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Hanging door key cylinder


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The drivers door key cylinder is hanging on my daughter's 1990 coupe Reatta due to her overzealous friend that used a slim jim to unlock.  If you hold the cylinder in place the key will unlock both doors and will lock the drivers door.  I took the door apart to find two switches that are hanging by their cables. One cable has a U-shaped bracket that looks like it would fit around the cylinder.  The other switch looks like its mounting bracket is broken and looks like it should be attached to the latching mechanism.  I also found a melted amber plastic piece that may have been holding the cylinder in place.  Please attached photos.

 

Looking for any suggestions on where the hanging switches should be and what should be holding the cylinder in place.  Thanks for you help --

Loose in bottom of door.jpg

Hanging key cylinder.jpg

Dangling switch.jpg

Second danling switch.jpg

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It appears from looking at your second photo that the retainer clip has came off the lock cylinder. The red arrow in the  photo below shows where the clip goes. The clip is probably laying in the bottom of the door. The photo is from RockAuto where you can buy the lock cylinder with the clips.

 

door lock clip.jpg

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Ronnie -- Thank you for the picture.  It looks like the switch in my second picture includes the clip and should be reinserted to hold the cylinder.  I'm not sure how to position the switch but maybe the rubber plunger on the switch is actuated when the key is turned clockwise to lock the door.

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There is a rubber booted plunger switch riveted  to the clip, this is part of the anti-theft system and as you surmised,  is activated when the cylinder is rotated with the key to disarm the system The picture Ronnie posted is of a GM lock cylinder without the disarm switch attached to the clip, though it is similar. From your 2nd picture above, the clip and switch appear to be intact and just needs to be slid over the back side of the lock cylinder (around  the slot in the cylinder body). The amber blob is just hot glue used at the factory to assemble portions of the interior door panel. Be aware also of the fiber optic going to the cylinder, it can be pulled out if you aren't careful while reinstalling and securing The cylinder.

 

The switch has a three wire harness attached and the clip should be permanently attached. If the clip has separated from the switch, you will need a replacement  switch and clip to hold the cylinder in and maintain proper operation of the anti-theft system.

 

KDirk

 

 

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KDirk -- Thanks for the explanation. Since the switch with the clip is intact, I should be able to clip it back on the cylinder.  Now I have to determine where the second switch (in my last picture) goes.  It would appear to be part of the latch mechanism.  However, it looks like the plastic mounting is broken off.  So maybe it was an integral part of the latch.

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Just saw that you had a second switch hanging.  That would be the door handle switch,  that senses when the outside door handle is lifted to open. This triggers the inside courtesy lights  and odometer on IPC to light up (for 1990 models, on 88 and 89 it is used to trigger the so called light show). That switch mounts to a bracket on the door handle  with a single small phillips head screw, and if it is broken (the switch that is) probably.can't be reattached. You can tape or zip-tie it up out of the way somewhere but will not have courtesy lamps on when lifting the outside door handle. Just make sure it isn't closed (or just unplug it) to prevent the courtesy lamps from staying on.

 

I have a few spare door handles for 88-90 (91 omitted this switch from the handle design and is and thus a not direct replacment )  if you think you want to replace it, but they'd need painting to match, and are a real bear to install, speaking from experience.

 

KDirk

 

 

 

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I agree with Kevin as he knows the electrical end of this. Replacing the door latch is not a 10 minute job. The window is lowered all the way down, the inner door panel comes off, and the weatherstrip on top of the door comes off. The latch on the end of the door also comes off as does the end rubber on the top of the door. Then you trace the leads from the door handle down to their connection. When that is all done you use a 10mm socket and remove the two nuts holding the latch on. One is visable the other you have to "feel" for. Then the latch "almost" comes off the vertical rods but not quite, you have to "finesse" to get them off. Replacement is the reverse of above.

 

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DKirk and DAVES89 -- Thank you both for additional information.  I've done some additional searching. When I expanded my picture of the second dangling switch, I could see the shape of the switch more clearly. I was then able to look in a shop manual for an 89 Reatta (a year earlier than my daughters car) and found a picture of a door ajar switch (see attached).  This looks like the dangling switch except mine appears to have the plastic piece with mounting screw tab broken off.

PS:  My daughter just visited so I was able to see if lifting the outside handle would wake up the dash -- It did.  So it looks like the dangling switch is the door ajar switch.  So I've ordered a replacement --

Door ajar switch.jpg

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The door ajar switch is mounted to the door latch assembly, not to the inside of the door handle. Easy to identify because it has a yellow or green plunger depending on whether it's the driver or passenger side, and a red 2 pin connector shell on the end of its harness. If the switch body  is all black it is from the door handle. Looking at the picture again, the switch looks black though it is in the shadows so maybe I'm incorrect on that. I do know the door handle switch is much easier to damage while slim-jimming a lock than is the door ajar switch due to it's location.

 

  KDirk

 

 

 

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