Spinneyhill Posted September 10, 2019 Share Posted September 10, 2019 (edited) 4 hours ago, Sactownog said: so when this engine is rebuilt, you are suggesting I run 10w-30 in it? Yes. After running in. I am using a 5W-40 CI-4 in my 1930 DC engine - it has a few miles on it. If you use a low number before the W, it means the oil behaves as a lower viscosity oil when cold, i.e. at startup. This means full lubrication starts quickly because the oil is easy to pump and flows more easily than SAE 30 oil. Oil viscosity charts show a very steep reduction in viscosity as the temperature rises. You might like to read Richard Widman's paper about oil - lots of graphs there. https://www.widman.biz/Corvair/English/Links/Oil.html There are no "cork gaskets" now. They are rubber impregnated cork, much better. For the sump, spend as much time as needed to make sure the top of the pressed steel sump is truly flat to improve the chances of a good seal against the truly flat (machined) surface of the crankcase. And don't tighten the bolts enough to bend that surface again because it will leak! Edited September 11, 2019 by Spinneyhill (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StillOutThere Posted September 11, 2019 Share Posted September 11, 2019 https://bestgasket.com/vintage-engine-gaskets/ These are what MoPar retailers are selling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted September 11, 2019 Share Posted September 11, 2019 (edited) 22 hours ago, Sactownog said: the purists seem to take to much to heart from those original books I would be a bit stronger in my terminology. It is lack of knowledge (ignorance is a strong word for that) I think that makes some people Luddites. The thing is, many of the lubrication etc. terms used in the old books are not used now and the products are not available now. I have a large text book dated 1940 that clearly outlines the known serious problems with oil - rapid sludge formation, cannot handle high pressures, major viscosity change with temperature and so on. Edited September 11, 2019 by Spinneyhill (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted September 12, 2019 Author Share Posted September 12, 2019 UPDATES FROM LAST NIGHT'S TEAR DOWN. Got the front timing chain and large sprocket off, you can tell the chain was very loose, this will be replaced with new chain and gears. the amount of gunk in the engine is a bit ridiculous, the cam looks good, I am thinking it can be cleaned and re-used but will not make that determination until after I clean it and see how it looks. all the Pistons are out now, the bearings look good except one that seems to have a ridge on the bearing on the center, no picture of that yet, but I will get that on Monday. the tube that lubes the timing chain is for sure clogged, it may have sprayed some oil out of it but it sure does seam clogged. the lifters all look perfect and will be re-used. any tips or info, feel free to give opinions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted September 12, 2019 Author Share Posted September 12, 2019 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted September 12, 2019 Author Share Posted September 12, 2019 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted September 12, 2019 Author Share Posted September 12, 2019 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted September 12, 2019 Author Share Posted September 12, 2019 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted September 14, 2019 Share Posted September 14, 2019 Looks pretty good. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted September 17, 2019 Author Share Posted September 17, 2019 This is the back end of the crank, it looks pretty good, I have seen others that are warn down and have to be fixed. mine seem's fine, I plan to polish the crank and see how it looks. but it does not look bad at all in my opinion. share your thoughts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted September 17, 2019 Author Share Posted September 17, 2019 Well, here is the block in all its glory. The cylinder walls are clean and smooth, not issues there. the bearings are smooth with no scoring and can be reused. not planning on boring the cylinders over or anything crazy. Really I am going to freshen up, clean and put back together. nothing to crazy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted September 17, 2019 Author Share Posted September 17, 2019 The valve cover area has been the most gross due to pockets of oil turned to sludge in all corners, around the valve guides, f-ing everywhere. but slowly its getting cleaner. At this point I am just waiting to get this block cleaned and start ordering parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted September 17, 2019 Share Posted September 17, 2019 Your instructor will be able to tell you how to measure the crank and bores for wear. I don't think I have ever been in as deep as this without putting new bearings in, but I guess if everything measures out you should be OK. One photo shows the flywheel studs are not seated but you probably already knew that. Does the school have a hot tank? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted September 17, 2019 Share Posted September 17, 2019 2 minutes ago, JACK M said: Your instructor will be able to tell you how to measure the crank and bores for wear. I don't think I have ever been in as deep as this without putting new bearings in, but I guess if everything measures out you should be OK. One photo shows the flywheel studs are not seated but you probably already knew that. Does the school have a hot tank? I would go ahead and get new bearings. I would never go that far on an engine without doing so. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted September 17, 2019 Author Share Posted September 17, 2019 14 minutes ago, JACK M said: Your instructor will be able to tell you how to measure the crank and bores for wear. I don't think I have ever been in as deep as this without putting new bearings in, but I guess if everything measures out you should be OK. One photo shows the flywheel studs are not seated but you probably already knew that. Does the school have a hot tank? The shop does have a hot tank, I plan on soaking/cleaning everything tomorrow afternoon. I will measure and probably get new bearings, I want things to work efficiently and be new. the rear flywheel bolts are not seated and need to be replaced, some dumb kid put a bar against them to turn the engine and jacked up all the threads, needless to say, it pissed me off, but they are only bolts so they will be replaced also. the instructor looked at the bearings and said we might be able to re-use them. but like I said, I will probably replace just to make all new. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted September 23, 2019 Author Share Posted September 23, 2019 This weekend I was able to get the Intake & Exhaust Manifold sandblasted and painted. piece by piece this engine will come back together. these two pictures are before (right off the engine) and after sand blasting (no paint yet) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted September 23, 2019 Author Share Posted September 23, 2019 intake before sand blasting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted September 23, 2019 Author Share Posted September 23, 2019 ready for paint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted September 23, 2019 Author Share Posted September 23, 2019 then painted with 1200+ degree silver paint and ready for install when engine is done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted September 23, 2019 Author Share Posted September 23, 2019 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted September 23, 2019 Share Posted September 23, 2019 You are VERY lucky those came apart without incident. Looking GREAT! