Sactownog

1933 Dodge BARN FIND - HARLEAN'S COMEBACK

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The fuel filter is a Carter which could have been original equipment in the early 1950's.

 

Picture of Stromberg carb is too close to determine which style. Should be letters and numbers roughly 1/2 inch tall in the throttle body, example BXUV-3; but PROBABLY, the numbers you need will be stamped (recessed numbers, not raised numbers) on the flat surface of the top casting. Maybe a 3-??? example 3-111. This is what you will need to get a carb rebuilding kit.

 

Jon.

 

 

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I'm always surprised to see that even in the midst of the depression, how many cars had options like dual sidemounts  on them, unless it was added much later. This car appears to me that it might have been refinished at some point because of the white wheels.

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5 hours ago, jpage said:

I'm always surprised to see that even in the midst of the depression, how many cars had options like dual sidemounts  on them, unless it was added much later. This car appears to me that it might have been refinished at some point because of the white wheels.

This car came with Dual Side mounts. Was restored back in early 90s I believe, however all arts on the car are original from what we can tell other then the motor. 

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In regards to the oil bath air cleaner, if the oil is dirty replace with 50wt. That’s a real fine car you have there. A previous owner of my 36 had the same idea and dropped a 56 flathead into it. Everything from 36 was fitted to that block except the distributor, bolts right up to the original tranny. By the 50’s they were building a better engine, I’ve kept mine the same. Other than the casting numbers the only visible difference is head bolts instead of studs and nuts. Enjoy that sweet ride!

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Not wanting to rain on your parade, but I noticed the mention of a honeycomb radiator.

 

If its original, you may experience overheating next summer as they are almost impossible to clean out, perhaps now that its running you may want to get the engine up to temp and see if it remains cool.

 

Better to check it out now than be stuck somewhere in the heat of summer.

 

Lovely find by the way, envy overload ;)

Edited by hchris
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Well, after getting the car started yesterday, I now have replaced the leaky radiator hoses with new ones, got the car on jack stands and have all 4 tires off ready to do brake inspection.

Need to rebuild master cylinder, probably new rubber break lines, and wheel bearings I believe. 

I welcome all tips and tricks as well as opinions on things to do to advance this project. 

 

See attached pics. 

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Yes, please don`t second guess the brakes, do the lot.

 

You will need a special hub puller to get the rear brake drums off, search this forum for further info if you`re not familiar with them, there are plenty of posts on this topic.

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Just yanked off the Master cylinder, its a "Wagner FE543 Lockheed" I have found some remanufactured online. However that's the easy part. Car is now on jacks with tires/wheels off. Now I need to get the drums off.

Anyone have a recommendation where to get the correct Brake Drum puller for rear drums? 

 

Also, has anyone swapped to steel braided lines with the factory drums? Will it give me slightly better breakimg power? 

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The FE543 is the casting number, the part number is F544 which still might be available new from NAPA. It will have to be crossed over to their brand. It might still be available from Wagner if you can find a dealer. If you can give me measurements on the brake hoses, I might be able to give you part numbers that should work. I need to know length and thread sizes.

Edited by jpage (see edit history)

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Near as I can tell, 1933 is the first year where Chrysler's "badge engineering" really took hold with Dodge and that many of the mechanical parts on the Dodge are the same as for Plymouth. If you have a Dodge parts book to get the original Chrysler part numbers you can verify, but I suspect that the numbers I have for brake hoses, master cylinder, etc for Plymouth will be the same as you need for your Dodge. See http://www.ply33.com/Parts/numeric and more specifically http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group5#608678 and http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group5#5-R

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After hearing stories of Chinese replacement brake parts, I sent wheel cylinders and master cylinder to Hagens Auto Parts in Puyallup, Wa for rebuilds. The best part of this method is you’re getting back your original pieces, no b.s. no disappointments.

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4 hours ago, jpage said:

The FE543 is the casting number, the part number is F544 which still might be available new from NAPA. It will have to be crossed over to their brand. It might still be available from Wagner if you can find a dealer. If you can give me measurements on the brake hoses, I might be able to give you part numbers that should work. I need to know length and thread sizes.

From what I have found the master cylinder that is on my car now is an Fe 543 I am finding that there is another master cylinder that will work which is an m544 I don't know about the Chinese rumors of having issues but I don't see that it would affect the vehicle that much considering a brand new master cylinder part number m544 cost $100 is vs sending my old master cylinder to get refurbished for $140 for getting a brand new Wagner master cylinder part number Fe 543 which would cost me $275

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I have decided to spend the $310 on an American Made Master cylinder replacement. if anyone has a reason why I should not go that rout and go for the cheaper one, please feel free to share your opinion. 

 

I was thinking this vehicle is made in America and to keep it as American as possible, I should buy the American Master Cylinder. :)

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I would resleeve the master cylinder and wheel cylinders. You are risking nothing by rebuilding the original parts. What if these new parts don’t bolt right up? Then you’re in the return for refund mode and plenty of times that can be painful. I even had my clutch disc and pressure plate rebuilt like this because with antique parts you can’t be 100% sure that they will get it right. There is one major player who I will not name here that sells “close enough” products. I know, it happened to me, caveat emptor!

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Wagner products was and may still be a leading brake manufacture. All master cylinders that were made in this country had a casting number on the body. Like I stated, this number was not the part number. The F544 should cross to most manufactures of better quality parts.It is almost identical to your old unit and has the same bore size and outlet size, you can reuse the old top cover for more authenticity if you wanted. I would check with NAPA to see what's available or try to track down a company who still sells Wagner products, maybe a good HD brake company. What you are buying for the $310, if you are buying from one of the Mopar parts houses is probably old stock parts or contract parts so you'll pay top dollar for them. Top dollar doesn't guarantee quality. If you're worried about quality, and want to reuse the old cylinder, send it out to be rebuilt, you'll probably pay about the same amount. Made in America doesn't mean today what it used to as so many parts are built here from foreign made parts. Many of these parts are still available aftermarket from NAPA if you know want to look for or how to track this stuff down. Sometimes, many times, the parts that these specialty houses sell are not correct but because of the lack of any better substitutes they will try to sell a "fits all" part that may  be very disappointing. The advise given from many of the senior members on this forum usually will be the best advise you can get, as experience is the best teacher.

