Sactownog

1933 Dodge BARN FIND - HARLEAN'S COMEBACK

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I believe you can find shock bushings online from Steele Rubber Parts. That old Dodge is looking smart!

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update: I have torn down most of the engine parts (generator, oil filter, all wires & mechanical items on engine, carb, etc) and will be removing hood, radiator and grill shell, from the vehicle tomorrow and removing the engine. 

 

I have confirmed I can rebuild the 230 flat head 6 in my upcoming engine building class at the local college where I live.

 

I will be decking the head, possibly adding a new cam, not sure if I am going to go with a bigger piston, and painting engine. 

 

stay tuned. 

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I guess I didn't look closely enough at the first photos in this thread earlier. You've got an engine out of a 1953 Dodge that displaced 230 cu. in. from the factory. That is quite a step up from the original engine so I don't know how much you'd need to go with larger pistons to have a good performer.

 

I'd be interested in how they worked the starter motor/bell housing/engine clearance when they put that engine into your car.

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The only real issue I had with the back of the engine so far is when I took out the starter and had it rebuilt. the starter is VERY TIGHT. and was a b*tch to get in again. but it fit. 

 

I plan to take out engine with bell housing/clutch/starter all together. when I put it back in, I plan to have the transmission on already to make it a smooth install. 

 

the larger pistons would be kind of a "while I am there" thought. but I am not sure yet, I will know more when I tear engine down. 

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This weekend was fun, had some buddies over and we got the engine out of the Harlean. 

 

took a good 4 hours, the lower cross member that sits between the engine oil pan and clutch/flywheel is what makes it a pain in the butt, that will get fixed, I plan to grind off the side rivets and make them into bolts for easy removal and reinstall when we put engine back in.

 

I found the engine had blown a freeze plug from rust, and oil dripped out of a few areas. but now the engine is on a stand and I have confirmed with my instructor at the engine building class I will be taking at the local college that I can rebuild the engine in class (3 month class). 

 

so all in all it was a good productive weekend for Harlean.  stay tuned. 

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Sounds like you will have an almost new car after all of this.

Fun Stuff !!

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7 minutes ago, JACK M said:

Sounds like you will have an almost new car after all of this.

Fun Stuff !!

really close to new. all interior is good, the exterior paint/body are great. once the drive train and suspension are done, this car will be good to drive anywhere I think. 

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That engine class sounds like a good idea for someone that wants to do his own work but is unfamiliar.

You will be an engine guy after all that.

Believe me, you will have a lot of friends wanting you to do theirs.

Been there, Done that....:lol:

 

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1 hour ago, JACK M said:

That engine class sounds like a good idea for someone that wants to do his own work but is unfamiliar.

You will be an engine guy after all that.

Believe me, you will have a lot of friends wanting you to do theirs.

Been there, Done that....:lol:

 

I would be ok with doing 1 or 2 engines a year for people. my hope is to build my next engine, a Mopar 360 or larger for a rat rod project. 

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For me, assembling an engine is the easy part.

Getting all of the proper machining and parts can be time consuming, thus frustrating.

That 360 will be pretty straight forward as you can buy a kit thru Summit or Jegs.

Just pick the pistons, bearings, and cam etc. and the brown truck brings it. Do this after measuring and before any machining.

FYI, the 340 makes better performance than a 360 unless you get the higher compression pistons. 360s were truck engines.

 

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2 hours ago, JACK M said:

For me, assembling an engine is the easy part.

Getting all of the proper machining and parts can be time consuming, thus frustrating.

That 360 will be pretty straight forward as you can buy a kit thru Summit or Jegs.

Just pick the pistons, bearings, and cam etc. and the brown truck brings it. Do this after measuring and before any machining.

FYI, the 340 makes better performance than a 360 unless you get the higher compression pistons. 360s were truck engines.

 

the large 360 engines I get cheap from my family wrecking yard, I will do a lot more to that later. 

 

I recently spoke to George Asche regarding the 230 flat head 6 and was talking about adding a Cam and larger pistons. he stated that I would need to add headers and dual intake 

 

knowing that, I may just keep the 230 completley stock, maybe regrind the cam back to spec and seal the engine up for a quicker easier rebuild. 

 

my initial thought was bore 230 with .60 pistons, cam, and go all out, but after hearing George say it would have to go with the dual carb/header setup. knowing I want to keep the stock look of the engine, doing all that seems like both a waste of money and time vs HP Gain's of about 100hp. 

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On ‎8‎/‎13‎/‎2019 at 2:50 PM, Sactownog said:

the large 360 engines I get cheap from my family wrecking yard, I will do a lot more to that later. 

 

I recently spoke to George Asche regarding the 230 flat head 6 and was talking about adding a Cam and larger pistons. he stated that I would need to add headers and dual intake 

 

knowing that, I may just keep the 230 completley stock, maybe regrind the cam back to spec and seal the engine up for a quicker easier rebuild. 

 

my initial thought was bore 230 with .60 pistons, cam, and go all out, but after hearing George say it would have to go with the dual carb/header setup. knowing I want to keep the stock look of the engine, doing all that seems like both a waste of money and time vs HP Gain's of about 100hp. 

 

I doubt anyone would look down their nose at you if you went with the dual carbs and at least a split exhaust.

They did that all the time back in the day.

I am sure that there are kits for that still available.

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update:  sent the front engine bushing, rear bell housing bushings, and lower transmission cross member bushing to http://then-now-auto.com so they can be re vulcanized. that should cost about $180 + shipping. 

I also have the fly wheel, clutch, and pressure plate being rebuilt at a local shop in San Diego. 

 

 

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