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted September 23, 2019 Author Share Posted September 23, 2019 10 minutes ago, keiser31 said: You are VERY lucky those came apart without incident. Looking GREAT! yeah, So far the only thing on this engine that is giving me problems is the water tube in the block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted September 26, 2019 Author Share Posted September 26, 2019 UPDATE: was able to slide hammer out the water jacket in the block which came out in one piece (thankfully). I got the engine in the steam washer for the 1st hour to see how it cleans up and it did come out pretty well. I will be putting it back in the tank on Monday to clean even more. ALSO: I did the measurements on the crank, the crank has been turned (.30 under on Main) (.20 on Connecting Rod's). the only issue I have is that finding .30 under main bearings is going to be hard to find I guess. I might have to have the crank turned .40 under spec to be able to get new bearings or deal with putting the engine back with the bearings that were in it which do not seem to have any issues. as for the connecting rod's, I will get new bearings and polish the crank so that should be an easy step. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted October 17, 2019 Author Share Posted October 17, 2019 UPDATE: I have got the stock piston's and rod's cleaned. put the engine into the hot tank again to try and get the remaining grease and crud off the block. The paint has for the most part come off and the water galley's are getting less clogged. the pistons are clean and once I get the mic spec's on them and the cylinder walls with a bore gauge, I will decide if I am going to use the pistons again or buy new ones. the crank has been turned .40 over and the rod journals are also .40 over. I found bearings from Old Moparts.com and have been buying majority of the things needed for this build from them as they are very helpful. the cam bearings have been banged out and I will be putting in new bearings for the stock crank. was going to put a HP cam in but I dont feel this is the type of engine that performance upgrades would really make a difference in, so its getting a refresh and put back together. plans: put back together, paint silver, and run it. stay tuned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted October 17, 2019 Author Share Posted October 17, 2019 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted October 17, 2019 Author Share Posted October 17, 2019 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 If you want all the crud out of your block, get a pressure washer and blast out the block through the casting/freeze plug openings. I could not believe what came out of my 48 Plymouth block - two large pails of rust and debris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted October 17, 2019 Author Share Posted October 17, 2019 i did not shoot the interior of the block with a pressure washer, I did however soak with PB BLASTER/WD40, then put the block in the steam bath, then used air hose to blow out all the holes and I know what you mean, I got a ton of crud out of the block. makes me think how bad the radiator is. it ran cool (not hot) but I am sure there is crud in the radiator that needs to be flushed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 Fun stuff alright. I will usually poke around inside the water jackets with a wire coat hanger or the likes along with water pressure. Don't forget to do this to the head as well. Same with the oil galleys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stakeside Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 (edited) 16 hours ago, Sactownog said: i did not shoot the interior of the block with a pressure washer, I did however soak with PB BLASTER/WD40, then put the block in the steam bath, then used air hose to blow out all the holes and I know what you mean, I got a ton of crud out of the block. makes me think how bad the radiator is. it ran cool (not hot) but I am sure there is crud in the radiator that needs to be flushed. I had my 29 dodge DA block acid dipped and then sonic tested for wall thickness. My first block had thin wall between the upper water jacket and valve guide area and couldn’t continue with the rebuild. Edited October 18, 2019 by stakeside E (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted October 22, 2019 Author Share Posted October 22, 2019 UPDATE: Got the new connecting rod bearings in and torqued, need to get them measured to know if I have any problems to attack. I know the crank and main bearings will work, I also got the cam bearings out and need to get the new ones in, they will be placed in a freezer prior to instal to help shrink the bearings before being installed. little by little this engine is getting put back together (I Hope) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted October 22, 2019 Share Posted October 22, 2019 Thanks for the update. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted October 22, 2019 Share Posted October 22, 2019 Do you plan to balance this engine? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted October 22, 2019 Author Share Posted October 22, 2019 59 minutes ago, Surf City '38 said: Do you plan to balance this engine? this will be done once the connecting rod's are confirmed to work with Crank and the piston's are confirmed to go back into the engine within spec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted October 24, 2019 Author Share Posted October 24, 2019 update: got the front lower cross member rivets cut off and got the cross member removed which will make for easier engine install. the rear cross member which holds the transmission upper mounts and center sifter has been removed and both will be sand blasted and painted. the engine spec's are in tolerance for the main bearings and rod bearings. I will start measuring the cylinders for pistons and find out if I can still use the same pistons or if I need to get new pistons. new rings will for sure go in. I got a dremmel to take care of the intake and exhaust valves and may open up the ports a bit depending on how I feel. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted October 24, 2019 Author Share Posted October 24, 2019 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted October 24, 2019 Author Share Posted October 24, 2019 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stakeside Posted October 25, 2019 Share Posted October 25, 2019 Do you plan to rebuild the oil pump? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted October 25, 2019 Author Share Posted October 25, 2019 44 minutes ago, stakeside said: Do you plan to rebuild the oil pump? actually, I have seen some guy's rebuild the pump and do some UPDATES to them to make them more efficient, however I can not find the person who does this. it was on instagram and for some reason its been a pain in the A$$ to find that person. so now I am considering purchasing a new pump so that it is brand new and not rebuilt. do you have any opinions? I would like a high flow oil pump but have not seen them anywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted October 25, 2019 Author Share Posted October 25, 2019 well after searching I have found that there is no High Pro oil pump and the old one is all I get, so I will buy a new one and go with what I got. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now