurfacing on both ends

[automaschinewerks]

I got a few more pics, but I can only upload so much I guess.  ill show some more progress next week, gonna be boring block for the repair sleeves soon

[automaschinewerks]

(looking back on some of these pics I interesting, ive never taken time to do the before and after picture thing)

so here's a couple more:

lifter cam ends resurfaced

lifter valve end in valve grinder butt wheel (cam ends done in same wheel, but have to rotate lifter to get swirl pattern and convex shape)

turning valve heads to fit exhaust seats, then grind the faces in a valve grinder - early 2000s Chrysler 3.3l engine exhaust valves fit intake seats,  for the exhaust valve I turned heads to 1 11\32" to fit in exhaust seats

ill get more pics - vw diesel retainers, perkins 4.203 outer valve springs and Chrysler keepers to finish the valve train

 

[automaschinewerks]

a couple more pics:

showing the repair sleeves to be pressed into the block

the boring bar mounted on top of block, and 

getting ready to finish bore sleeve inside to honing size

[automaschinewerks]

here's a couple more:

block in surface grinder

showing valve guide cutoff tool to trim port side of guides down to level of casting to improve airflow

block set up in honing machine to finish cylinders

valve seat cutters to cut valve seats

[automaschinewerks]

here's the rear seal top half part of the project

the full round sitting in groove to test the fit

cummins piston top in lathe starting to turn the shape with what was left of the seal holder sitting on top 

the seal half in the block after i cut it in half ( still have to file fit to parting line)

the seal half with crank in place

[automaschinewerks]

the last pic for the day:  the short side cut off half of the seal housing and the drawing i got off of the remnant piece.  if anybody needs a clarification on my dimensions,  reply and ask.

once i start making the bottom half i will show the drawing and more pics.

[commander Dave]

Simply amazing! So far over my head it's somewhere in the clouds. Respectfully, Commander Dave

[automaschinewerks]

the engine is back in the car and running again. finally!! here's some more pics; 

 

the first three are the crank in the crank grinder turning the rod journals

turning connecting rod small end bushes from used model a transmission bushings,

then finish honing the rod bushings to size

 

 

 

Edited July 31, 2019 by automaschinewerks
include text (see edit history)

[automaschinewerks]

im just getting to the interesting pics but ill try tomorrow, im at my download limit (unless somebody knows something about that I don't)

[automaschinewerks]

here's a couple more, boring the rod Babbitt, and boring the piston pin holes in the con.rod boring machine.

 

 

 

Edited August 1, 2019 by automaschinewerks (see edit history)

[Spinneyhill]

13 hours ago, automaschinewerks said:

im at my download limit (unless somebody knows something about that I don't)

You are allowed 9.77 MB per post, made up of one or more photos. When you get to that limit, finish the post, exit your topic, go to Home, then come back in and do another post.

[automaschinewerks]

thanks very much, ill try that, I knew there would be something simple!

[automaschinewerks]

4 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

You are allowed 9.77 MB per post, made up of one or more photos. When you get to that limit, finish the post, exit your topic, go to Home, then come back in and do another post.

yup, goin home worked! thanks! things are so simple when you know.

 

so first one here is a poor pic of my rectangular block of aluminum in lathe starting to turn rope seal groove,

then in milling machine cutting out rear seal filler block to fit over main cap,

then making piston pin buttons in lathe, 

and last pic is of rods and pistons, Babbitt and pin bushes finished, with piston pin buttons (center piston with pin and buttons installed)

piston pin buttons to replace circlips, aircraft engine-style

[automaschinewerks]

the replacement water jacket cover from dave on Vancouver island.  I got flywheel cover and a starter pedal from him to complete the car.  parts I never thought I would find. I still kinda cant believe my luck@

Edited August 1, 2019 by automaschinewerks (see edit history)

[automaschinewerks]

 

 

 

 

 

pi

 

top pic showing rear seal block almost finished, 

then the block installed in place over the rear main cap,

then the finished bottom end with the oil feed pipes

[automaschinewerks]

finally, engine assembled and in test stand

[stude24]

NIce job on the engine and fabrication of the rear filler block, did you happen to make any extra ones?

[automaschinewerks]

I have the old filler block for the rear seal,  my former boss' friend that does aluminum casting wanted to make them out of cast aluminum, which would be quicker and repeatable.  I still may do that if I drum up some interest to make it worthwhile for him to make a pattern for the castings.  it would be a cost plus the shipping deal, it wouldn't be a huge profit markup thing for me.

the filler block I made probably took about 12-14 hours, making another one probably wouldn't take quite as long now.

getting them cast would probably be the way to go, I forget now but when I visited him on a Kubota engine job, he was making the pattern for a pierce arrow head, and cast a few for a club somewhere.  

[stude24]

Not sure there would enough demand to justify the casting costs, but with all the technology out there perhaps they could be made with a 3d printer.