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4 minutes ago, jpage said:

Wagner products was and may still be a leading brake manufacture. All master cylinders that were made in this country had a casting number on the body. Like I stated, this number was not the part number. The F544 should cross to most manufactures of better quality parts.It is almost identical to your old unit and has the same bore size and outlet size, you can reuse the old top cover for more authenticity if you wanted. I would check with NAPA to see what's available or try to track down a company who still sells Wagner products, maybe a good HD brake company. What you are buying for the $310, if you are buying from one of the Mopar parts houses is probably old stock parts or contract parts so you'll pay top dollar for them. Top dollar doesn't guarantee quality. If you're worried about quality, and want to reuse the old cylinder, send it out to be rebuilt, you'll probably pay about the same amount. Made in America doesn't mean today what it used to as so many parts are built here from foreign made parts. Many of these parts are still available aftermarket from NAPA if you know want to look for or how to track this stuff down. Sometimes, many times, the parts that these specialty houses sell are not correct but because of the lack of any better substitutes they will try to sell a "fits all" part that may  be very disappointing. The advise given from many of the senior members on this forum usually will be the best advise you can get, as experience is the best teacher.

I am finding everybody on this form very helpful with information today after having this conversation on both I dodge Facebook forum and this forum here I found a friend who knows someone to have my original one rebuilt so I will be sending it out and it will only cost me $210 which include shipping and the core I will update with that situation as soon as I get the master cylinder back my next Hunt is for the hub for which seems to be a unique tool that's not normal at a auto store

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Not meant as a criticism, but that lower radiator hose may give you trouble.  Originally there were two short hoses with a metal u shaped pipe in the middle.  Your hose may be molded (can't  tell from the photo) but if it's not, you are putting a lot of stress on the lower radiator inlet.

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1 hour ago, Taylormade said:

Not meant as a criticism, but that lower radiator hose may give you trouble.  Originally there were two short hoses with a metal u shaped pipe in the middle.  Your hose may be molded (can't  tell from the photo) but if it's not, you are putting a lot of stress on the lower radiator inlet.

Its a new hose. (MOLDED)

 

I NEED HELP! FUEL PUMP HAS NUMBER 9926 on it and made in USA IM4. Anyone know what rebuild kit to use

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That pump doesn't look like the correct pump for your car but I could be wrong. I would check that before I did any rebuilding. Again, a new fuel pump that is very similar to the correct one may still be available from a good auto parts store or you could check one of the Mopar dealers but their products may be much more expensive. I wanted to use the original pump on my '36 so I purchased a new pump and traded the diaphrams. Probably not a viable course of action today. If I were you, I would spend some time and money and purchase any mechanical info books I could find like Motor's manuals or the  Master maintenance manual for your car as a guide to proper repair and maintenance. No use trying to muck around rebuilding parts that you are not familiar with. There are some companies that will rebuild pumps and I believe that you can purchase some kits. You might try Auto parts obsolete, Terrill Machine co. or google '33 dodge fuel pumps and see what comes up. Good hunting. 

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15 hours ago, jpage said:

. . . The F544 should cross to most manufactures of better quality parts.It is almost identical to your old unit and has the same bore size and outlet size, you can reuse the old top cover for more authenticity if you wanted. . .

 

I strongly suspect that the current master cylinder is not the original one. The original for a 33 Plymouth (and I think the Dodge used the same part number) looks different. The one pictured looks like the later replacement type.

 

3 hours ago, jpage said:

That pump doesn't look like the correct pump for your car but I could be wrong. . . google '33 dodge fuel pumps and see what comes up. Good hunting. 

Already established that the engine in his car is from a '53 Dodge and the pump on the engine could well be correct for that particular engine. I am not as familiar with the accessories (fuel pump, carburetor, distributor etc.) that were originally fitted to a '53 so I can't say for sure if the fuel pump is correct or not.

 

That said, a phone call the Then-And-Now Automotive (a.k.a. Antique Auto Parts Cellar) with the numbers on the fuel pump should get him a rebuilding kit made of materials that will stand up to modern gas.

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While you’re working on the brakes, carefully inspect the brake lines for trouble. My 36 had rust on both the fuel line and brake line where they pass under the radiator in front of the car. The fuel line split right there and I found the leak after I parked pointing downhill with the motor running. Otherwise, it wasn’t dripping. Glad It didn’t happen to be a brake leak, needless to say.

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I went to www.oldmoparts.com and they have the Master Cylinder for the brakes and the new fuel pump. I have them on order and will update when they get delivered. they said the fuel pump has the glass filter attached and that it will not be an issue having two glass fuel filters "one attached to fuel pump" and "one inline connected to carburetor" I may remove the inline and re-do the fuel line to the carb. 

 

I will be posting more pictures soon. I will be getting the Hub puller in the mail next week and will check the brake pads to see how good/bad they are. don't know if I will leave them if they have meat on them or replace just to have new material. will be replacing brake lines also, but am thinking I may have steel braided lines built by Parker just to have a bit of extra braking power. 

 

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I don't see how braided lines would give any more pressure to your brakes. They would last longer but are not correct for that car. If it were I and since that car is so nice, I would look for a '33 engine and parts to make it correct. My friend and I have located 3 '33 engines in the past week.

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