DB26

1926 Dodge Brothers Coolant Leak

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On ‎2‎/‎1‎/‎2018 at 1:35 PM, Spinneyhill said:

Thank you. That has always been my thinking. But that is much harder to do than to just run a groove right through!

Nothing to it Mr. Spinney, you can put in a circle groove in each end of the bearing, about 5/8's inside, and then put your straight line oil groove in top and bottom of the bearing, connecting the two circle grooves, and drill a oil in to bearing hole, where ever the oil enters, and line it up, and have the hole intersect the length way groove.

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On ‎2‎/‎1‎/‎2018 at 4:48 AM, Machinist_Bill said:

If the groove is not in place then the "Load" of the spinning shaft would force out the lubrication. Then there would be a heat build up. Then the brass would seize onto the shaft. Brass loves to do this!

 

Bill

" AGREE "

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Update for everyone. 

 

I bought a new shaft and a few other odds and ends from ROMAR. George is a stand up guy and has helped me tremendously with information and getting me the right parts. 

 

Im going to ditch the packing and use modern lip seals thanks to a few recommendations. 

 

Sligermachine (Kyle) here on the forums currently has my water pump and is going to make some new bearings for me. 

 

For the meantime I removed the rubber hoses and cleaned stuff up to get ready for the installation.

 

I found something interesting though, maybe you guys and gals on the forum here can figure something out. When I removed the upper radiator hose I found a long peice of wire in the water jacket of the cylinder head. 

 

IMG_2181.thumb.JPG.4b57e185bbcacbebb9b92b092b65f9ee.JPG

 

That wire was resting loosely in this area. (The red line represents where the wire was)

 

IMG_2179.thumb.JPG.bd42b1a597fe20d5418b80d397ed96d1.JPG

 

Any ideas? 

Edited by DB26 (see edit history)

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15 hours ago, 27dodger0 said:

Looks to me like part of a coil to keep the hose from collapsing.  Just a WAG however!!

I was thinking the same thing. Could have floated in there 20 years ago and no one noticed. 

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Maybe someone thought there was a blockage in the head water jacket and was trying to clean it out with a homemade tool. Might want to blow some air in the water inlet just to make sure there is nothing else in there? Protect the outlet side from exiting debris when you do this. Don't ask how I know that! 

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Okay everyone. The ordeal is over and I am back up and running. I had to purchase a 12 ton press to get the gears back on the new shaft, but she's all back together now. 

 

First off a big thank you to Sligermachine here on the forums. He took my pump and and custom made the brand new bushings to replace my old marred ones. They are a perfect fit for the brand new shaft. He had a quick turn around and cared for my water pump like it was his own. He updated me on progress every step of the way. I will definitely be going back to him for future machining needs. 

 

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Thanks goes to ROMAR. I got my new shaft and distributor drive gear and new miscellaneous parts from them. Great quality parts delivered fast. 

 

Thank you to Myers Early Dodge parts. I got my radiator hoses and some more miscellaneous things from them. I got the black hoses as they fit and look great. 

 

And a final huge thanks to all the great advice and recommendations I received from the all the members here in this thread and on this forum.

 

Oh and I used the oil seals you recommended wheelmang! Thank You!

 

Once the pump was repaired. I installed the new oil seals to replace the traditional packing.  The original impeller installed quite easily onto the shaft. Like a said before, I then had to purchase a 12 ton press to install my new distributor gear and original main drive gear. They went on fairly easily. Nice tight fit. 

 

IMG_2258.thumb.JPG.281d5b7c22b96f83b17c70da702506f2.JPG

 

IMG_2257.thumb.JPG.e3da7dd55ba466a5ab25a92a3765ea07.JPG

 

 

On with the new gaskets:IMG_2259.thumb.JPG.253c992d53d7063a3b806fd89b274807.JPG

 

 

 

And here it is installed in the car:

 

IMG_2260.thumb.JPG.eed93681db342750347b671bb91be0ea.JPG

 

Edited by DB26 (see edit history)
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DB26   Had a thought regarding the wire you found in the water jacket. Have you determined if it is steel or perhaps a "sacrificial metal" that someone put there as an anode?

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It could be from the casting process. My '21 has a rod rolling around in the intake passage that would be extremely difficult to remove. The block had to have been cast around it.

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You've gone to a lot of trouble, I've always considered a drip from the pump glands par for the course and keep an ice cream container under the pump when parked in the garage. If the packing is in good condition, it will only drip slightly and seal up after a few minutes once parked. I always check my radiator level before driving and keep a flagon of water on board in case it leaks. If I get a decent amount of water in the ice cream container and/ or notice a few more than the odd one or two drips when idling, I tighten the nut until it stops. I've just replaced the packing rope for the second time in the 20 yrsI've owned mine as it wouldn't stop leaking with tightening and the ice cream container would overflow when parked and I'd lose too much coolant, so I've repacked it and its good again. It's a very fiddly job, you have very little clearance and must pick out every bit of the old spent packing, then use a razor blade to cut a new piece. I just use quarter inch pump packing graphite rope. It's better to have it a sixteenth too long than too short and you'll know when it's right or a tad long because it will be a devil of a job to get the washer in and the thread to engage in order to tighten it, but once you succeed it'll be good for another 20 years!

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On 4/3/2018 at 6:03 PM, Texacola said:

DB26   Had a thought regarding the wire you found in the water jacket. Have you determined if it is steel or perhaps a "sacrificial metal" that someone put there as an anode?

Hadn't thought of that. I guess it's possible. I left it out of the equation for now. 

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